Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi everyone, 

     While helping to clean out my late grandfather's house, I found a US army issued Bulova Type A-11 watch, with center hacking seconds (10AK/CSH), evidently issued in 1946 while he was an army doctor in Japan. It has a number of issues, but none of them seem insurmountable. The seconds hand had come off, the hands were rusty at the center, the crystal was yellow and difficult to see through, there is clearly some rust under the dial between the hour wheel, cannon pinion, and probably minute wheel, and the balance staff is broken. I'm only an amateur, but I have the tools and experience to fix these problems. 

     Unfortunately, despite my confidence that I could fix it, I've been stopped in my tracks by a frustrating problem - I can't get the movement out of the watch. The case is (I believe) a 3-piece case, which is made by the Star Watch Case Co., with a threaded stainless steel coin-edge back, and a matching coin-edge bezel. I took some quick photos with my phone, but they aren't great. I found an identical one on the internet here: http://www.mybulova.com/watches/1946-military-issue-7150, with better pictures than mine. I am fairly sure that the bezel is pressed on, but I can't for the life of me get it off. There is no notch to fit a case opening knife or anything. I've tried my usual case opening knife, a razor blade, a pocket knife, etc, all to no avail. I even spent a while sharpening my cheap case opening knife to a good edge, but the only thing that I managed to open after that was my thumb when I slipped. I tried putting a little bit of penetrating lubricant along the edge, but that didn't help either. Does anyone have any good tips for getting this bezel off / movement removed? Is there any way to be sure that the bezel actually is pressed on?  

     I would appreciate any help. I would really like to fix this watch, but I'm close to giving up here. If anyone would like to see photographs of any details, I'll try to do that.

 

Thanks!

Posted

I had a similar problem with a rusted caseback. Couldn't figure out how to get it to open. In the end, I superglued a nut to the back, let the glue dry, and used a wrench to open it. Worked like a charm. The glue was removed from the caseback later by letting it sit in acetone overnight.

Posted

Interesting idea, Irishcain. I can't think of how I'd use it on the bezel, but I'll definitely keep that in mind the next time I have a caseback that won't come off. 

 

Thanks for the tip on the tool, Geo. I think I'll look around and see if I can source one of those in the US. I found a promising looking tool made by Horotec earlier, but it is $315. It looks like Horotec also sells one that looks like the one you referenced for around $85. I also wondered whether the bezel could screw on. It seems unlikely to me, but I had the same thought. I tried a sticky ball twisting it earlier, but that couldn't get it to twist at all. 

Posted

Victory at last! Thanks for the replies, everyone. It is a screwback case, but the front bezel is just pressed on. It fought me to the bitter end, but I finally got it. Geo's post on another thread (http://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/2138-open-tight-bezel-advice-needed) helped me a lot. I was starting with Stanley utility knife blades (which I was incorrectly referring to as razor blades). Once I went and got some single edged razor blades, with some gentle encouragement (read hitting the back of the blade with a screwdriver handle), I was able to get the razor in, and after working that around the edge, I was able to fit a Stanley blade in, and finally a caseback opening knife. It's worth noting that I took everything that I could off the movement before this (balance, train wheels, etc.), to minimize the chance that I would ruin it with the tapping on the razor blade. I still wouldn't recommend doing that to others.

 

When I finally opened it, there was some good news and bad news. The good news is that there is very little rust underneath the dial; it is mostly just surface rust on the canon pinion and hour wheel. The bad news is that the dial feet are broken off. It was probably my fault, too; I got the movement out onto a casing cushion, and then lifted the cushion to inspect, clumsily dropping the movement and dial to the ground in the process. Arg... the dangers of working while frustrated. 

Posted

Ok, upon further inspection, after removing the bezel by pulling it off, and cleaning the case in my ultrasonic cleaner, it turns out that the bezel does indeed screw on. I have no idea how I was able to pry it off without destroying the threads, but it does actually screw back on now. I also don't know how you would have turned that stuck on brass bezel without destroying it in the process, but oh well. 

  • Like 1
Posted

I'm glad you managed to remove the bezel, but I'm astounded that it came off that way when it was screwed on.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

post-52-0-12740300-1434161632_thumb.jpg

By the way, I just finished fixing this watch, and I made a simple band with some Horween leather that I had lying around. It would have come with a green canvas strap, but I like the look of the leather. Anyway, I just thought that I'd share. Thanks again for the replies.

  • Like 2
  • 5 years later...
Posted

Hello,

 

Thank you for this posting. I had same issue with the bezel of identical Bulova A-11. I wasn’t sure reading the post if it was pressed on or screwed. I tried razor blade as mentioned, and saw it was screwed. I finally succeed to unscrew the bezel using a method I saw for pocket watch using a glue gun and an old cap. I was a little bit afraid to make a complete disaster, but finally it worked, and I was able to remove the glue without any damage either to the bezel and the glass (made of plastic). For people interested I found a website describing the two Bulova model  https://mybulova.com/vintage-bulova-catalogs (see section 1945 Navigation watch (Hack) type A-11

The model with ‘coin edged’ back case and bezel is described as ‘Three piece case’ and required bezel to be removed to get the movement out of the case. So I was wondering what tool  should be normally used to unscrew this bezel ?

 

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • From what I see, the crystal is made of mineral glass and is secured to the bezel with a sealing ring. If you might want to replace the crystal without removing the bezel or the movement, I think it's possible, but risky. You have to suck out the old crystal without breaking it into tiny particles. I would not do that. If you remove the movement first you can press the crystal out and press a new one in without removing the bezel.
    • Hello Everyone, A short message to introduce myself. I'm Sebastiaan (50) from the Netherlands and have always been interested in watches. My two kids are at the end of their teens years and so I have more time to start a hobby.  Working on watches was something I always wanted to learn. So I recently started the watchfix repair course. Currently watching level 3. My short term goal is to be able to service the watches we (Myself, my wife and kids) own. I own a manual Omega Geneve from 1974, a small microbrand watch with a NH35 and a wittnauer bumper from 1940's. My wife owns an Oris, Seiko 5 with 7s26c and my son a seiko alpinist sarb017 and sports 5 with 4R36. So enough to learn on the short term..  Looking forward to talking to all of you and enjoying the watch hobby together. Greetings Sebastiaan
    • It works quite well. The only strange thing is that it loses 2/3 mn per day whereas the measurements indicate that it is fast by 1/2 mn. Maybe something wrong with the gear mechanism ...
    • Unfortunate…but you clearly have a Longines branded movement with a year 1936 serial consistent with the caliber. I checked the case maker of the last few Longines I worked on… …same as your watch, so certainly you have grounds to honestly describe your watch as a Longines cal 25.17 tank with unbranded dial…and given the modesty of the watch IMO the Longines authentication wouldn’t dramatically alter the value, if that’s what you are hoping…as nucejoe suggests the value will mostly be determined by how well it runs…
    • It's difficult to tell, but my guess is it just looks like it has a bezel. Once you have removed the movement, you should be able to tell. Either way, I think you should be able to press out the old crystal from the inside as long as you have a die that properly supports the area around the crystal. So, take it a part first and then assess if any additional tools or actions are needed. Let us know how you do!  
×
×
  • Create New...