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Posted

20220624_142657.thumb.jpg.c8f45b8bd239c9d5e62af841bbba819e.jpg

I just got this watch in the mail today. It's a Rado Emperor. I've never heard of a Rado Emperor before. The seller listed it as a 20 jewel, running watch which cannot wind or adjust time.

That intrigued me. The photo looked like a 2824/2836, but I've never seen a 20 jewel version. So I bidded for it and won at USD $51.

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The movement inside turned out to be a 2836-1. My initial diagnosis was the infamous keyless works but it turn out to be something even simpler.... a broken winding stem.

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The watch case is rather corroded. I was thinking of re-casing it in an after market China made case. Something like this...

SG$ 46.82  35%OFF | LARIMOKER 40mm Solid border Explorer 2 Look Watch Case sapphire glass fit NH35  ETA2824 2836 Miyota8205 8215 PT5000 DG2813 3804

Does anyone have experience with China made watch cases? Will the 2836 fit easily or will it require major rework?

TIA

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Posted (edited)
28 minutes ago, HectorLooi said:

Does anyone have experience with China made watch cases? Will the 2836 fit easily or will it require major rework?

I've used some Chinese cases and it varies. Some are brilliant, some are ok. But none of them that I tried were worse than what you've got now so it's certainly worth it to try. The ones I tried were for NH35 movements and fitment was ok, I haven't tried the 2836 types.

Edited by gbyleveldt
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Posted

I have recent experience with this.  Get a case for the DG or Miyota movement.  The stem height between the 2824 and 2836 is different.  I don't have the chart with stem heights handy but they are different.  The Chinese sellers are not always correct with their descriptions.  I guess that happens when you sell everything from watch parts to woman's apparel in your store.   The DG/Miyota stem height and the 2836 stem height are the same. 

I tried to put a 2824 in a case that had a Miyota 8215.  It didn't work.  The dial was a mm or so off the case when I inserted the stem.  I got a 2836 clone and everything lined up correctly. 

The Seiko NH3x and 2824 stem heights are so close it usually works.  My inspiration to pursue this was the various Aliexpress watches that come with either movement.  I found a movement ring on Ali that had the NH outer diameter and the 2824 inner diameter.  I found that I needed a wavy spring to make up the height difference.  Also found on Ali.  A large o-ring kept the movement in place until the wavy spring arrived.  I mention this because some cases are listed as Miyota/2824.  In my experience this is not correct.  NH/2824 (with different casing parts) is more correct. 

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Posted
5 hours ago, bklake said:

I have recent experience with this.  Get a case for the DG or Miyota movement.  The stem height between the 2824 and 2836 is different.  I don't have the chart with stem heights handy but they are different.  The Chinese sellers are not always correct with their descriptions.  I guess that happens when you sell everything from watch parts to woman's apparel in your store.   The DG/Miyota stem height and the 2836 stem height are the same. 

I tried to put a 2824 in a case that had a Miyota 8215.  It didn't work.  The dial was a mm or so off the case when I inserted the stem.  I got a 2836 clone and everything lined up correctly. 

The Seiko NH3x and 2824 stem heights are so close it usually works.  My inspiration to pursue this was the various Aliexpress watches that come with either movement.  I found a movement ring on Ali that had the NH outer diameter and the 2824 inner diameter.  I found that I needed a wavy spring to make up the height difference.  Also found on Ali.  A large o-ring kept the movement in place until the wavy spring arrived.  I mention this because some cases are listed as Miyota/2824.  In my experience this is not correct.  NH/2824 (with different casing parts) is more correct. 

Thanks @bklake, I'll order the case for a Miyota 8215 and get some metal and plastic movement rings from Cousins. 

Posted

I don't think Cousins has the movement ring.  I never saw it there.  The ring has the outer diameter of an NH35/36 including the plastic movement ring that is almost universally installed on them and the inner diameter of an ETA 28xx movement.  I got them in brass and plastic. 

I will look up my previous orders and link them  but I'm on vacation now.  Please give me some time.

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Posted

I used the case ring that was in the old watch for the switch from Miyota to 2836 clone.  You should have all the parts there to swap that movement into a case designed for the Miyota or DG movement.  Your Rado movement will not fit a case designed for the 2824.  Beware of cases that say they are for the Miyota/2824 movement.  Those two are not the same. 

The case rings and springs were for a 2824 I put in a case that was designed for the NH movement.  I also put a Ronda 515 movement in a case designed for an NH movement.  The Ronda shares sizes and stem height with the 2824. 

 

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Posted
21 minutes ago, HectorLooi said:

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I just finished casing up the movement into the new case last night. The case came with a plastic movement ring, so I used that.

Much nicer than than Rado voyager and diastar style cases reminiscent of the old 70s Tressa. I think there is a company link between the two actually. This reminds me of my little quartz Tissot. 👍

Posted
38 minutes ago, bklake said:

Looks nice and better protected.  Was I correct about which case?  Just want to know so I can revise my notes if I need to. 

SG$ 48.24  32%OFF | Miuksi 36mm/ 39mm stainless steel polished case sapphire glass fit NH35 NH36 ETA2824 2836 Miyota 8205 8215 DG2813 3804 movement
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mqLGclC

I got the 36mm case for the Miyota 8215.

The case is quite well finished. My only complain is that the spring in the screw down crown is really stiff. It hurts the fingers when pushing it back in and trying to screw it back in without cross threading the pendant tube.

Posted
16 minutes ago, HectorLooi said:

My only complain is that the spring in the screw down crown is really stiff.

Check the thread profile at the crest. It might benefit of careful smoothing with a fine file. 

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Posted

You may need to shorten the stem a tiny bit more.  The distance from the crown threads and tube threads may be too long.  The spring may be almost completely compressed by the time you get to engagement.

Posted
28 minutes ago, bklake said:

You may need to shorten the stem a tiny bit more.  The distance from the crown threads and tube threads may be too long.  The spring may be almost completely compressed by the time you get to engagement.

There is only about 0.1mm freeplay when I unscrew the crown,, so shortening the stem is out of the question. The spring is just too stiff.

I will probably get a new crown from Cousins or just develop calluses on my fingers. 🤣

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