Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

The pictures a bit fuzzy Roger, but remove the magic finger and pinion that it drives by removing the large bridge on top of the movement. Now get a good fitting screwdriver and turn the barrel slightly to release the click. Hold the click out of engagement with a piece of pegwood then let the screwdriver rotate while controlling it with your fingers until there is no tension left in the spring.

  • Like 2
Posted

Can't take the mainspring barrel apart ? Is it ment to be taken apart . Bad pictures i now but can't make it focus any more then that .

 

post-644-0-48820500-1434632736_thumb.jpgpost-644-0-72191800-1434632743_thumb.jpg

 

 

Posted

From memory Seiko barrels are a little different to the Swiss offerings but the following could be mistaken.

Look at the barrel edge on.

You should see a thin line that runs around the circumference of the barrel half way up its height; this is the join between the barrel and its lid.

using a single edged razor blade push the blade into this joint and work it around the barrel; the two halves should start to separate. 

Repeat with successively wider blades until the two halves can be separated by hand.

  • Like 1
Posted

To open the barrel, I usually position the barrel as in the first picture, on a hard surface. Open your tweezers wide and locate the barrel between the blades then press down hard on the tweezers and the barrel should pop open.

Posted

How easy everything is when you now how to do it . Thanks @Marc

That's why I enjoy this forum. Lots of technical help available, even sourcing material.

For newbies like me it reassuring.

Cheers!

Posted

To open the barrel, I usually position the barrel as in the first picture, on a hard surface. Open your tweezers wide and locate the barrel between the blades then press down hard on the tweezers and the barrel should pop open.

 

 

Not so easy with a Seiko barrel :)

 

Best to use a razor blade very carefully so as not to damage the teeth or burr the metal so a very sharp razor is required. 

Not sure what the official Seiko way of doing it is but this method has served me well over the years.

 

The reason is that the barrel cap is similar to the Valjoux 7750 but worse, the lip goes right down to the barrel teeth.

 

**Edit** Just notice that Marc has already provided this info - apologies to Marc 

Posted

Ah, that must be different to the last Seiko I worked on, as it opened as I described. I'll file this in the memory bank just in case I come across one like this. Thanks Mark! :)

Posted

Tend to do the same as Geo on the Seiko barrels, but I use cheapo brass tweezers.

 

One question though how do you let the spring down on a Smiths?:

post-80-0-59369300-1435441806_thumb.jpg

no screw to hold the tension.

Posted

Turn the crown slightly in the winding direction to allow you to hold the flat click spring back with back with a piece of pegwood. Now let the crown spin under control between your fingers to let the spring unwind.

  • Like 2
Posted

Cheers Geo. Now why-o-why-o-why didn't I think of that. Beachy Head here I c

                                                                                                                            o

                                                                                                                            m

                                                                                                                            e

                                                                                                                         

                                                                                                                            splat!

Posted

We all have these wee moments BL.

I like a nice Smiths and look forward to seeing the end result. :)

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • My drawings are not to scale, BTW. Here is the FreeCAD illustration of what was printed. It has been very helpful to hold the printed bezel in my hand to get a sense of scale. My plan over the next few days is to get some fender washers. They come in a nearly ideal thickness and and OD that is close to what I want. I will make a precision arbor to hold the washer in my lathe to turn the outside dimension.  Still pondering the best strategy for the inside cut.
    • Thanks Mark, I contacted the seller to see if they have any more info on separating the case.
    • Hi all, I've engaged here a couple of times over the years but never introduced myself. I've been restoring vintage timepieces for 15+ years and focus mostly on 1940s-1980s wristwatches. The farther gone it is, the more I enjoy bringing it back to life. Every now and then I come across something uncommon that I want to share that others my find interesting.  Or sometimes I come across a challenge that I haven't run into before, so I enjoy reaching out to others who I can learn from. Best, g2w
    • Very interesting! I answered the mail from Longines, explaining that I was a bit disappointed and that I wouldn't ask for a costly confirmation for a watch which isn't a high-end one ... and I received another email explaining that they couldn't not certify the authenticity of the watch, but they could specify that, according to the serial number on the caliber and to their handwritten records, the watch was produced in 1938. Great! @Mercurial I will take the measurements and will keep you informed. Thank you all. This forum is incredible 👍
    • Good stuff, thanks!!!  I'm going to save it and re-read your post and watch the video again.  I have a few follow-up question:  My understanding is that the spring vibrates or breathes between the the two regulator pins. When the pins are fully open the effective spring length is from the stud and theoretically no rate adjustment can be made by moving the regulator arm. As the pins are closed the spring gets closer to one side of the regulator block but doesn't touch a pin. You can still move the regulator carrier the entire terminal curve without upsetting the coils.  The rate can now be adjusted using the regulator because the effective spring length can be modified.  My question is: Does the hairspring bounce off and touch one of the pins as it breathes? Is that why the effective hairspring length is adjusted by moving the regulator?  And follow-up: How is amplitude affected by the spring between the pins? Does fully open pins, dial up position = max amplitude?  When spring adjusted to 1/2 width still = max amplitude? When I have crown down gravity is pulling the spring against one of the pins and I would expect rate to go up and amplitude to go down. Is that correct?
×
×
  • Create New...