Is There Any Way Of Identifying A 2836-2 From A 2824-2 From The Rear Of The Movement?
-
Recently Browsing
- No registered users viewing this page.
-
Topics
-
-
Posts
-
Unfortunate…but you clearly have a Longines branded movement with a year 1936 serial consistent with the caliber. I checked the case maker of the last few Longines I worked on… …same as your watch, so certainly you have grounds to honestly describe your watch as a Longines cal 25.17 tank with unbranded dial…and given the modesty of the watch IMO the Longines authentication wouldn’t dramatically alter the value, if that’s what you are hoping…as nucejoe suggests the value will mostly be determined by how well it runs… -
It's difficult to tell, but my guess is it just looks like it has a bezel. Once you have removed the movement, you should be able to tell. Either way, I think you should be able to press out the old crystal from the inside as long as you have a die that properly supports the area around the crystal. So, take it a part first and then assess if any additional tools or actions are needed. Let us know how you do! -
That was observant! I completely missed that, and it explains everything. Thank you! That's great! Admittedly, there's a big difference between 4 years and, in my case, 7.5 years to be more precise — but still. Also, I was early in using my stereo microscope during oiling and extremely careful not to over-oil. I actually think — even if it sounds unlikely — that I tend to under-oil.
-
By watchweasol · Posted
I use brake cleaner for cleaning. And once dried rinse in IPA works ok for me. Five litres of break3 cleaner, readily available is around £15 got to keep it air tight though. -
Bad news: Longines doesn't provide this service free of charge any longer. I have to ask for an extract from the archives or a certificate of authenticity, but I'm afraid it's not worth the cost for this watch. Too bad 🥴
-
Recommended Posts