Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi

I bet I'm not the only one here who struggles with which type of optical equipment to use ;). When I need to look/work in detail it's not so much a problem as I either use a microscope I already had, or use a 20x eyeglass on a holder and put my head on the desk. It's more for general inspection/day to day work, when just a bit of extra help is needed. I use clip on watchmakers loupes, which never seem to stay in place. I use a visor, which makes my head sweat and either pinches or falls down. I use eyeglasses with a holder, and I always seem to have to move my head to see. I use powerful reading glasses but keep needing to take them on and off. My next experiment will be to buy some cheap Chinese binocular loupes and try them.

One item I bought recently and have grown to quite like is a desktop magnifier (photo below). This came with a clamp and a stand, and I have been using it with the stand at the back of my desk with the magnifier coming down vertically in front of me. It is big enough that I can see everything in front of me through it. and small enough that I can fit both arms around it to work. I can also push it out of the way quite easily. Of course the optics aren't all that great, it is just a plastic magnifier and can't be used to see things in detail, I just use it for general 2-3x magnification. Also you need to have a high desk to use it like this as you need to look straight through it, looking slightly downwards gives a distorted view. However for about £15 I'm quite pleased with it, and will continue to use it. It seems to me that this is an area that you have to experiment and find what you are comfortable with, and that different people will use different methods. I just thought I'd share this one.

Stephen

 

 

post-373-0-10325300-1435564692_thumb.jpg

Posted

Hi Stephen,

 

I believe the best optics I've read about are the ones Lawson uses...but they are expensive!

 

Cheers,

 

Bob

Posted

A word of caution on the cheap binocular loupes.

 

I tried a set and found them to be extremely difficult to use. You have to adjust for inter-pupilary distance and then change the sight angles so each eye converged at a focus distance. Every time I made one adjustment another was required. They came mounted on safety specs so I ditched the loupes and used a clip on pair of magnifiers.

 

With these I can see most detail work and flip them up for distance vision.

 

For close-up I use a loupe on a head spring and for really close up I have an old lab microscope from eBay. I got a boom for it and use it for oiling etc.

 

I'll post some pics after dinner, I have to cook some nice fillets of rock ling while Ms Jim does the veggies.

  • Like 2
Posted

Here we go, I hope it's all self explanatory and can help you decide on what's best for you.

 

Any questions just fire away.

 

Cheers

 

Jim

 

post-1141-0-69911200-1435661970_thumb.jp

 

post-1141-0-07348700-1435662051_thumb.jp

 

  • Like 6
Posted

Apart from the microscope, your setup is pretty close to mine.

Do you think all that magnification could fins a wee avatar? ;)

Posted

Apart from the microscope, your setup is pretty close to mine.

Do you think all that magnification could fins a wee avatar? ;)

 

Uh Oh!

 

I thought only ΩForums had Avatar Police  ;)

 

I shall see what I can do Geo.

Posted

Being a novice to this hobby, I'm not sure I can add anything to this conversation that the experts haven't already suggested. However, I personally use an optivisor for most stuff & a stereo microscope for inspection & oiling.

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

Posted

As mentioned above, another vote for the Optivisor, I have a few different lens too, but find the best sense for general purpose is No'3, which gives plenty of working distance, and enough magnification for working, plus it has a 3.5% loupe which flips down and away easily.

 

Don't go for those cheap Chinese ones though, they are heavy, and very uncomfortable.  Ask me how I know :)

 

14157586147_0e8a34bbba_z.jpgUntitled by Micky Aldridge, on Flickr

  • Like 1
Posted

Could probably have got away with same when I was a little younger oldhippy. Find that I need a little more help these days.

Posted

Could probably have got away with same when I was a little younger oldhippy. Find that I need a little more help these days.

I know what you mean. My site is none to good what with being diabetic and having to take insulin. 

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Ok, as per pictures I have a smiths rim set and wind on the bench, swimming in oil but all sorted. The fault I have is the mainspring bridle has lost its tab/notch/hook, like a hebdomas pocket watch the mainspring is fitted to a bridal in the barrel which slides around on full wind onto 4 notches in the barrel wall, thus stopping damage to the mainspring by over enthusiastic winding. So my questiion is this, what is the best way to create another hook in the bridal, my thoughts are along the same lines as making a new hole in the mainspring end, annealing etc, but what and how to make the hook?? I have a pair of barrel hook pliers that work great in soft brass but won’t even scratch the bridal, what I don’t want to do is whack a hole into it and not have a hook. the pictures are of the bridal ( broken) and a hebdomas ( complete ) incase you are wondering what I’m on about. And a few of the serivce. Thanks for any advise.
    • Decided to give the case and bracelet a good cleaning and my first shot at polishing/brushing. Went with the Cape Cod polishing cloth and gray scotch brite method.  Before First; Then After; Then comparing to some original links from when the watch was new to now.       
    • What is this (left of the red line)? hairspring? Frank
    • It's either bent or hung up on something or both. The hexane won't hurt it, and hanging from a balance tack indefinitely won't hurt it.   If the spring is glued to the stud there's a chance that the glue was softened and the outer coil stuck to the stud. Haven't seen that happen, but I suppose it could. Don't know if hexane affects the glue used either.
    • Hello all. some help required here from the community please. I serviced this movement, which was running reasonably well, but the balance spring which was running healthily before I started, after cleaning in hexane for 30 secs, is all bunched up at the stud. I did store the balalance on a tack thereafter for a day.   could the spring be strained under gravity? I demagnetised of course, and the balance is squeaky clean. some help would be much appreciated. Thanks, Tony G    
×
×
  • Create New...