Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

You need to remove the pin that I can see red circle, there might be another on the opposite side. Then push the whole thing out. You should see screws that you need to unscrew, the drum will come away which will leave you with the dial and movement.  You will need to remove the hands then you can remove the movement, some movements will be held by pins some are held in place by folded or twisted tabs. 

The spring by its looks doesn't have much power on it. With the movement free you should be able to see the click and its spring, put the key on and hold the key as if you are going to wind it and with a screwdriver move the click away from the ratchet and let the spring down. From what I see you have parts that are not in place these are the cup screw that holds the balance and it also holds the regulator which is on the movement.  

D81CB29C-282F-4AE1-80E1-647FB8F12763.thumb.jpeg.48737dedf7008f5a64e19e45371bf154.jpg

Edited by oldhippy
Posted

Don't the screws have decent slots in there heads for a good screwdriver? You could try WD40.  The only other way I can think of is to drill them out. 

Posted

ive had one like this, 

you need to use a drift to tap the drum out, some are so tight its a joke, the 3 screws you have i believe are there to hold the movement onto the drum, you will be able to access them once the drum is removed. 

My advise would be to mark the drum and the case so you put it back in the same orientation as it cam out due to the tightness of removal

  • Like 1
Posted

Hi sometimes with these barrel/drum clocks the whole drum has to be removed and as transporter said they have to be drifted out carefully. After removing the fixing pin in the case side , mark the position of the drum and then use a wood drift to push out the drum. It could be corrosion between the wood and the brass liner/drum that’s holding it. When out you can gain access to the movement screws around the bezel and remove the drum sleeve from the clock, you will then see how to let down the main spring

  • Like 1

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Why now Mark ?  And which contact has brought you here ? People have been trying for bloody months to get hold of you for reassurance. Shite way to run a forum tbh. Seven months since you last visited. I think we all need to have a long discussion with you about what happens if anything happens to you. Please look forward to lots of questions. 
    • Hi guys. @VWatchie Those images are self hosted (not hosted on this server). Do a look at the page source and you will see this. I’m afraid, I can’t have control or backup images not hosted on this server. ( They seem to be served from here: https://qehvsw.bn.files.1drv.com/) This server is backed up fully every night and the database is backed up and versioned every hour, all stored off site on Amazon S1 platform. It’s hard for us to lose data. Ive got a huge overhead of space on this particular server the site is served from so no worries there 🙂 Sorry all for lack of response so far, I have been extremely busy and am embarrassed to say that priorities had to be set in place for a while.  Be assured that i’ve got constant monitoring and alerts should the site be in an extended problematic state (down etc) and work on these issues if they arise.
    • Web sites are cheap. Message board are easy. Hosting both is less than 100 usd a year and small advertising would cover most of that.  In the discord group we did some 15 min poc and threw up a couple of different message boards on a domain i host.   The real value is the data / information / hive mind While I'm a rank amateur in watch repair the information and assistance on this board is invaluable. The members on here are friendly, entertaining and a wealth of knowledge This is what needs to be preserved  --Jeff
    • The post below contains the link. If you don't already have a discord account it will take you to the registration screen.  Registration is free.   https://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/31653-mark/?do=findComment&comment=279066
    • HWGIKE#57 Valex FEF 190 15 jewels Swiss lever full service and repair This one was waiting for a balance staff replacement in my cabinet parts and case cleaned up with a new balance staff and a 4th wheel as the original 4th wheel had a broken pivot for the off center second hand. I never attempted a balance staff replacement before however I received a Bergeon Molfres (i was hunting it for about 2 years) and with the help of it I managed to remove the old staff and riveted the new one in. It also received a new MS, crystal and the hole for the MS arbor was also tightened. With the new MS now it has an acceptable performance meaning that the amplitude goes up to 280 fully wound, has an acceptable beat error and I have the two nice lines but only dial up, dial down is not as nice and I could not figure out as why. I have the two lines but the amplitude is dropping to around 230 and the lines are a bit hairy. Both dial up and dial down the lines just go up and down without seemingly any pattern. I cleaned the movement two times, and then a 3rd time pegged out the main plate and train bridge holes but made no change. Both the HS collet and the roller table was too lose on the new staff... I did not count how many times I took the balance cock off to sort out the HS collet, the roller table and the beat error, somebody before me also shortened the HS by pushing it out a bit and it seems every time somebody is messing with the end of the HS the protruding bit is most of the time twisted bent etc. This one was probably one of the most challenging repair and service. I might take the new MS out and clean it lubricate it as I just pushed the new one in to the barrel from the retaining ring. Plus started to re-read the theory of the escapement and how to analyse the graph on the timing machine: Greiner Chronografic Record manual. I am also thinking to put the watch on a 24 hour long run with the eTimer SW it once helped me to figure out what was wrong with a watch. There is an interesting part of the Greiner record manual talking about the pallets and the end shake of the balance and pallet staff. Maybe this is my issue? Who could that possibly identify? After a few years now I am still without a clue how could watchmakers make parts I can only see with my microscope or how could/can they carry out complicated services impossible to do.. real magic..... .... ..... before I sent this post while the pics were uploading I had an idea, i was browsing the possible outcomes on the timing machine I had one for magnetism..... so I demagnetized the movement and it is not hairy now.... two really nice lines 0.2 ms beat error still a bit wavy, but a lot lot better..... argh....  
×
×
  • Create New...