Jump to content

Carriage Clock help


tyl

Recommended Posts

The winder to wind up the movement unscrews and the hand set just pulls off. It would have been helpful to others to have shown the back of the clock members would have been able to see what you are referring to.

These movements tend to wear because the spring is so powerful, the great wheel next to the barrel is normally the problem the hole wears and the pivot wears too. The other main problem is the balance pivots they become blunt and need to be re-pointed in a lathe in order for the balance wheel to have a good action.  

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you for the quick response.   The clock winds counterclockwise.  Therefore you are saying that the winder has reverse threads?  That is I wind it clockwise to unscrew the winder?  I tried that and it is so tight that I was afraid I might break the winder (tried this prior to your kind response).  Should I put some WD40 on the winder and try again?

 

Pic of the rear is attached.

 

Again, appreciate your response.

Schatz carriage clock rear.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi  If it remains tight try warming the key head with a soldering Iron, if it has been glued or loctited on it will help to release the glue. keep trying after each application.  If it winds counter clockwise the key should unscrew clockwise. As OldHippy said they are not normally that tight so be careful.   cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good info.  Interesting point - the clock is running now after adjusting the fast/slow pointer on the front of the clock.  However it runs a bit fast.  By experimentation I have found that the clock will not run if I move the pointer either way - toward faster or toward slower.  So I have to set it back about 5 minutes each morning.  I realize that is a lot of adjustment but at least it runs now.  

 

Wife says to leave well enough alone.  I am guessing that the brass plate hole (holding the speed adjustment spindle) is no longer perfectly round and that a sweet spot now exists where the clock runs but does not keep time perfectly.  And cannot be repaired by a novice.

 

Again thanks for your help; much appreciated.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thursday - 8AM.  The clock has run for two days now but gains 10 minutes over a 12 hour period.  Have not removed it from the case to oil.  Reluctant to adjust the pointer to make it run slower; the last time I did this the clock stopped running (took two days adjusting the pointer to get it to run again).  Will continue to monitor and report.  

 

 

Good info.  Interesting point - the clock is running now after adjusting the fast/slow pointer on the front of the clock.  However it runs a bit fast.  By experimentation I have found that the clock will not run if I move the pointer either way - toward faster or toward slower.  So I have to set it back about 5 minutes each morning.  I realize that is a lot of adjustment but at least it runs now.  

 

Wife says to leave well enough alone.  I am guessing that the brass plate hole (holding the speed adjustment spindle) is no longer perfectly round and that a sweet spot now exists where the clock runs but does not keep time perfectly.  And cannot be repaired by a novice.

 

Again thanks for your help; much appreciated.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thursday -noon.   Good advice.

 

Thx.

 

 

Thursday - 8AM.  The clock has run for two days now but gains 10 minutes over a 12 hour period.  Have not removed it from the case to oil.  Reluctant to adjust the pointer to make it run slower; the last time I did this the clock stopped running (took two days adjusting the pointer to get it to run again).  Will continue to monitor and report.  

 

 

Good info.  Interesting point - the clock is running now after adjusting the fast/slow pointer on the front of the clock.  However it runs a bit fast.  By experimentation I have found that the clock will not run if I move the pointer either way - toward faster or toward slower.  So I have to set it back about 5 minutes each morning.  I realize that is a lot of adjustment but at least it runs now.  

 

Wife says to leave well enough alone.  I am guessing that the brass plate hole (holding the speed adjustment spindle) is no longer perfectly round and that a sweet spot now exists where the clock runs but does not keep time perfectly.  And cannot be repaired by a novice.

 

Again thanks for your help; much appreciated.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

The clock was removed and inspected.  None of the apertures in the back brass plate shows any dirt like I have seen in online videos.  I lightly oiled each from the back and did not remove the faceplate fearing I could not get it back together and working.  After a few days of constant running, I moved the timing adjuster (regulator?) to the right or toward the minus sign to make it run slower.  

Bad idea.  It stopped running immediately although I had only moved the adjuster about three-eights inch to the right or toward the minus sign.  Over two days I moved it slowly back to the left in very small increments until it started to run again.  It is running again with the adjuster approximately one-eight inch past (to the right of)  the high noon mark and it gains about ten minutes per day.  Video attached shows it running and the adjuster should be clearly seen (it pivots from the center of the spring fed wheel.

Why will it not run adjusted toward slowing the mechanism?  Any idea would be appreciated.  

And I appreciate your comments.  

Oh no, looks like this forum may not accept a video.  Still trying.  Not possible, regrets.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It sounds to me that it is possible the hairspring isn't free in the regulator and when you move it it is infringing the hairspring.  Check that the hairspring is free in the regulator no mater where the regulator is, hairspring should move freely from side to side no mater what position, it also has to be flat so it isn't fouling the balance wheel or the balance cock. 

Try that first and let me know.   

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The clock was removed and inspected.  None of the apertures in the back brass plate shows any dirt like I have seen in online videos.  I lightly oiled each from the back and did not remove the faceplate fearing I could not get it back together and working.  After a few days of constant running, I moved the timing adjuster (regulator?) to the right or toward the minus sign to make it run slower.  

Bad idea.  It stopped running immediately although I had only moved the adjuster about three-eights inch to the right or toward the minus sign.  Over two days I moved it slowly back to the left in very small increments until it started to run again.  It is running again with the adjuster approximately one-eight inch past (to the right of)  the high noon mark and it gains about ten minutes per day.  Video attached shows it running and the adjuster should be clearly seen (it pivots from the center of the spring fed wheel.

Why will it not run adjusted toward slowing the mechanism?  Any idea would be appreciated.  

And I appreciate your comments.  

Oh no, looks like this forum may not accept a video.  Still trying.  Not possible, regrets.

Thank you.  Those are new terms and I need to look up the meaning.  Will report back.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Update.  It is running well but gains five minutes per day.  Still slowly trying to adjust it slower; each time it stops running and I have to go back.  Still trying  but happy to see it run again.  I feel like I brought it back to life after who knows how much long it has been inactive.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

The hairspring is perfectly flat and seems to be free from any impediment.  The clock is still gaining some 10-15 minutes per day.  I am adjusting it toward the minus sign to make it run slower and am just beginning to make a record each day.  Is it OK to move the regulator say 45 degrees or even 90 degrees to the right (toward the minus sign)? Or should I stop at say 45 degrees from top dead center?  Thx.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Can't you let the hairspring out? Clocks with this type of regulator including all carriage type  it is common practice that the regulator is set near or on the middle. There is a reason why it is gaining so much but if you find it, what you are saying is your only way then go ahead but it will look odd to the eye. Has it a good action, as this can cause problems, check the balance pivots, they should be as sharp as a new pencil, how about the two jewels they must be clean are they cracked or chipped.    

Edited by oldhippy
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

With the balance stationary, when you move the regulator left or right, it should be able to travel the whole length without touching the hairspring. If you observe the hairspring moving when you move the regulator, the hairspring is distorted. 

Check that first before we move on.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Attaching pic w arrows to make sure I am using the proper naming conventions.  Hairspring top arrow and regulator bottom arrow.  Will check later to make sure the hairspring is not moving at all when I adjust the regulator; ie not touching the regulator.

Carriage clock w arrows.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Great; will take a look.  Thx.

 

 

 

Tested it this AM.  When I move the regulator toward the minus sign, I can see the hairspring coil and become tighter.  When moved toward the plus sign, the hairspring gets noticeably bigger and more spread out.  Obviously the regulator is tied to the end of the hairspring and pulls it tighter or releases; therefore I am not sure how to move the regulator without moving the hairspring.

With the regulator about 30 degrees toward the minus, it gained eight minutes time in twenty four hours.

Did I misread an earlier post asking if I let the hairspring out?  I think letting it out; ie spread out and less coiled would make the clock run faster.

Is this not correct?  If not, I have been making the adjustment in the wrong direction.

Apparently there is a reply by Willow which I cannot find; received an email notice.  Having a hard time navigating this website.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Your regulator sounds like it might be damaged. There should be a small gap between the regulator for the hairspring to lie in. It should not be touching or pinching the hair spring at rest. When the regulator is moved left or right, the regulator should be able slide freely along the hairspring, thus the hairspring should not move at all.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • The post below contains the link. If you don't already have a discord account it will take you to the registration screen.  Registration is free.   https://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/31653-mark/?do=findComment&comment=279066
    • HWGIKE#57 Valex FEF 190 15 jewels Swiss lever full service and repair This one was waiting for a balance staff replacement in my cabinet parts and case cleaned up with a new balance staff and a 4th wheel as the original 4th wheel had a broken pivot for the off center second hand. I never attempted a balance staff replacement before however I received a Bergeon Molfres (i was hunting it for about 2 years) and with the help of it I managed to remove the old staff and riveted the new one in. It also received a new MS, crystal and the hole for the MS arbor was also tightened. With the new MS now it has an acceptable performance meaning that the amplitude goes up to 280 fully wound, has an acceptable beat error and I have the two nice lines but only dial up, dial down is not as nice and I could not figure out as why. I have the two lines but the amplitude is dropping to around 230 and the lines are a bit hairy. Both dial up and dial down the lines just go up and down without seemingly any pattern. I cleaned the movement two times, and then a 3rd time pegged out the main plate and train bridge holes but made no change. Both the HS collet and the roller table was too lose on the new staff... I did not count how many times I took the balance cock off to sort out the HS collet, the roller table and the beat error, somebody before me also shortened the HS by pushing it out a bit and it seems every time somebody is messing with the end of the HS the protruding bit is most of the time twisted bent etc. This one was probably one of the most challenging repair and service. I might take the new MS out and clean it lubricate it as I just pushed the new one in to the barrel from the retaining ring. Plus started to re-read the theory of the escapement and how to analyse the graph on the timing machine: Greiner Chronografic Record manual. I am also thinking to put the watch on a 24 hour long run with the eTimer SW it once helped me to figure out what was wrong with a watch. There is an interesting part of the Greiner record manual talking about the pallets and the end shake of the balance and pallet staff. Maybe this is my issue? Who could that possibly identify? After a few years now I am still without a clue how could watchmakers make parts I can only see with my microscope or how could/can they carry out complicated services impossible to do.. real magic..... .... ..... before I sent this post while the pics were uploading I had an idea, i was browsing the possible outcomes on the timing machine I had one for magnetism..... so I demagnetized the movement and it is not hairy now.... two really nice lines 0.2 ms beat error still a bit wavy, but a lot lot better..... argh....  
    • Hi there, welcome here.  
    • yes the advertising revenue should generate money. The question is how much money? Then as far as the cost of the website goes that's relatively easy to determine? all you would have to do to grasp costs and profitability would be to go to the link below and you can actually get a website for free try it out for free I believe you get no advertising initially. They also talk about that they'll help you out they have marketing tools and some sort of paid subscription or something. So I guess were shopping for a whatever just ask them what would a maybe could use this one as an example in other words it's going to look basically identical to this is going to have advertising a paid subscriptions what's it going to cost? After all they want to sell or give us a message board like this they should bill answer the questions as they're the people who did the software for this. Yes they really said you can have a free discussion group at least to start. https://invisioncommunity.com/ I was curious about the monthly supporter thing where exactly do we find that on this message board? A quick search I'm not finding it so obviously I'm not looking in the right place?
    • Help me out here, but with all the advertising on this site (which I don't mind) wouldn't it pay for itself or even make money for the owner ???
×
×
  • Create New...