Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I reprised my efforts to service an Elgin 18s Grade 207 full plate PW and successfully assembled it. I used the following method to align the train.

As advised in one of Peter Grande's videos I placed the top plate upside down on to a casing pad and placed all the wheels and pallet fork with their top pivots down onto the plate. The following steps he leaves out and I had to devise.

The issue with a full plate assembly is that the pallet fork is under the same bridge as the train, which makes it difficult to test the train before placing the pallet fork, but you need to do this. So, this is how I proceeded.

After placing all components upside-down onto the top plate, I positioned the mainplate on top using the center wheel post and the sub seconds pivot as alignment aids. I also used the four plate post as alignment aids. I gently positioned the mainplate in place and pinched the mainplate and bottom of the casing pad that the top plate is resting on between my gloved fingers and picked it up. I then aligned the train starting from the third wheel side working toward the escape wheel but ignoring the pallet fork. Once I had the train aligned and spinning free, still pinched between my fingers, I gently positioned the casing pad to expose the bridge screw hole on the top plate on the third wheel side and very very lightly screwed in this screw just so it "kissed" the top plate to prevent this side of the plate from jumping. I then turned my attention to the pallet fork side. There is still a gap on this side and plenty of room to wiggle the pallet fork in place. Once the pallet fork is in place you should see the plate post sitting flush to the top plate. Very very lightly attach the second bridge screw to the top plate on the pallet fork side, give the pallet fork a little wiggle to make sure its teeth are engaging the escape wheel then give all the pivots a good inspection under a magnification and when satisfied, tighten the two screws. 

I hope this helps anyone who is struggling with aligning a full plate. Essentially, start at the third wheel (hopefully the center wheel didn't jump) and work your way to the escape wheel. When the train is spinning free, lightly attach the bridge screw on the third wheel side to hold all lightly in place and then work on the pallet fork. It's easier than hoping all will align in one shot, which it won't!

Posted

Yes 18 size American full plate watches can be a pain.  Then there's another way to do this which is use a handy little tool made out of a piece of mainspring to hold the pallet fork to the top plate. Then with the pallet fork safely in where it's supposed to be the rest of the plates assembled you can bring the plate down with the pallet fork and get it all together.

So basically just a piece of old mainspring folded in half and heat up the fold so it softens and then it forms this nice shape of a little spring for holding things in place. Pierre really fancy can cut a slit at the end to go over the arbor the pallet fork otherwise you can just slip but over the pallet fork itself..

18 size full plate pallet fork holder 5.JPG

18 size full plate pallet fork holder 3.JPG

18 size full plate pallet fork holder 2.JPG

18 size full plate pallet fork holder 1.JPG

  • Like 5

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hi guys. @VWatchie Those images are self hosted (not hosted on this server). Do a look at the page source and you will see this. I’m afraid, I can’t have control or backup images not hosted on this server. ( They seem to be served from here: https://qehvsw.bn.files.1drv.com/) This server is backed up fully every night and the database is backed up and versioned every hour, all stored off site on Amazon S1 platform. It’s hard for us to lose data. Ive got a huge overhead of space on this particular server the site is served from so no worries there 🙂 Sorry all for lack of response so far, I have been extremely busy and am embarrassed to say that priorities had to be set in place for a while.  Be assured that i’ve got constant monitoring and alerts should the site be in an extended problematic state (down etc) and work on these issues if they arise.
    • Web sites are cheap. Message board are easy. Hosting both is less than 100 usd a year and small advertising would cover most of that.  In the discord group we did some 15 min poc and threw up a couple of different message boards on a domain i host.   The real value is the data / information / hive mind While I'm a rank amateur in watch repair the information and assistance on this board is invaluable. The members on here are friendly, entertaining and a wealth of knowledge This is what needs to be preserved  --Jeff
    • The post below contains the link. If you don't already have a discord account it will take you to the registration screen.  Registration is free.   https://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/31653-mark/?do=findComment&comment=279066
    • HWGIKE#57 Valex FEF 190 15 jewels Swiss lever full service and repair This one was waiting for a balance staff replacement in my cabinet parts and case cleaned up with a new balance staff and a 4th wheel as the original 4th wheel had a broken pivot for the off center second hand. I never attempted a balance staff replacement before however I received a Bergeon Molfres (i was hunting it for about 2 years) and with the help of it I managed to remove the old staff and riveted the new one in. It also received a new MS, crystal and the hole for the MS arbor was also tightened. With the new MS now it has an acceptable performance meaning that the amplitude goes up to 280 fully wound, has an acceptable beat error and I have the two nice lines but only dial up, dial down is not as nice and I could not figure out as why. I have the two lines but the amplitude is dropping to around 230 and the lines are a bit hairy. Both dial up and dial down the lines just go up and down without seemingly any pattern. I cleaned the movement two times, and then a 3rd time pegged out the main plate and train bridge holes but made no change. Both the HS collet and the roller table was too lose on the new staff... I did not count how many times I took the balance cock off to sort out the HS collet, the roller table and the beat error, somebody before me also shortened the HS by pushing it out a bit and it seems every time somebody is messing with the end of the HS the protruding bit is most of the time twisted bent etc. This one was probably one of the most challenging repair and service. I might take the new MS out and clean it lubricate it as I just pushed the new one in to the barrel from the retaining ring. Plus started to re-read the theory of the escapement and how to analyse the graph on the timing machine: Greiner Chronografic Record manual. I am also thinking to put the watch on a 24 hour long run with the eTimer SW it once helped me to figure out what was wrong with a watch. There is an interesting part of the Greiner record manual talking about the pallets and the end shake of the balance and pallet staff. Maybe this is my issue? Who could that possibly identify? After a few years now I am still without a clue how could watchmakers make parts I can only see with my microscope or how could/can they carry out complicated services impossible to do.. real magic..... .... ..... before I sent this post while the pics were uploading I had an idea, i was browsing the possible outcomes on the timing machine I had one for magnetism..... so I demagnetized the movement and it is not hairy now.... two really nice lines 0.2 ms beat error still a bit wavy, but a lot lot better..... argh....  
    • Hi there, welcome here.  
×
×
  • Create New...