Jump to content

Rust Disolver/Fluid for Watch Parts

Jonno65
 Share

Recommended Posts

Jonno65 Watch Enthusiast

Jonno65

Posted
Posted

Hi… 

I saw on a watch restoration video a product used to disolve or break down rust  on small parts (usually the stem area) but I can’t find the video or remember the name of the product.

Can someone recommend one?

 

 

Jonno65 Watch Enthusiast

Jonno65

Posted
  • Author
Posted

UPDATE:

I decided to go with a  rust deoxidiser from an auto store. Smallest I could get was 250ml which is a lot when applying with an oiler! But its bubbling away now on the stem..  Fingers crossed.

Cheers

Jon

Jonno65 Watch Enthusiast

Jonno65

Posted
  • Author
Posted
50 minutes ago, Nucejoe said:

Happy bubbling Jon. 

Will you share the name/ brand of this rust deoxidiser? 

TIA

 

Hi Joe(?)

It's just a generic brand called Motospray Dexoidiser and Rust Remover. Might well be something else where you are - I'm in Perth Western Australia (a watchmaker's wilderness). 

I have applied a few times now with an oiler but yet to see if successful..  I will let you know.. Pic attached.

Jon

IMG_5385.jpg

  • Thanks 1
Jonno65 Watch Enthusiast

Jonno65

Posted
  • Author
Posted

It worked! Wheel fell off in Ultrasonic cleaner. There is a cannon pinion underneath but is too small of a diameter for my pinion remover tool. 😞 

Nucejoe Distinguished Member

Nucejoe

Posted
Posted
53 minutes ago, Jonno65 said:

It worked! Wheel fell off in Ultrasonic cleaner. There is a cannon pinion underneath but is too small of a diameter for my pinion remover tool. 😞 

Thanks Jon,   what active ingredient is in this deoxidiser? 

To remove the canon pinion , 

A fine  pin vice stem holder is likely to grab the canon pinion, should  pull streight up.

Rgds

 

 

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Neverenoughwatches Distinguished Member

Neverenoughwatches

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, Jonno65 said:

It worked! Wheel fell off in Ultrasonic cleaner. There is a cannon pinion underneath but is too small of a diameter for my pinion remover tool. 😞 

I'd be curious to know what the ingredients are please Jonno. The problem with most rust removers is they also like to eat away at the unrusted ferrous metal. Strong concentrations of phosphoric acid will do this aggressively. I used a product once called rustins rust remover it completely dissolved an escape wheel in 4 hours and left a small black blob in its place 😪. I should have looked up the data sheet on it first, it contains around 45 % phosphoric  acid. White vinegar thats a fairly mild concentration of acetic acid will turn steel a grey colour quickly. Citric acid seems to be one of the milder rust removers for light surface rust. The next top ingredient in Rustins is methanol so some dilution with meths would bring its active ingredient down to something more useable. 

20230422_093234.jpg

40 minutes ago, Nucejoe said:

Thanks Jon,   what active ingredient is in this deoxidiser? 

To remove the canon pinion , 

A fine  pin vice stem holder is likely to grab the canon pinion, should  pull streight up.

Rgds

 

 

Snap Nucejoe 😄

  • Like 1
Neverenoughwatches Distinguished Member

Neverenoughwatches

Posted
Posted (edited)
42 minutes ago, RichardHarris123 said:

I bought this, it's slow but works and doesn't damage anything. 

Screenshot_20230422_100056_Amazon Shopping.jpg

According to the data sheet on this Rich , its 100% phosphoric acid. Actually another section of the data sheet states 10 -30% composition.  Bit vague ?

Screenshot_20230422-103046_Drive.jpg

Edited by Neverenoughwatches
  • Thanks 1
Nucejoe Distinguished Member

Nucejoe

Posted
Posted

 Thanks Neverenough , your last post encouraged and educated me.

I have a chance to buy pure generic orthophosperic acid from merc of Germany, but was scared of that prefix ortho , sounded like something that might explode. 

So it should be diluted?  I had plans to test it with pure concentration. 

You always send me diving dictionaries, what is meths ?

Rgds

 

Neverenoughwatches Distinguished Member

Neverenoughwatches

Posted
Posted
18 minutes ago, Nucejoe said:

 Thanks Neverenough , your last post encouraged and educated me.

I have a chance to buy pure generic orthophosperic acid from merc of Germany, but was scared of that prefix ortho , sounded like something that might explode. 

So it should be diluted?  I had plans to test it with pure concentration. 

You always send me diving dictionaries, what is meths ?

Rgds

 

Haha sorry i sometimes forget we are from all over the world. Meths is our Uk term for methylated spirits which is only around 10 % methanol and 90 % ethanol ( i think the methanol is to make it toxic as well as a small amount of Bitrex, coloured purple and placed in a recognisable poison bottle.  Apparently taxed differently for its use other than as a drinking alcohol ). The small bottle of rustins rust remover is a strong concentration of phosphoric acid 45 % along with methanol and ethanol . I figured diluting it with more would reduce its aggressiveness. 

49 minutes ago, RichardHarris123 said:

The so called non hazardous one is an aqueous solution of ammonium benzoate. 

Ah ok, the one I'm looking at has a red label and contains amounts of phosphoric acid. I'm not entirely sure how much though, i think not as much as the Rustins i have.

48 minutes ago, Nucejoe said:

I had plans to test it with pure concentration. 

Based on the nearly half concentration that i used, thats going to eat though small parts. Definitely worth an experiment though to work out a good solution for rusf removing. Googles and chem suit advised 😄

  • Thanks 1
Jonno65 Watch Enthusiast

Jonno65

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
5 hours ago, Nucejoe said:

Thanks Jon,   what active ingredient is in this deoxidiser? 

To remove the canon pinion , 

A fine  pin vice stem holder is likely to grab the canon pinion, should  pull streight up.

Rgds

 

 

Good idea - my pin vice is on the way!  

This is what the bottle states:

Contains: 10-30% Benzene, Methyl.

10-30% Phosphoric Acid & Balance ingredients..

Non-Hazardous.

Jon

Edited by Jonno65
  • Thanks 1
Jonno65 Watch Enthusiast

Jonno65

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

I managed to find the video that mentioned the rust dissolver - on Marshals Wristwatch Revival.  he was recommended Evapo-Rust.  In Australia here it is made by CRC. 

Video: 

https://crcindustries.com.au/products/ds/sds-EVR1.pdf

The ingredients are not clear - or at lest not the same, but he did say it is very slow and it turns the steel parts black.. It is labeled as a 'super safe rust remover'.

https://automotivesuperstore.com.au/crc-evr1?utm_term=CRC-EVR1&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&gclid=CjwKCAjw0ZiiBhBKEiwA4PT9z-UbKUfVf-Fq_OKLKxp2KshYTBrPA4J3Qp75JMmMEqTIws-37f1zZRoCMz8QAvD_BwE

Edited by Jonno65
  • Like 1

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • HectorLooi
      Hour hand won’t go past certain spot when adjusting time forwards

      By HectorLooi · Posted

      If the watch is new, just return it to the seller for a refund or replacement.
    • Randy55
      Hour hand won’t go past certain spot when adjusting time forwards

      By Randy55 · Posted

      Keevo, Welcome to the group ! I'm thinking that you have some damage to the hour, and/ or minute wheel. Possibly just a bent, otherwise damaged, or missing tooth.   Your photo didn't post that I can see. I think you'll have to open it to start really finding the issue. Best, Randy
    • Neverenoughwatches
      Diy rotary cleaning machine

      By Neverenoughwatches · Posted

      An industrial break cleaner , like Holts does a good job of rinsing off paraffin 
    • mikepilk
      Cap jewel with what looks like a circular engraving around the edge

      By mikepilk · Posted

      In cap jewels on several watches I have serviced over the years. I've recently serviced a couple of Longines movements where the cap jewels were colourless. They are a real pain. Without colour they disappear when immersed in any liquid for cleaning 😲 Not necessarily. Cousins do a 10ml bottle for £26 which will last me for years. That's just half the price of a simple Bergeon silicone cushion, so not too expensive 🤣
    • BobG
      Etachron regulation system

      By BobG · Posted

      I wanted to post an update as I have two movements running really well now, 230-250 amplitude , 0.5 and under beat error, and +/-8 seconds or so. I removed the hairspring assembly in order to start over and noticed that the terminal curve between the stud and regulator arm was distorted. The stud was lower than it should be. I massaged the curve to look pretty good and reinstalled it. I followed Alex's video advice, best I could with 10x magnification, and with the regulator arm set in the middle of the curve I adjusted the stud so the spring was centered. I then made sure I could move the regulator arm the entire terminal curve without upsetting the coils. I then put it back on the Timegrapher and began closing down the regulator pins until I saw a change in amplitude which means to me that the pins were now pinching the spring. I opened them slightly and it looks good except I have a 0 on dial down, +3 on dial up but -16 on crown down.  I'm a bit stuck on how to adjust out the positional error. I also noticed a drop in amplitude, 180-200 on crown down. In the other video link I posted at about minute 26 if I remember he adjusts out positional error by manipulating  the regulator pin gap. With crown down the hairspring falls away from the pin and the rate slows so he closes the pins a bit to keep them tighter in crown down position. That means the spring is tighter on dial up as well but then he moved the regulator arm to slow the movement.  There must be some Seiko experts here that have some methods for dialing out positional errors. 
×
×
  • Create New...