Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Hi all,

Just took delivery on a vintage Boley WW.  Motor is good, need to remount it on a better surface, but otherwise looks true and seems to work well.  Motor runs strong with foot pedal.  I know I need to WD-40 some of it since it's a little stiff, and probably have to take more of it apart for a good lubrication.  It came with matching tailstock, what I think is an index plate on the head, graver rest and a bunch of collets (all picutred).  I got a good deal because the seller packed it horribly and broke the base and acrylic holder, so I got a decent partial refund.  I have attached pictures below and I know I'll probably need a 3-jaw chuck and face plate, but what else?

It came with about 52 of the fixed size collets (at top in picture), 2 of the large open collets (not sure what they are called), one center punch, and 5 of the disc collets (far right).  I also assume the bottom item is a graver, although I will likely be ordering some new ones of different sizes/angles.

So what do all you lathe experts think?  Anything else I will need to start learning?  For the money, this seemed like a good starter point as far as equipment goes.

 

 

 

 

 

IMG_1316.JPG

IMG_1319.JPG

IMG_1317.JPG

IMG_1318.JPG

IMG_1320.JPG

Edited by pent
pic rotate
Posted

You have most things you need to begin practising and turning simple parts free-hand. If you want to make winding stems, you will need a filing rest to file the square. That is a centre, not a punch.

The first thing would be to strip it, clean it and lubricate the bearings. You will need to keep adding a little fresh oil at frequent intervals, so get a supply before you start. Get some good lighting, magnification and measuring equipment too.

  • Like 2
Posted

I use airline oil which is ISO 22 for my lathe and also for my oil stones and pretty much everything in between.

What you have there is exactly the same. Maybe cost a bit more as it is Mobil after all.

Here's a vid I made on disassembling an 8mm lathe headstock which might help. I did an assembly one as well

 

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Posted

Well it all depends what you want to do now you have a lathe I suggest you start by getting a complete set of chucks. You can never have to many gravers, I always used an arkansas stone to sharpen them. 

  • Like 2
Posted
3 hours ago, oldhippy said:

Well it all depends what you want to do now you have a lathe I suggest you start by getting a complete set of chucks. You can never have to many gravers, I always used an arkansas stone to sharpen them. 

3 and 4 jaw chucks? or chucks for drills? or both?  I'll definitely go graver shopping so I can learn which angles are best for different operations.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Get Archie Perkins' book Watchmaker's Lathe and How to Use It.  Read the book. Think about what you learn.  Experiment and practice.  In a few weeks of dedicated work you will know a lot more about lathes, how to maintain, and use them.  Seriously.  Do your homework.  You're not going to learn to use this fundamental machine tool by soliciting gratuitous advice on this forum to a few random questions.  My two cents. Best to you.

  • Like 3
Posted
2 hours ago, StickDog said:

Get Archie Perkins' book Watchmaker's Lathe and How to Use It.  Read the book. Think about what you learn.  Experiment and practice.  In a few weeks of dedicated work you will know a lot more about lathes, how to maintain, and use them.  Seriously.  Do your homework.  You're not going to learn to use this fundamental machine tool by soliciting gratuitous advice on this forum to a few random questions.  My two cents. Best to you.

Great advice and already done!  I'm studying that and  watchmaker's and model engineer's lathe: A users manual as well.  BTW, T&T&T on youtube is an amazing watchmaker with the lathe so people can see some of the techniques close up.

  • Like 1

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I put the original broken glass (whats left of it) behind the acrylic. This is how it originally looked like. A cheap clock but I like it. Very noisy when the alarm comes wake up guaranteed! 🙂
    • If at all possible, find a service guide for the automatic movements your work on, because the lubrication procedures may have different requirements or rely on oils you would not use in a manual wind train (in addition to the braking grease you mentioned). Some autos like older Seikos do not have a manual wind option, so the procedure of letting down the mainspring without being able to use the crown may require a screwdriver in the ratchet wheel screw and great care. Do you have an auto movement you were planning to start with?
    • I am an amateur, so there's that. I do not get fixated on amplitude, lift angles, and beat error. However, 4.8ms would bug me if it were my watch. But you must judge your own skills to appreciate the possibility of going backward. I suggest, that you button it up let your friend enjoy the watch for now. As your skills progress, come back to it and correct it. I assume that this watch has a fixed hairspring pin. Some modern watches have an adjustable pin along with adjustable regulator. These are trivial to get in beat. I own a valjoux 726 my dad gave me on my 18th birthday (a looooong time ago). I broke the ratchet wheel with an aggressive wind 4 yrs ago. I have been waiting for my skills to progress before doing a service. I am close. Your advice is well placed and I will apply it.
    • I didn’t find any anomaly to the left of the red mark…reflection? this is the balance in its pivot in the inverted assembly. i can’t see any obvious kinks  and the spring is flat as far as I can see. Either the stud screw is missing, or it’s glued in… I don’t know. I’m loathe to fiddle with it. Any further insights? Thanks!
    • Update!  I've dismantled it, cleaned all the glue off, and rebuilt and lubricated the base movement. I'll leave the chrono part for another day. It's running well - great amplitude and keeping time, but it's got a beat error of 4.8ms.    How important is it to correct this? I'm worried that the potential for making things worse having to take the hairspring off and on repeatedly to adjust this. Would anyone here accept it at that?
×
×
  • Create New...