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Posted

I have a nice old Luch 2209 that I restored.  One problem I am having with it though is the hour marker seems to wander off ahead of the true hour.  Meaning, it may be 10:55, but looking at the watch face, it looks like the hour hand is a little past 11).  When I installed the hands, I was very careful to make sure that I installed the hour marker and then lined it up to the 12, and then I installed the minute marker so that it was directly over the house market at 12 as well.  This morning while wearing the watch, I had to reset the time twice as it appeared it was an hour ahead of itself before I figured out what was going on.

Any tips on what might be causing this to happen?  It's almost as if the hour hand is about 15 minutes fast, yet it was not when I placed all the hands on.  Here are two pictures showing what I am seeing.

 

Thanks

 

IMG_0928.jpeg

IMG_0929.jpeg

Posted

Hi first thing to check is the hand a little loose on the hour wheel and or if the hand is loose on its centre bush allowing a little movement. checking the movement in the vertical if they are loose it will drag on the way up and drop on the way down, therefore  be behind onnthe upward side 6 to 12  and be infront on the 12 to 6 side. was there a dial washer on the hour wheel  ?.

Posted (edited)

Neither hand is lose... and yes, there is a dial washer.

Playing with the time setting though, I just felt the hour and minute hand snag each other.  Possibly that is the issue.  I know I made sure they cleared each other though... not sure why that would not be the case now.

Edited by kd8tzc
Posted

Okay, so this is very strange.  I pulled the hands, and then reset  them all.  When I was done, the hour and minute hand were both over each other on the 12.  I advanced the time through 12 hours, and now the hour is on the 12, but the minute hand is faster by 18 minutes. 

I'm not sure what to look at at this point.

  • Confused 1
Posted

Was the watch behaving like this before the restoration?

Check that the cannon pinion is seated fully and that the hour and minute wheel are engaged properly.

If you remove the hands and advance the time, do you still feel the "snagging" feeling?

  • Like 1
Posted

Hector, the watch was a piece of parts before I started, so I really can't answer that.  One thing I am noticing though is although the hour hand does not appear to slip, I can make it slip with a piece of pegwood when I push on it.  That being said, I would think I need to close the hole in it up, just ever so slightly.  I have a really old staking set (K&D) with a bunch of stakes (about 60 I think).  I thought I recall seeing someone use one to close up the hole in a hand once, and I think it was one of the stakes that tapers a bit, but has an opening on the end that goes over the part that fits around the hour wheel part that it attaches to.  I wish I could tell what size is what though as there are no charts or anything for this set, so I have no idea what the ID is of each of the openings for those that have one.  I do see some stamps on each stake, but I'm not sure what those indicate.  One says "99 K&D" and another says "27 K&D".  Maybe there is something somewhere that describes what each is... I'll have to search online.

Posted

Update... so I tried using my staking set, but I didn't have a taper mouth closing bit that was just slightly smaller than the hour hand (I only have one of those anyhow in my set), but I think I was able to get it a little smaller by lightly using an older jewelers screwdriver that was junk and just lightly peening (or whatever you want to call it) a few spots on the top ridge of the hour hand where it goes over the hour wheel.  This didn't make it overly tight, but possibly just enough.  With magnification, it didn't look like anything really changed on the hour hand, but it does seem a little tighter now.  I did this last night and the watch has been running all night and the hour and minute seem to stay lined up where they should.  I'm sure there is a better method to doing this, and it might be a good idea for me to get a full set of those taper mouth closing bits so I have the right tool next time.  Unfortunately, I bought mine at a garage sale for a steal a number of years ago and it has a mix/match of punches with it.  I'm not sure if you can even buy just those punches separately, but I will take a look.

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