Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi, I need to find a 'Yoke Spring' for my FEF 190 movement.....however, having search fp0r one its clear that different suppliers see this as referring to different parts. If anyone can help me stablish a naming convention that I can use to avoid prodding you guys all the time...please do. I've attached an image of what I need.

Thanks again!

 

Yoke Spring.png

Posted

You have the movement number and part number. Search Ebay - FEF 190 part 440. The is an Italian seller that has one for EUR 4.90 plus shipping.

  • Like 2
Posted
On 10/12/2023 at 1:06 PM, Watching said:

Hi, I need to find a 'Yoke Spring' for my FEF 190 movement.....however, having search fp0r one its clear that different suppliers see this as referring to different parts. If anyone can help me stablish a naming convention that I can use to avoid prodding you guys all the time...please do. I've attached an image of what I need.

Thanks again!

 

Yoke Spring.png

Different countries use different names for parts hence a universal part numbering system. Even different generations of watchmakers call parts differently. 

  • Like 1
Posted
On 10/12/2023 at 5:06 AM, Watching said:

'Yoke Spring'

I see somebody beat me to the Answer.

2 hours ago, Neverenoughwatches said:

Different countries use different names for parts hence a universal part numbering system. Even different generations of watchmakers call parts differently. 

A lot of times this is never noticed by people who stay within a community or country. Or in the old days when you purchased parts from your local material house. Then the problem would become noticeable if you would read books and discover the books use different terminology is and where you live. Or if you actually look at the technical sheet shall discover it might use a different term that whatever you're using. Or you go to a school in one country and then go to school another country you'll find that the parts have different names. Plus over time the parts will have different names

you might want to find yourself a copy of the bestfit book is out there somewhere is a PDF.

For instance in one of the pages we find this. It makes reference to a Swiss dictionary that lists out all the parts with Swiss terms you're probably not going to find this dictionary if I remember right it was expensive. Now the other purpose of this is the problem of how much room on a package of a spare parts you have the right things? You cannot write all the different languages with descriptions on tiny packages so with the Swiss did was adopt a numbering scheme. So when you're looking for a part you need the number of the parts and the model number of the watch this oftentimes comes up where someone sees the part number for another watch and thinks it's going to work and know what will not

image.png.a35c07d6de0e055f1d34c73d125ca67d.png

Now let's see we should get the next page that covers your part and will get an official name and make you officially unhappy. So you need a yoke spring 440 and according to the official terminology the Swiss the same people are responsible for your parts list they Call part number 440 a set spring not a yoke spring oh dear. Where's a reality both names will work the most important thing is ideal it be nice to you have a part number or the absence of a part number you see a picture of the part you trying to purchase making sure it fits the caliber of your watch.

image.png.1a4faee60cfef422da27c34e33e5d214.png

I suppose might as well have the last page

image.png.8ff733320adfeee59cc667ad5626e1c7.png

 

Other thing that helps for stuff like this is a website like this one

http://cgi.julesborel.com/

Then there is the other little distressing thing for people new to watch repair of too many names is too many watches that use the same part or the same watch that all have differing names. So conceivably could have 10 wristwatches in front to you with 10 different names tender for model numbers and the reality is there are all identical watches and would use identical part. But if those 10 different watch companies supplied parts conceivably you can purchase 10 different packages thinking that they're all different in the reality is that all be the same. This is why companies like bestfit came into existence and this website makes use of that by cross-referencing the parts to get the original watch zero The stock thousands of parts for thousands of different watches when the reality it could be just one

On 10/12/2023 at 5:06 AM, Watching said:

for my FEF 190 movement

So with the above website you should end up on this page

http://cgi.julesborel.com/cgi-bin/matcgi2?ref=FEF_190

Now this is where something peculiar comes up this is another problem with finding watch parts they don't seem to have your spring at all? Which is interesting as it seems like they should have it. So I went to another site and they don't have this watch at all which is strange this is where the tech sheet might lend us some help for instance

image.png.34c8a6f44283dd5e6367500f20525056.png

This sometimes comes up to watches of physical size unfortunately different caliber numbers and basically identical watches so most of the parts should interchange except the plates. Except in this particular case it's not proving to be helpful at all. I'm not finding any more that I'm not finding your part with this number so let's go to another site see if we figure out what's going on

http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&0&2uswk&FEF_190

This then provides at least what I'm guessing is the problem it was made in 1945.

Out of curiosity back to bestfit online. Unlike the book which can be purchased or can be downloaded for free of someone would tell you where. I typically don't tell you where to download it for free because I paid for my. But somebody am sure will tell you where to get it for free the online though you do have to pay. But it gives you some interesting search options that the other site doesn't even though very likely the most part though have the same material as it probably came from the same stuff. The problem with the cross-references are they only exist if the literature covers the cross referencing so you can't cross reference of 200-year-old pocket watch typically a can't cross reference anything modern because the bestfit books and basically in the 70s.

So this is the problem searching for just number two which should give me all of the 200 series we can see we do not have 210. It exists but it's before the cross references came into existence. I don't know why they have some parts and I don't have others.

image.png.991fb2f27fbf7c8bcbf10666532e4b1c.png

Posted
8 hours ago, JohnR725 said:

I see somebody beat me to the Answer.

A lot of times this is never noticed by people who stay within a community or country. Or in the old days when you purchased parts from your local material house. Then the problem would become noticeable if you would read books and discover the books use different terminology is and where you live. Or if you actually look at the technical sheet shall discover it might use a different term that whatever you're using. Or you go to a school in one country and then go to school another country you'll find that the parts have different names. Plus over time the parts will have different names

you might want to find yourself a copy of the bestfit book is out there somewhere is a PDF.

For instance in one of the pages we find this. It makes reference to a Swiss dictionary that lists out all the parts with Swiss terms you're probably not going to find this dictionary if I remember right it was expensive. Now the other purpose of this is the problem of how much room on a package of a spare parts you have the right things? You cannot write all the different languages with descriptions on tiny packages so with the Swiss did was adopt a numbering scheme. So when you're looking for a part you need the number of the parts and the model number of the watch this oftentimes comes up where someone sees the part number for another watch and thinks it's going to work and know what will not

image.png.a35c07d6de0e055f1d34c73d125ca67d.png

Now let's see we should get the next page that covers your part and will get an official name and make you officially unhappy. So you need a yoke spring 440 and according to the official terminology the Swiss the same people are responsible for your parts list they Call part number 440 a set spring not a yoke spring oh dear. Where's a reality both names will work the most important thing is ideal it be nice to you have a part number or the absence of a part number you see a picture of the part you trying to purchase making sure it fits the caliber of your watch.

image.png.1a4faee60cfef422da27c34e33e5d214.png

I suppose might as well have the last page

image.png.8ff733320adfeee59cc667ad5626e1c7.png

 

Other thing that helps for stuff like this is a website like this one

http://cgi.julesborel.com/

Then there is the other little distressing thing for people new to watch repair of too many names is too many watches that use the same part or the same watch that all have differing names. So conceivably could have 10 wristwatches in front to you with 10 different names tender for model numbers and the reality is there are all identical watches and would use identical part. But if those 10 different watch companies supplied parts conceivably you can purchase 10 different packages thinking that they're all different in the reality is that all be the same. This is why companies like bestfit came into existence and this website makes use of that by cross-referencing the parts to get the original watch zero The stock thousands of parts for thousands of different watches when the reality it could be just one

So with the above website you should end up on this page

http://cgi.julesborel.com/cgi-bin/matcgi2?ref=FEF_190

Now this is where something peculiar comes up this is another problem with finding watch parts they don't seem to have your spring at all? Which is interesting as it seems like they should have it. So I went to another site and they don't have this watch at all which is strange this is where the tech sheet might lend us some help for instance

image.png.34c8a6f44283dd5e6367500f20525056.png

This sometimes comes up to watches of physical size unfortunately different caliber numbers and basically identical watches so most of the parts should interchange except the plates. Except in this particular case it's not proving to be helpful at all. I'm not finding any more that I'm not finding your part with this number so let's go to another site see if we figure out what's going on

http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&0&2uswk&FEF_190

This then provides at least what I'm guessing is the problem it was made in 1945.

Out of curiosity back to bestfit online. Unlike the book which can be purchased or can be downloaded for free of someone would tell you where. I typically don't tell you where to download it for free because I paid for my. But somebody am sure will tell you where to get it for free the online though you do have to pay. But it gives you some interesting search options that the other site doesn't even though very likely the most part though have the same material as it probably came from the same stuff. The problem with the cross-references are they only exist if the literature covers the cross referencing so you can't cross reference of 200-year-old pocket watch typically a can't cross reference anything modern because the bestfit books and basically in the 70s.

So this is the problem searching for just number two which should give me all of the 200 series we can see we do not have 210. It exists but it's before the cross references came into existence. I don't know why they have some parts and I don't have others.

image.png.991fb2f27fbf7c8bcbf10666532e4b1c.png

I wonder if Watching's head exploded after reading 🙂. I can maybe offer a solution to finding this part at least, have a go at making one.

Posted (edited)

If you search Cousins for "FEF 190" , can get a pack of 5 from for about £6

image.thumb.png.640263fd40c4bad9f31d28a5a5b783a5.png

Note that we have yet another name for it !

image.png.6a8f1ddf842675fe99c206c040509ce5.png

Edited by mikepilk

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Tool for removing or pressing the bezel? Most likely you have to remove the bezel (with a knife) before removing old crystal or inserting a new one. You can press the bezel with the crystal press if you have a suitable die with straight walls or otherwise a die that has enough clearance that it doesn't touch the crystal when pressing the bezel.
    • This will be my first crystal replacement, I have a press, but looking at the watch I wonder if I might need a bezel tool also. Any and all help appreciated. 
    • I'm not entirely sure you fully understand what he's doing in the video. For one thing he's giving examples of things like about 16 minutes he talks about opening up the regulator just a little bit. Opening up the regulator slows the watch down to compensate for that he moves the regulator fast and now it's keeping time again but the regulator pins are too far apart. I have an image down below on top of it shows the effect of regulator pins and amplitude. If the regulator pins are farther apart than the example down below then at a higher amplitude timekeeping will be much worse. Why the regulator pins are supposed to be adjusted as an average rule approximately twice the thickness of the mainspring itself. In other words if you look at the spacing it have one half of the hairspring thickness on either side of the hairspring itself. There is like he talks about the video a little bit of adjustment here and there. So in his example where he opened them up it will really dramatically screw up timekeeping based on amplitude. Then when you get to the 20 some minutes like you say he is adjusting the regulator pins closer together to get a more even timekeeping based on amplitude and amplitude changes are caused by going to various positions. Then and the other example of the image down below regulator pins too far apart and they hairspring is not centered and look what that does the timekeeping. So hairspring is supposed to be centered regulator pins are supposed to properly spaced. Then you get reasonably even timekeeping like it shows in the upper image. It's not like we're regulating out positional errors like poising errors because that's something entirely different.   In the part number above and in the video both of you left off details. I which version of either of your watches I will just make you's timing specifications for your watch down below may specify how you're supposed to do it other words you wind up the watch fully wound up you wait 10 to 60 minutes in the four positions it should be within 60 seconds. Yes it can be closer but you may not actually get zero.     Now let's compare with the 2892 and see where we might have a discrepancy. First off we have a problem of which one is a using did he use the chronometer grade 1 or the top grade or what?  None is basically just much tighter timing tolerances. So when he's using an example watch conceivably might be a chronometer grade watch then things are going to be much more  perfect than what you're going to see.       NH35_TG.pdf ETA 2892-A2 Manufacturing info.pdf
    • Note the 8992 is 850 pounds for a liter. I think this is really for industrial settings like they say, where it would be used as a final bath in a 20,000 buck cleaning machine. I use the 8981.   That is excellent- I don't often get to see a serviced watch 5 years later, but when I do I expect to see pretty much the same oiling on the balance jewels as when it went out. I think at that area, being essentially sealed, it really should remain fairly pristine for likely 10 years. It's why some makers go to the trouble to use cap jewels on the escape wheel as well- not so much for friction reduction, but to keep the oil longer where it really counts.
×
×
  • Create New...