Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
8 hours ago, Michael1962 said:

It does not look like a normal capacitor that I am used to. It is slightly bulged around the centre of the plastic outer

If the cap is starting to bulge then its probably on its way out, is it domed on the top as well ?

  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, Neverenoughwatches said:

If the cap is starting to bulge then its probably on its way out, is it domed on the top as well ?

It's a pair of XY suppression caps so not the same as a failing electrolytic that bulges.

  • Thanks 1
Posted (edited)

Yeah, that's what I meant. It is not a capacitor that I am used to with a metallic casing with the cross on the end etc. This looks like it has been connected outside of the plastic cylinder and then put together with a filling compound. The is slight bulging around the centre of the plastic cylinder. At least I know it is there. What I will not be sure abut will be how it is all connected should it fail.

I suspect I will be asking questions of Andy again. 👍

Edited by Michael1962
Posted
7 minutes ago, Michael1962 said:

Yeah, that's what I meant. It is not a capacitor that I am used to with a metallic casing with the cross on the end etc. This looks like it has been connected outside of the plastic cylinder and then put together with a filling compound. The is slight bulging around the centre of the plastic cylinder. At least I know it is there. What I will not be sure abut will be how it is all connected should it fail.

It's just connected as loop in and out so in parallel with the supply to the motor.

image.png.b57c7a44554440b1111e9c5928dbc546.png

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
25 minutes ago, Michael1962 said:

What is the transparent wire for? I am pretty sure that there is only four wires going into the capacitor.

There should be 5 as your diagram and it should be connected to earth.

One way to see if it's still working OK is to have a radio plugged into the same socket and see if you get interference when you start and stop the motor.

image.png.6cfb9686192ceb40b6742b98d07eeed8.png

Edit

Just looked back at your photos and it's their just sleeved Green/Yellow as the earth.

image.png.d23ad582749234d663f6463767a5c0bc.png

Edited by AndyGSi
  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Clearing the decks so I can get into my clocks. This is a ship that was my mothers. I have had it for probably 20 years and it looked like this. 
image.thumb.png.fb289b0ae2c57f222893a470227d64a7.png

image.thumb.png.4d8f52c3472bab7cd0ff1bbfc90fa6b7.png


image.thumb.jpeg.22fedaebf57e0517cbf08974c06c4b28.jpeg

image.thumb.png.57c78a874e133fd904659638b5735b41.png

image.thumb.png.b9de5194085ae309b11a62d4d86d827a.png

Now it looks like this. In bits, but you should get the idea. 
image.thumb.jpeg.d34d6e49fd7faa7c1bb61f466d98a2f4.jpeg

image.thumb.jpeg.f9a80c19b11fc2a61fb896fb5c4b616d.jpeg

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • If at all possible, find a service guide for the automatic movements your work on, because the lubrication procedures may have different requirements or rely on oils you would not use in a manual wind train (in addition to the braking grease you mentioned). Some autos like older Seikos do not have a manual wind option, so the procedure of letting down the mainspring without being able to use the crown may require a screwdriver in the ratchet wheel screw and great care. Do you have an auto movement you were planning to start with?
    • I am an amateur, so there's that. I do not get fixated on amplitude, lift angles, and beat error. However, 4.8ms would bug me if it were my watch. But you must judge your own skills to appreciate the possibility of going backward. I suggest, that you button it up let your friend enjoy the watch for now. As your skills progress, come back to it and correct it. I assume that this watch has a fixed hairspring pin. Some modern watches have an adjustable pin along with adjustable regulator. These are trivial to get in beat. I own a valjoux 726 my dad gave me on my 18th birthday (a looooong time ago). I broke the ratchet wheel with an aggressive wind 4 yrs ago. I have been waiting for my skills to progress before doing a service. I am close. Your advice is well placed and I will apply it.
    • I didn’t find any anomaly to the left of the red mark…reflection? this is the balance in its pivot in the inverted assembly. i can’t see any obvious kinks  and the spring is flat as far as I can see. Either the stud screw is missing, or it’s glued in… I don’t know. I’m loathe to fiddle with it. Any further insights? Thanks!
    • Update!  I've dismantled it, cleaned all the glue off, and rebuilt and lubricated the base movement. I'll leave the chrono part for another day. It's running well - great amplitude and keeping time, but it's got a beat error of 4.8ms.    How important is it to correct this? I'm worried that the potential for making things worse having to take the hairspring off and on repeatedly to adjust this. Would anyone here accept it at that?
    • Since I've been banned from the previous discussion, apparently my language was inappropriate...for small boys. I will start another thread and act in a more decent manner for the girls and ladies of the group.  Please what will happen if the forum can't be managed by the administrator, are there provisions in place to preserve the achived member's questions and answers over the years. Please if I may ask these important questions that are important to the members please.
×
×
  • Create New...