Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

I am about to start on my journey with a new lathe, and need to make some gravers. I ordered the steel to make them and the sharpening stones etc. and planned on making a 45 degree, 20 degree and 30 degree tools to get me started. Luckily I snagged a graver sharpening tool in a recent tool job lot buy so I'm off to a good start.

PXL_20231130_133409007.thumb.jpg.469488f41883145716fedba583b7f383.jpg

I was pondering how I could get the correct angle for the sharpening process and pictured myself trying to balance everything and try to read a protractor and thought there must be a better way.... here is what I came up with:

image.thumb.png.298e4f65d87efc9aac96be09b0e82af6.png

So all I have to do now is put in the dimensions of my graver and graver sharpening tool (should only have to do once) and the angle I want, and the sheet will tell me the distance (L) from the tip of the top of the diamond to the front face of the graver sharpening tool, so in the example above (fake graver sharpening tool dimensions) if I want a 30 degree angle on the graver I need to have 95.162mm of graver sticking out, then file file away!

Turns out my maths teachers were correct, I will use trigonometry every day!

Can't upload the excel sheet here but can send it to you if you want it, just pm me with your email.

PS

Just realised that the model only works for square gravers ie a = b on above drawing - head is hurting from the maths to make it work for non-square tools also.

Model also assumes that the angle where the graver enters the graver sharpening tool is 90 degrees.

Edited by Waggy
  • Like 1
Posted

I love a bit of maths but won't the angle change as the length is reduced by sharpening?  Wouldn't it be easier to cut some plastic/ metal sheet to the desired angle, align the sharpening to it and insert the graver.

Posted (edited)
14 minutes ago, RichardHarris123 said:

I love a bit of maths but won't the angle change as the length is reduced by sharpening?  Wouldn't it be easier to cut some plastic/ metal sheet to the desired angle, align the sharpening to it and insert the graver.

Yes and no, because the length is referenced to the top of the diamond, the tool will first start to sharpen on the bottom tip  and the graver will be sitting at the 'wrong' angle eg 28 degrees, as the tool face wears during the sharpening the error in angle will reduce until, just as you reach the tip of the top of the diamond it will be exactly the angle you want - ie 30 degrees in the example above.

10 minutes ago, oldhippy said:

Why don't you buy them already sharpened. 

Now where is the fun in that? 🤣

Edited by Waggy
typo
  • Like 1
Posted

I make my own gravers out of HSS hardwood dowel and a bit of brass tube and have just finished making a graver sharpener to fit my lathe using the tip over tool rest with a shaft out the side.

Dell

IMG_0500.jpeg.c480ec7059159c20af0282778a80b68e.jpeg

IMG_1062.jpeg.7434fcdb3d79f7f60ae66f10c6fcf63b.jpeg

IMG_1071.jpeg.479bb62f1023c7de184a9be0c1286283.jpeg

IMG_1070.jpeg.a9483e8e696ea27b83db7f378be43868.jpeg

IMG_2109.jpeg.265bfb21112d69a3d96221ca4c0a917d.jpeg

IMG_2110.jpeg.2674a3a3ffd044139fb10995577f559c.jpeg

 

IMG_2111.jpeg

  • Like 3
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Do You think that this is so important to have angle exactly 30 degr, or 60 or whatever?  What if one holds the graver by hand when sharpening it? I for example sharpen my gravers without any tool that will ensure exact angles, simply holding them with hand.

Edited by nevenbekriev
  • Like 1
Posted
23 minutes ago, nevenbekriev said:

Do You think that this is so important to have angle exactly 30 degr, or 60 or whatever?  What if one holds the graver by hand when sharpening it? I for example sharpen my gravers without any tool that will ensure exact angles, simply holding them with hand.

Been hand sharpening all my tools for nearly 40 years, using bench stones, grinding stones and disks. It takes practice to achieve what you want on the graver quickly but well worth the effort for the time saved. 

  • Like 1
Posted
On 12/27/2023 at 8:21 PM, nevenbekriev said:

Do You think that this is so important to have angle exactly 30 degr, or 60 or whatever?  What if one holds the graver by hand when sharpening it? I for example sharpen my gravers without any tool that will ensure exact angles, simply holding them with hand.

How much sharpening do you do on flat bench stones nev compared to a diamond wheel and what size grit do you finish at ? I'm finding at 2000 grit the gravers still show some surface graining that is holding back a really crisp clean finish on the steel I'm turning.

Posted

I use almost only tungsten carbide gravers for lathe turning. I form and sharpen them only by diamond disk, dry, mounted on usual bench grinder motor. The disk is 800 grit, the diam. is reduced to 80mm.  No aditional finish needed, good and clean surface and  edges acheeved. It is important that the disk rotates true in plane, which needs some adjustment as the disks are soft and can be bent in needed direction.

For HSS gravers - after grinding by bench grinder with small red color disk for sharpening cainsaw chains ( I don't know what the grit is) I use arcanzas stone for polishing the edges

  • Thanks 1
Posted
13 hours ago, nevenbekriev said:

I use almost only tungsten carbide gravers for lathe turning. I form and sharpen them only by diamond disk, dry, mounted on usual bench grinder motor. The disk is 800 grit, the diam. is reduced to 80mm.  No aditional finish needed, good and clean surface and  edges acheeved. It is important that the disk rotates true in plane, which needs some adjustment as the disks are soft and can be bent in needed direction.

For HSS gravers - after grinding by bench grinder with small red color disk for sharpening cainsaw chains ( I don't know what the grit is) I use arcanzas stone for polishing the edges

Happy new year nev. Thanks for that information,  i just need to experiment to get what i need.

Posted
2 hours ago, Jon said:

These are handy if you don't get a good result by hand https://www.cousinsuk.com/sku/details/gravers-scorpers-scrapers-deburring/g34925

Finish on Arkansas stone after a 2000 wet and dry to 4000 grit film on a lapping plate. I use a glass lapping plate to get the initial shape and angle. Use plenty of water to make the lapping film last

6mm plate glass as a flat bench lap ?

Posted
5 minutes ago, Jon said:

That'll do. Here's a cheap lapping glass plate which will be a lot flatter and give better results. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Veritas-Glass-Lapping-Plate/dp/B07Q58JFV9

You can spend a lot of money on really good quality lapping plates

Thanks Jon,  i have a glass supplier that will freebie me pieces  of 6 or 10mm plate glass or toughen it for just a few quid.

  • Like 1
Posted
9 hours ago, Jon said:

glass plate which will be a lot flatter and give better results

Thanks for all the comments. I agree that the exact dimensions are not critical to the performance of the tool, I was just trying to figure out the best way to get the angle right without making a special tool or manually trying to measure and started to calculate it on a bit of paper and then the engineer in me kicked in and "if you are going to do it, do it right" so I ended up making a spreadsheet, partly just to see if I could and partly for fun. I'll look into the glass plate.

I have now made my gravers, 3 of them; 45°, 30° and 20°. I used 120 grit oil stone to get the general shape, or first cut, which took about 20 mins, then worked up through the grits on diamond sharpening stones to 3000 grit. I then finished off on a hard Arkansas stone for that near-mirror finish, so I would say about 45 mins each in total.

I was thinking about making handles for the gravers much the same as @Dell has, but then decided to use some old pin vices I had kicking around. I have attached the instructions I roughly followed from Sherline, which describes the process for making the gravers and wooden handles, maybe some will find this useful.

gravers.pdf

  • Like 1
Posted

Don’t forget to stone the two flats adjacent to point and take the sharp corner off the bit that rests on the graver.

Dell

  • Thanks 1

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I have stripped and cleaned a Hermle ships clock. It was just oily, no major faults, and I reassembled it, following my photos in reverse order. The time train is fine but the strike train will not play the ships bell strike for half-past. Ships bells play a four hour sequence for the 'watches' and play double 'ding' for the hour and the double dings plus one for the half past (eg half past the second hour is 'ding-ding' 'ding-ding' 'ding'). Sounds complicated but it isn't really. The strike wheel consists of pairs of bumps (for the ding-ding) and no single bumps. There must me some mechanism on the half-past that lifts the strike lever over one of the bumps so only one ding is played. When I get to a half past, it still plays double ding. I have a feeling it is to do with the lever in front of the rack (there is a sprung attachment  on it) and the position of the wheel (to the right) with the two pins that lets that lever fall, but no matter where I place that wheel I cannot get a single ding at half past! Please can someone help with advice on positioning so I can fix this? BTW Happy Easter 🐣 
    • No it's not 52. I had looked at the Pocket Watch lift angles thread, which lists Elgin 6s as something really high like 62° but visually that is not at all what this watch is doing. I think 42° is more correct and that's where my machine is setup. The watch has a million problems but I have made solid progress. Impulse jewel replaced. Hairspring didn't match the balance (which also doesn't match the serial) but I got it down into range this weekend with 8 or 10 huge timing washers. Replaced the mainspring, balance and train are nice and free. At this point it is running consistently and in beat at about 160°, the third wheel has a bend that sends the timegrapher on a little roller coaster every 8 minutes or so. Remaining amplitude problems may be down to the escapement. The banking pins were way out and it didn't run at all before I started. It has one of the old brass escape wheels rather than steel, and I assume the faces its teeth are probably worn or scored in a way I can't yet fix (or see without a microscope). I know this watch is not going to run above 250° but I am going to keep trying to get above 200. But the best part about this watch? Some unscrupulous person stamped "21 JEWELS" on the train bridge sometime in the past, right on top of the Damascening. It's a 15 jewel movement.
    • I think it would rather be the blast of high current drain that would do the damage. But if used occasionally to maybe fix a mainspring or do dial feet it might be worth trying especially if the mainspring or a replacement couldn’t be found.    Tom
    • This is indeed a unique site and members including myself genuinely care about it.  All we want is the site to continue. 
    • Hello Mark,  thank you for the ad removal , like JohnR725 , I appreciate any revenue from such would be helpful.  This is the one forum which encourages conversation and social interaction and in that sense it is unique  All the others I frequent can be a little intimidating and answers some what terse some quite rude. I think on here we try to do justice to your site in keeping with your principals. In my opinion it is like no other. The contributors  behave and act like gentlemen and ladies. And long may it continue to be so.
×
×
  • Create New...