Jump to content

How to reattach a lug to the case

signcarver
 Share

Recommended Posts

signcarver WRT Addict

signcarver

Posted
Posted

I need help in how to attach this lug to the case.

I tried epoxy but it didn't hold. I prepped the surface using a diamond file.

I called a couple of jewelers and asked about laser welding but they only work on gold or platinum.

The case is base metal.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Steve

CDDECA5C-E2F7-4AC7-9CF3-6E9D5E3C6CAC_1_105_c.jpeg

nevenbekriev Distinguished Member

nevenbekriev

Posted
Posted

My advice is to find jeweier that is more advanced than the others. I have seen ones, that even didn't know that brass can be soldered with silver solder, this kind of jewelers will not help.

As I see, the lug has been soldered to the case in the factory, this means the material of the case can be soldered. Base metal means only that it is not gold, this is not helpfull at all.

The lug can be fixed to the case by laser as a preparation for the soldering

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
CYCLOPS WRT Addict

CYCLOPS

Posted
Posted

more than likely its chrome or some sort of plated, sometimes stainless is called base metal, it can be silver soldered though and replated, brass doesn't laser as well as precious metals but can be done, good luck...Happy New Year

  • Like 1

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • HectorLooi
      Hour hand won’t go past certain spot when adjusting time forwards

      By HectorLooi · Posted

      If the watch is new, just return it to the seller for a refund or replacement.
    • Randy55
      Hour hand won’t go past certain spot when adjusting time forwards

      By Randy55 · Posted

      Keevo, Welcome to the group ! I'm thinking that you have some damage to the hour, and/ or minute wheel. Possibly just a bent, otherwise damaged, or missing tooth.   Your photo didn't post that I can see. I think you'll have to open it to start really finding the issue. Best, Randy
    • Neverenoughwatches
      Diy rotary cleaning machine

      By Neverenoughwatches · Posted

      An industrial break cleaner , like Holts does a good job of rinsing off paraffin 
    • mikepilk
      Cap jewel with what looks like a circular engraving around the edge

      By mikepilk · Posted

      In cap jewels on several watches I have serviced over the years. I've recently serviced a couple of Longines movements where the cap jewels were colourless. They are a real pain. Without colour they disappear when immersed in any liquid for cleaning 😲 Not necessarily. Cousins do a 10ml bottle for £26 which will last me for years. That's just half the price of a simple Bergeon silicone cushion, so not too expensive 🤣
    • BobG
      Etachron regulation system

      By BobG · Posted

      I wanted to post an update as I have two movements running really well now, 230-250 amplitude , 0.5 and under beat error, and +/-8 seconds or so. I removed the hairspring assembly in order to start over and noticed that the terminal curve between the stud and regulator arm was distorted. The stud was lower than it should be. I massaged the curve to look pretty good and reinstalled it. I followed Alex's video advice, best I could with 10x magnification, and with the regulator arm set in the middle of the curve I adjusted the stud so the spring was centered. I then made sure I could move the regulator arm the entire terminal curve without upsetting the coils. I then put it back on the Timegrapher and began closing down the regulator pins until I saw a change in amplitude which means to me that the pins were now pinching the spring. I opened them slightly and it looks good except I have a 0 on dial down, +3 on dial up but -16 on crown down.  I'm a bit stuck on how to adjust out the positional error. I also noticed a drop in amplitude, 180-200 on crown down. In the other video link I posted at about minute 26 if I remember he adjusts out positional error by manipulating  the regulator pin gap. With crown down the hairspring falls away from the pin and the rate slows so he closes the pins a bit to keep them tighter in crown down position. That means the spring is tighter on dial up as well but then he moved the regulator arm to slow the movement.  There must be some Seiko experts here that have some methods for dialing out positional errors. 
×
×
  • Create New...