Anyone Worked On A Seiko 7T34 Quartz Movement?

[ro63rto]

Couldn't resist this for mere lunch money.

Was sold as a non runner but was hopeful it just needed a reset but as soon as I opened it I saw this.

See the brown/burn mark on the plate?

On top if that there's the simple issue of 2 sticking buttons.

Is it worth delving into the movement to start testing and replacing coils/circuits or is there a cheapish source of NOS movements?

Edited September 7, 2015 by ro63rto

[Blacklab]

You've probably seen the one on fleabay from France not cheap though.

[ro63rto]

You've probably seen the one on fleabay from France not cheap though.

Yeah, €99

Got it saved as a last resort.

[ro63rto]

I'll dig out the multimeter tomorrow to test the coils.

Hope its sunny tomorrow. Hate working by artificial light.

[Blacklab]

Hopefully may just need a good clean: https://adventuresinamateurwatchfettling.wordpress.com

[ro63rto]

My Galaxy s3 is struggling to view the link.

I'll check it out on the laotop tomorrow .

Thanks [emoji106]

[Geo]

Looks like it will be very similar to the 7t32 I worked on a couple of years ago. The gears look like plastic sequins and are a pain in the a##se to work with. It is worth having a go just for the experience if nothing else. I did get the one I had working, but would not want to do one again. The hands are also very fiddly to fit, and there are plenty of them.

I wish you the best of luck!

[ro63rto]

Thanks Geo. Yes, that's a daunting amount of hands to refit [emoji20]

Hopefully just a quick contact clean on the circuit or a duff coil.

[Andyclient]

Thanks Geo. Yes, that's a daunting amount of hands to refit [emoji20]

Hopefully just a quick contact clean on the circuit or a duff coil.

The good thing about refitting the hands is that you don't need to be that accurate as you can just zero them after with the buttons which makes life a lot easier

[GeorgeClarkson]

Did someone call me? :D I have a similar Seiko 7T34-6A90 which I repaired and now works flawlessly. Problems with these movements (as the whole 7Txx series) is that they are very hard to put back together, being 90% of the parts in plastic and very easily broken.. 

 

Check a post I made about the 7T32 movement (structurally similar to the 7T34) on another forum, with links to my videos where I tear it down:

 

http://www.seiko7a38.com/apps/forums/topics/show/13166499-deep-inside-a-7t32-or-shiojiri-y182b-movement

 

Hope you manage to find an donor 7T34 movement, since I believe your PCB is long dead... and probably the coils too. The coils are the same as the one on 7T32 movements, so you can find them easily.

[ro63rto]

Did someone call me? :D I have a similar Seiko 7T34-6A90 which I repaired and now works flawlessly. Problems with these movements (as the whole 7Txx series) is that they are very hard to put back together, being 90% of the parts in plastic and very easily broken..

Check a post I made about the 7T32 movement (structurally similar to the 7T34) on another forum, with links to my videos where I tear it down:

http://www.seiko7a38.com/apps/forums/topics/show/13166499-deep-inside-a-7t32-or-shiojiri-y182b-movement

Hope you manage to find an donor 7T34 movement, since I believe your PCB is long dead... and probably the coils too. The coils are the same as the one on 7T32 movements, so you can find them easily.

Morning and thanks for the link.

Yeah, been reading as much as I can find about these movements.

Saw a pic of one half apart and was surprised at the amount of plastic used.

Were they in cahoots with Swatch in those times???

[bobm12]

Thanks for the link George. I'm on my way to check it out! I've always wondering about those movements, not being a fan of extra buttons on the watch but very much interested on these Seikos particular beauty. Somehow they have found a way not to make the extra buttons deter from the watch looks...for people with my taste, of course.

 

Cheers,

 

Bob

[ro63rto]

Managed to get a user manual for the Flightmaster. £2 from ebay plus £2 postage. France to South London in a day and a half. Quicker than royal mail takes to deliver a letter from London to Brighton.

Bloomin' complicated or what!!!

[loetch]

If your circuit is burnt then getting a replacement will be a challenge.  Seiko designated the same  circuits with a letter after the number A and B. The difference was the position of the holes on the circuit matching up with the plastic posts on the movement.  This watch is a challenge to work on but not overly so. It's amazing how all the gears fall into place when the cover is put back on. Look for bent staffs on the rotors.  Down the rabbit hole.

[GeorgeClarkson]

I second all that, plus be careful not to press down the back plate too much or the pivots will break easily. Finding a battered watch with working movement is the common solution, but the 7t34 is a rare bird nowadays, at a fair price...

[ro63rto]

Still not plucked up the courage to do a tear down [emoji20]

Hopefully this week.

[GeorgeClarkson]

ro63rto, I have a spare 7t34 movement here, but can't remember if it works or not. I will check it now and let you know.

[GeorgeClarkson]

Bad news: I guess my circuit board is busted too... I had forgotten about this (and never not it down, like I should...) Coils are fine, the mechanical part of the movement is also fine, so the only cause is a faulty circuit board.

[ro63rto]

Hi George.

Thanks for going to the effort, much appreciated.

If I find out that any of my coils are bad I know who can sell me replacements at least [emoji106]

Edited September 14, 2015 by ro63rto

[GeorgeClarkson]

If someone is wondering how a 7T34 (any 7txx series Seiko Chrohograph for that matter) looks inside, here is the movement I was inspecting for ro63rto:

 

 

Sorry for the overly exposed picture, but my mobile phone sometimes just gets it all wrong...

[GeorgeClarkson]

BTW I also found another foult in this movement: the spring that acts on the clutch (in the image at the center, bottom) so that one can adjust the time or the date should force against a plastic post on the base plate, which is broken. This causes that the quick date setting is not possible, but it is still possible to set the hour correctly. The plastic post should be at the end of the "U" formed by the metal spring.

 

I do not have another base plate for the 7T34 movement among my spares, which apparently almost 50% suffered this fate. I do not have the means to rebuild this plate (I would have to glue or solder a similarly shaped post on the plastic base plate) so I guess this this movement will be used only just for spares, and not to rebuild a complete watch, as I hoped.

[ro63rto]

Picking up from a while ago, I had put this one away until such time that I could have a permanent work area.

This still hasn't happened BUT I did keep my eye out for cheap spares etc.

Got another 6a00 in well used condition hoping for something usable.

Soon as I opened it......

Can you see it [emoji35]

Oh well, hopefully other parts are usable. Might just have to get down on my knees and beg Mr G Clarkson to make one good one from these two if possible as my eyes seem to be getting worse [emoji20]

[rogart63]

Have a lot of parts. I am not hundred % with you on the plastic parts . But can have a check how my plates look. Have many coils and gears from an old watchmakers estate lying around so that i can fix? 

[GeorgeClarkson]

No need to beg, Ro63rto just ask if rogart63 does find his spares, I guess makes more sense to send it to him, though, since I live in Germany. Let me know anyway.

[rogart63]

Have a lot stuff. But i am not sure exactly which part u are looking for. On my parts it's says Y157A  or Y152A but they work in my 7T34 . 

Or is it the part that is on top? 

Base plate i have a few of those? 

But i don't think i want to tinker with it? 

Send me a picture and i can at least see if any of my plates is good. Say Y157A at the box . 

Edited July 1, 2016 by rogart63