Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Looks like someone really squeezed the lugs down on this guy. At the case the lugs are 18mm apart. At the ends they're 16 and 15.5mm.

Before I snap them off trying to fix it, is this something I'd be better off bringing to a local jeweler instead, or can it safely be done at home?

20231231133401604.thumb.png.82b83e9e214bf42506ecabcd045c61b6.png

Posted
34 minutes ago, oldhippy said:

Do you know what the case is made of? 

Looks like brass from the inside.

30 minutes ago, RichardHarris123 said:

How are lungs held on? Are they soldered?  Heat would help but if soldered too much heat would melt the solder.

I haven't a clue. I was thinking heat, but I'm also thinking discretion may be the better part of valor here. I'll have a chat with my local jeweler this week and let you know what he has to say.

Posted

I normally just bend them back to specs by eye with soft-jawed pliers, sometimes the area where the lug is attached has enough material to also grab and that would take the pressure off of the solder joint, I have also seen a spreader used.....good luck and Happy New Year

Posted

My jeweler gave me the same advice. He said he'd just do the same thing I could do at home.

So I put some tape on my smooth-jaw pliers and gently started bending. I got them just open enough for an 18mm strap.

After some careful reshaping of the hour hand, some crystal struggles, and a little more lug tweaking, it sure looks nice on my wrist.

20240102_174816.thumb.jpg.d0daa9608933713f07eac8b4c38977ca.jpg

20240102_174730.thumb.jpg.41fa083fc9994016425c98880e3c2849.jpg

20240102_174709.thumb.jpg.510695b050977925d7f93172045886da.jpg

  • Like 4
Posted

I had a strange thought strike me that maybe the lugs were designed to be tapered in, but then on closer inspection of the picture they seem to be uneven and not a deliberate designed look, just to be sure I just looked around the web and it seems you were 100% right and they should be parallel:

image.png.1c0d7f63513ec8343b8e423b295bc83d.png

Great work!

  • Like 1
Posted
16 hours ago, Waggy said:

just to be sure I just looked around the web and it seems you were 100% right and they should be parallel:

Oh weird, your post just showed up for me!

I also had the same thought as you, but luckily I have that other President case, and the lugs are aggressively parallel.

20221225_000305.thumb.jpg.7019b6b8838200894e9863a9f5f688d5.jpg

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • If the watch is new, just return it to the seller for a refund or replacement.
    • Keevo, Welcome to the group ! I'm thinking that you have some damage to the hour, and/ or minute wheel. Possibly just a bent, otherwise damaged, or missing tooth.   Your photo didn't post that I can see. I think you'll have to open it to start really finding the issue. Best, Randy
    • An industrial break cleaner , like Holts does a good job of rinsing off paraffin 
    • In cap jewels on several watches I have serviced over the years. I've recently serviced a couple of Longines movements where the cap jewels were colourless. They are a real pain. Without colour they disappear when immersed in any liquid for cleaning 😲 Not necessarily. Cousins do a 10ml bottle for £26 which will last me for years. That's just half the price of a simple Bergeon silicone cushion, so not too expensive 🤣
    • I wanted to post an update as I have two movements running really well now, 230-250 amplitude , 0.5 and under beat error, and +/-8 seconds or so. I removed the hairspring assembly in order to start over and noticed that the terminal curve between the stud and regulator arm was distorted. The stud was lower than it should be. I massaged the curve to look pretty good and reinstalled it. I followed Alex's video advice, best I could with 10x magnification, and with the regulator arm set in the middle of the curve I adjusted the stud so the spring was centered. I then made sure I could move the regulator arm the entire terminal curve without upsetting the coils. I then put it back on the Timegrapher and began closing down the regulator pins until I saw a change in amplitude which means to me that the pins were now pinching the spring. I opened them slightly and it looks good except I have a 0 on dial down, +3 on dial up but -16 on crown down.  I'm a bit stuck on how to adjust out the positional error. I also noticed a drop in amplitude, 180-200 on crown down. In the other video link I posted at about minute 26 if I remember he adjusts out positional error by manipulating  the regulator pin gap. With crown down the hairspring falls away from the pin and the rate slows so he closes the pins a bit to keep them tighter in crown down position. That means the spring is tighter on dial up as well but then he moved the regulator arm to slow the movement.  There must be some Seiko experts here that have some methods for dialing out positional errors. 
×
×
  • Create New...