Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Yesterday I serviced a vintage watch (AS1286) & it was 2.6 ml out of beat. I adjusted by moving the hairspring a touch via a screwdriver & unfortunately I touched the spring and misshaped it and it took a long while to reshape.

The question is will I get the same result if I move the roller table as this looks a lot easier & less risky.

Posted

You should be able to get it in beat my moving the roller table relative to the balance staff.

I don't really understand what you did with the screwdriver that bent the spring?

Posted

You should be able to get it in beat my moving the roller table relative to the balance staff.

I don't really understand what you did with the screwdriver that bent the spring?

I had the balance staff on a tack went in with my smallest screwdriver & twisted the collet. As I retrieved my screwdriver I caught one of the coils & bent it. It,s a very small spring & it took an age to get it back to the correct shape.

I HATE HAIRSPRINGS :crazysmile:

  • Like 2
Posted

I share your pain, hate hair springs.  If the balance has a regulator lever, you should be able to adjust the beat independently from the timing lever.

Posted

On the older movement type, where to remove the balance and hairspring, you have to pull out that horrible little brass tapered rod, which grips the hairspring into a tiny hole. What do people do to adjust the beat? Removing that horrible little brass tapered rod several times, or dangling the hairspring and trying to inject a screwdriver to the collect, I have found both options equally as dangerous (or should I say disastrous).  Is there a different method?

Posted

On the older movement type, where to remove the balance and hairspring, you have to pull out that horrible little brass tapered rod, which grips the hairspring into a tiny hole. What do people do to adjust the beat? Removing that horrible little brass tapered rod several times, or dangling the hairspring and trying to inject a screwdriver to the collect, I have found both options equally as dangerous (or should I say disastrous).  Is there a different method?

Removing the brass pin is easy just use stiff tweezers & leave it attached to the balance bridge for stability. Re-fitting is however more difficult.

The method I use is a pin vice & fit a nice new pin which come in nice long lengths so easy to manipulate & then snip off to the correct length when fitted.

Posted

I watch this yesterday . I don't now if you have seen it before?  

Thanks Rogart yes I have seen the vid & very good it is too. He does make it look easy

Posted

Having a supply of wedge pins would help me a lot too, as I've discovered that they make quite nice little rockets. I'm not sure were to get them, though, my usual stateside suppliers don't seem to have them. Any suggestions as to a source?

 

Thanks!

 

David S - who is currently confusing aerospace and horology.

Posted

 

He does make it look easy

But is not... :) I'm still on my practice hairsprings and boy, what a mess!

 

Cheers,

 

Bob

Posted

Having a supply of wedge pins would help me a lot too, as I've discovered that they make quite nice little rockets. I'm not sure were to get them, though, my usual stateside suppliers don't seem to have them. Any suggestions as to a source?

 

Thanks!

 

David S - who is currently confusing aerospace and horology.

 

Actually, that's not true. Otto Frei has assortments.

 

David S - who is currently just confused

Posted

Actually, that's not true. Otto Frei has assortments.

 

David S - who is currently just confused

Also it,s a simple job to file down a brass pin to fit if the correct size is not in your store cupboard.

  • Like 1
Posted

I definitely understand that feeling of destroying the hairspring. I recommend removing the balance complete and rotating the collet to get it in beat. Takes a while sometimes but safer.

I don't recommend rotating the roller because the balance was statically poised with the roller in that position. Rotating it will change timing results.

I find filing brass and then rolling it between two anvils makes pins pretty easy. Also I prefer to put a flat on one side of the pin to help hold the hairspring tighter in the stud. And I have a pair of modified tweezers where one end is longer than the other this helps installing and removing.

Through watchmaking I restore connections in people's lives!

  • Like 1
Posted

Very good advice Agoldflam, I forgot about the effect of moving the roller table in relation to the overall balance of the assembly.

Posted

Thanks Guys I have been thinking about this and until I come up with a better method I will remove the balance complete for safety as Agoldflam recommends 

Posted

Excellent advice Agoldflam, I forgot about about the balance being poised with the roller table attached!

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I sure appreciate your comment! I will look into one of those or maybe something similar. I of course will check your video to have a better idea.  by the way, that’s a beautiful lathe! Mine is a little peersless, but I just bought a Boley & Leinen that is on its way. That’s the one I am looking a motor for. It comes with a motor, but I want to replace it for  one that has a speed controller.
    • Indeed. I would not attempt one. Here is my messy Sherline setup
    • This conversation is becoming a very confusing. The etachron system is a very nice system for manufacturing watches. As you know it consists of two components the stud and the regulator pins. Beautiful thing of this system is you can open up your regulator pins center the hairspring and as you close the pins they will close equally on both sides providing you centered it in the first place. It's not like you're going to become closer to one side or the other as the definition of the regulator pins is a bit confusing it's not exactly a slot sort of. I'm thinking maybe a little eight reading will be helpful for you. Then the file name was changed by me at the US patent but the wording of Seiko may or may not actually be attached to it soared up? I just did that so I can find it in my files. Normally patents are in people's name if they work for a company the company name will be there you'll notice the person lives in Japan which is interesting as the name would imply that this is a Swiss product. Somewhere I think I have the patents for the stud and I believe that is Swiss like a lot of things their Japanese and Swiss and then the Japanese let the Swiss name stand as it seems you more popular in case as you read up on the patents of the regulator pins or pin will see and it should explain exactly how and why it works also why it's important to always close at an open in specific directions because the pins actually have a shaped to them it's very hard to see the shape as it's very tiny.   As a reminder with this system it's mass-produced. I wouldn't be at all surprised if they use cameras and computers to do all of the adjustments.  The meaning of this is that the majority of watches will function as there supposed to and do what they're supposed to do the system will allow us for some minor in tolerance and has more than likely as I said no human hand is ever touched those watches that's the way they left the factory and they work fine. US2007091729A1 seiko etachron.pdf
    • These still seem stupid expensive for a bottle, but still £100 cheaper than than the Moebius ones. Anyone have any experience of these: https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/epilame-fixodrop-special-bottle-horotec
    • Yes, this is not a basic part. Here are some pictures of making one  
×
×
  • Create New...