Jump to content

Accutron center wheel loose--how to tighten??

LittleWatchShop
 Share

Recommended Posts

LittleWatchShop Distinguished Member

LittleWatchShop

Posted
Posted

This 218 Accutron center wheel (which functions like a cannon pinion) is loose resulting losing time due to slipping.

Not sure if there is a way to tighten it.

Funny thing, I had a donor so I stole the center wheel only to find that it was shorter!  Yes, the donor had no date, but the fixing watch is day-date.

image.png.fe1bdda7c36769aa56c737ca1d2182e6.pngimage.png.b4f0f350ba02030307f863e8b64d6ae8.png

 

RichardHarris123 Distinguished Member

RichardHarris123

Posted
Posted
26 minutes ago, nickelsilver said:

If you pop out the pinion and flip the wheel over it will often increase the friction. Should get it to last a few more decades.

How does that work?   Not questioning your advice but curious to the mechanics behind it  

  • Like 1
LittleWatchShop Distinguished Member

LittleWatchShop

Posted
  • Author
Posted
8 minutes ago, RichardHarris123 said:

How does that work?   Not questioning your advice but curious to the mechanics behind it  

It is something to ponder.  But...it works!  I just did it.  My guess is that there is a wear pattern established over time that is asymmetrical with respect to the post.  Flipping the wheel establishes a new friction interface.  It definitely increased the friction when I did it.

These types of "slip" systems I have seen a few times on other watches, so this is a good method to have in my back pocket!

  • Like 2
VWatchie Distinguished Member

VWatchie

Posted
Posted
7 hours ago, RichardHarris123 said:

How does that work?   Not questioning your advice but curious to the mechanics behind it

Yes, I wonder too, if we're curious about the same thing. That is, how do you remove (pop out) and reattach (pop in) the cannon pinion from the wheel?

  • Like 1
Neverenoughwatches Distinguished Member

Neverenoughwatches

Posted
Posted
12 minutes ago, VWatchie said:

Yes, I wonder too, if we're curious about the same thing. That is, how do you remove (pop out) and reattach (pop in) the cannon pinion from the wheel?

The wear is on the underside of the wheel, flipping it over the pinion leaves grip a larger surface area of that side of the wheel. 

15 minutes ago, VWatchie said:

Yes, I wonder too, if we're curious about the same thing. That is, how do you remove (pop out) and reattach (pop in) the cannon pinion from the wheel?

The two wheel arms will give up just enough space for pinion to pop in and out.

  • Like 2
JohnR725 Distinguished Member

JohnR725

Posted
Posted

unfortunately for this particular watch that is a standard problem. One of things that would happen is the lubrication on the tube that the wheel goes on would go bad to get like a rust. So locking that in place the watch would continue to drive with the wheel frozen to its tube but the gear free to rotate.. Then yes the standard practice is to flip it over and most of the time that works.

so classically on a 218 watch the description is the second hand turns but the rest of the hands do not. Yes unfortunately it's a very classic problem I would take a different lubrication other than what was recommended.

 

 

  • Like 3
VWatchie Distinguished Member

VWatchie

Posted
Posted
10 hours ago, Neverenoughwatches said:

The two wheel arms will give up just enough space for pinion to pop in and out.

OK, didn't realise it would be that "easy" (the arms look so rigid), thanks! It's a really good tip because those cannon pinions with driving wheels can be hard to come by and as John mentions it seems to be a rather common problem.

  • Like 1
nickelsilver Distinguished Member

nickelsilver

Posted
Posted
2 hours ago, JohnR725 said:

 

so classically on a 218 watch the description is the second hand turns but the rest of the hands do not. Yes unfortunately it's a very classic problem I would take a different lubrication other than what was recommended.

 

 

Yes, on an Accutron the power for the train is actually generated at the escapement, so counter-intuitively that tiny delicate index wheel generates a lot of torque by the time you get to the hands. This is why you see Accutrons still running after decades of no oil, but when you get them apart, you see pivots almost completely worn away and such.

  • Like 2

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • HectorLooi
      Hour hand won’t go past certain spot when adjusting time forwards

      By HectorLooi · Posted

      If the watch is new, just return it to the seller for a refund or replacement.
    • Randy55
      Hour hand won’t go past certain spot when adjusting time forwards

      By Randy55 · Posted

      Keevo, Welcome to the group ! I'm thinking that you have some damage to the hour, and/ or minute wheel. Possibly just a bent, otherwise damaged, or missing tooth.   Your photo didn't post that I can see. I think you'll have to open it to start really finding the issue. Best, Randy
    • Neverenoughwatches
      Diy rotary cleaning machine

      By Neverenoughwatches · Posted

      An industrial break cleaner , like Holts does a good job of rinsing off paraffin 
    • mikepilk
      Cap jewel with what looks like a circular engraving around the edge

      By mikepilk · Posted

      In cap jewels on several watches I have serviced over the years. I've recently serviced a couple of Longines movements where the cap jewels were colourless. They are a real pain. Without colour they disappear when immersed in any liquid for cleaning 😲 Not necessarily. Cousins do a 10ml bottle for £26 which will last me for years. That's just half the price of a simple Bergeon silicone cushion, so not too expensive 🤣
    • BobG
      Etachron regulation system

      By BobG · Posted

      I wanted to post an update as I have two movements running really well now, 230-250 amplitude , 0.5 and under beat error, and +/-8 seconds or so. I removed the hairspring assembly in order to start over and noticed that the terminal curve between the stud and regulator arm was distorted. The stud was lower than it should be. I massaged the curve to look pretty good and reinstalled it. I followed Alex's video advice, best I could with 10x magnification, and with the regulator arm set in the middle of the curve I adjusted the stud so the spring was centered. I then made sure I could move the regulator arm the entire terminal curve without upsetting the coils. I then put it back on the Timegrapher and began closing down the regulator pins until I saw a change in amplitude which means to me that the pins were now pinching the spring. I opened them slightly and it looks good except I have a 0 on dial down, +3 on dial up but -16 on crown down.  I'm a bit stuck on how to adjust out the positional error. I also noticed a drop in amplitude, 180-200 on crown down. In the other video link I posted at about minute 26 if I remember he adjusts out positional error by manipulating  the regulator pin gap. With crown down the hairspring falls away from the pin and the rate slows so he closes the pins a bit to keep them tighter in crown down position. That means the spring is tighter on dial up as well but then he moved the regulator arm to slow the movement.  There must be some Seiko experts here that have some methods for dialing out positional errors. 
×
×
  • Create New...