Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi.  The  obvious answer is carefully, depending how it fits, some easier than others I use my fingers ( cots on) and put it in on an angle and let it settle. If it’s a bit tight a piece of rodico and lower it in square on, never had a problem with either method, just don’t use bare hands.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Thank you both, gentlemen. As I understand it, with both methods the movement is actually "free falling" into the case, even though it is just a couple of milimeters. I though they might be some smart method which eliminates this "free fall" completely. So is it something that cannot be avoided? Am I too afraid of damaging the dial?

Edited by MartinOfPrague
Typo
Posted
9 minutes ago, MartinOfPrague said:

I though they might be some smart method which eliminates this "free fall" completely. So is it something that cannot be avoided? Am I too afraid of damaging the dial?

Not sure of a 'smart' method' but use the cushion, place the case over the movement and press the case into the cushion it a bit before you turn it over...

  • Like 3
Posted
2 hours ago, MartinOfPrague said:

Hello, can someone please advise a newbie on what is the recommended manner of putting  a movement back in the case, to prevent any damage of the dial edges?

As has been mentioned, dial on hands on, set, check fully for fouling through 24 hours and correct them, check calender and date functions correctly before placing the case and crystal over the dial and press down to close up some of the gap between the dial and inner case dial lip then spin over.  For front loaders, drop in carefully from above. As a side note some case mounting rings can be a total steward to get in afterwards, I've had a few that needed the ring on the movement first and then both placed together in the case.

  • Like 3

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hi folks, I'm doing some homework on getting a watchmaker's lathe, and it's clear I have a lot to learn. But I know one goal: I want to be able to fabricate wheels, which would require an indexing capability. I know how to use large lathes- like, giant metal lathes- but my experience is a few decades old now (but you never forget the smell of the metal cutting oil). So I'm looking to learn anew, and have a goal to get to a point where I can fabricate some basic watch parts. I also have no specific timeframe and want to do this right, so I'll be patient and learn what I need to before spending the money. I know I'm not going to get anything for a pittance, but I'm also not really able to put together the scratch for a $5-$10k lathe. What's out there for a hobbyist that can either handle some fabrication out of the box or can be relatively easily made to do so? Thanks!  
    • Hello and welcome to the WRT forum.   This usually points to broken balance pivot.  Though a watch in need of clean & lube can do the same. Easiest diag would be to  see if balance pivot doesn't stay in hole jewel of the setting, when you lift one side of balance rim with an oiler or gently with pair of tweezers. Another would be to detach balance complete from the cock and take a look at pivot under high maginfication.  Regs 
    • Ahhh, yes.  I hadn’t thought of that.  I’ve serviced quite a few of these and the first time I didn’t realise it was a ships strike pattern!  Ha ha, confused me totally until I realised.
    • Hello and welcome from Leeds, England. 
    • Hi Mike, I did, thanks. Found this clip that was really helpful:   It says Seth Thomas but it's actually the same Hermle I've been working on. I'd had it working correctly all along but hadn't noticed that the lever with the sprung end stops the hammer a bit short of the bell on the second ding at the end of the half-past sequence. If only I'd put the bell on when testing, rather than just looking at the hammer, my ears would have told me it was working,  even if my eyes didn't!  
×
×
  • Create New...