Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi everybody. I'm trying to learn this fascinating art. It's my first time and this is my first project.

I'm tryng to service myself my 2836 -2, but now i find big troubles to install again the balance wheel. After i put in properly it doesn't engage the fork pallet and the escape doesnt move.

I there a method to apply to insert the jewel on the balance right in the arm of the fork pallet? Any suggestion?

Posted

Did you check to see that the roller table jewel (impulse jewel) is still in place? It's possible it was damaged as you were removing the balance when you first took it out? Was the gear train running OK before you put in the pallet?

Welcome to troubleshooting!

Posted

From a previous post I made on the subject:-

"This is the bit that gave me the most heartache when I started.

Wind the watch 1-2 turns and check that the escapement levers flicks sharply from side to side by gently pushing it with a dry oiler or tooth pick.

If all is well, fit the balance wheel. Make sure that you position the balance jewel correctly regarding the end of the lever. Looking down on the lever, if it lying to the right, ensure that the balance jewel is even further to the right when you drop the balance into position. Vice versa if the lever is lying to the left. As you turn the balance cock into the correct position the balance jewel will automatically engage the lever and watch should start running.

As a wee aside, when oiling a watch, do not oil the pivot jewels on the escapement lever."

  • Like 1
Posted

That is sometimes a real challenge to get it in the right position . When it happens i draw a little mark with a permanent marker on the opposite of the ruby pin . Helps me to align everything up. 

Posted

Give it a couple of turns before fitting the balance, this will allow it will burst into life when you get it right.

Posted

There should be a small amount if end shake similar to the it he other wheels. If there is a lot of movement, you may have a broken pivot.

Posted

Danizzz, your description of much up/down movement of the pallet fork is an ominous symptom. The pivots of the pallet should be within their respective tiny holes. Those two points (holes) define a vertical line which should be the location of the pallet arbor at all times. If your pallet is moving up and down (not simply translocation vertically, but rocking like a see-saw) then (as Geo speculated) one or both of your pallet pivots is not securely placed in its hole. If you're lucky, you've just not implanted the pallet properly, or inadequately tightened the pallet cock screw.. More likely, I'm afraid, one of the pivots is broken. Another, less likely, possibility is that your pivots are meant to be placed in jewel holes (rather than into holes in the plates) and the jewel is cracked.

With a magnifier, you should be able to see the pallet pivot in its hole. If you don't see it there, that's a problem.

Posted

I think Geo is referring to the pallet pivot not the escapement wheel pivot which may be broken, it shouldn't move a lot , maybe the bottom one is broken, so you can't see from the top, might be worth letting down the mainspring and removing the pallet fork to check

  • Like 1
Posted

Mmmmmmh .... I think don't know how....I broke the top pinion.....it's all a seesaw here...[emoji24]

Easily done when fitting the pallet bridge.

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

Posted

My comment is a bit too late now, but its best to start with some cheap pocket watch. The parts are bigger and you get used to handle them. Then its easier to get working with wrist watch movements. And if possible, a dollar watch first as its possible to break something.

Sent from Samsung A3 with Tapatalk

Posted

I try to post a photo of my pallet fork:

attachicon.gifImageUploadedByTapatalk1442485913.799149.jpg

It seems a broken top pinion....

Bad luck. I suspect that you tried to tighten the screw down before the fork was aligned and it just broke off the pinion. We've all made mistakes. The good news is that Cousins have these at about £20.

Hope you get it sorted.

Chris

Sent from my XT1039 using Tapatalk

Posted

Thanks guys for your support. It was my first try I didn't think to go that far or ......maybe I went too far[emoji45]

The numer of the piece is 710 right?

Posted

It could be a lot worse. Something like an Omega would be three or four times that price. Yes, it's item 710 and is used on many ETA calibres so it is a 2801 part.

You can download complete parts lists and service sheets for ETA calibres from ETA or Cousins.

When refitting the fork, use plenty of magnification to see that the pinion is engaged before tightening the screws. You can also lift the fork up and down to be sure it's always engaged. Really, I do this with any wheels, forks, etc.

Best to get the base movement running and be happy with it before moving onto any complications such as date, auto or chronograph so don't be tempted to fit the date mechanism while waiting for your new part.

Cheers, Chris

Sent from my XT1039 using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Been there done that as they say :) . Good to now that it.s easy to find .According to Ofrei .All of this pallet fork should work . Unfortuanly not 2789 @Andyclient 

 

BUL 1373 30, BUL 1373.11, BUL 1373.50, BUL 1412.11, BUL 1413.10, BUL 1413.11, BUL 1413.30, ETA 2801, ETA 2801-1, ETA 2801-2, ETA 2804, ETA 2804-1, ETA 2804-2, ETA 2805, ETA 2806, ETA 2807, ETA 2810, ETA 2811, ETA 2812, ETA 2813, ETA 2816, ETA 2816-1, ETA 2817, ETA 2819, ETA 2821, ETA 2821-1, ETA 2821-2, ETA 2821R, ETA 2824, ETA 2824-1, ETA 2824-2, ETA 2824R, ETA 2825, ETA 2825R, ETA 2826, ETA 2827, ETA 2827R, ETA 2830, ETA 2830R, ETA 2831, ETA 2831R, ETA 2832, ETA 2832R, ETA 2834, ETA 2834-1 CD1, ETA 2834-2, ETA 2834R, ETA 2836, ETA 2836-2, ETA 2836R, ETA 2837, ETA 2837R, ETA 2838, ETA 2838R, ETA 2839, ETA 2839R, LON 631.1, LON 632.1, LON 632.2, LON 633.1, LON 633.2, LON 634.1, LON 634.2, LON 636.1, LON 636.2, MOV 341, TIS 3103, TIS 3104, TIS 3108, ETA 2836-1, SEL SW200, SEL SW220

Edited by rogart63
  • Like 3
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I installed the new pallet fork.

Now i have another problem.

If i Wind up very little power is trasmitted to the escape wheel.

I tried to run the gear train and every gear is engaged but if i try to wind up without the pallet fork the escape remain in his position but i think it has to spin freely....[emoji79]

Help please!

Posted

I installed the new pallet fork.

Now i have another problem.

If i Wind up very little power is trasmitted to the escape wheel.

I tried to run the gear train and every gear is engaged but if i try to wind up without the pallet fork the escape remain in his position but i think it has to spin freely....[emoji79]

Help please!

The top gear of the escape wheel is not seated in the top bridge jewel and is not engaging with the second wheel ???

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

Posted

I have repaired the train gears.

But now it's nearly impossible to let the balance wheel start. Sometimes it stops after two spin other times seems stuck in his position.

It could a torn hairspring?

Posted

So with palet removed. Gently push barrel(make sure it goes ALL the way round ) . All train wheels and escape should move freely ?? Replace palet and balance. If the balance is in correctly the watch should be good ??

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I sure appreciate your comment! I will look into one of those or maybe something similar. I of course will check your video to have a better idea.  by the way, that’s a beautiful lathe! Mine is a little peersless, but I just bought a Boley & Leinen that is on its way. That’s the one I am looking a motor for. It comes with a motor, but I want to replace it for  one that has a speed controller.
    • Indeed. I would not attempt one. Here is my messy Sherline setup
    • This conversation is becoming a very confusing. The etachron system is a very nice system for manufacturing watches. As you know it consists of two components the stud and the regulator pins. Beautiful thing of this system is you can open up your regulator pins center the hairspring and as you close the pins they will close equally on both sides providing you centered it in the first place. It's not like you're going to become closer to one side or the other as the definition of the regulator pins is a bit confusing it's not exactly a slot sort of. I'm thinking maybe a little eight reading will be helpful for you. Then the file name was changed by me at the US patent but the wording of Seiko may or may not actually be attached to it soared up? I just did that so I can find it in my files. Normally patents are in people's name if they work for a company the company name will be there you'll notice the person lives in Japan which is interesting as the name would imply that this is a Swiss product. Somewhere I think I have the patents for the stud and I believe that is Swiss like a lot of things their Japanese and Swiss and then the Japanese let the Swiss name stand as it seems you more popular in case as you read up on the patents of the regulator pins or pin will see and it should explain exactly how and why it works also why it's important to always close at an open in specific directions because the pins actually have a shaped to them it's very hard to see the shape as it's very tiny.   As a reminder with this system it's mass-produced. I wouldn't be at all surprised if they use cameras and computers to do all of the adjustments.  The meaning of this is that the majority of watches will function as there supposed to and do what they're supposed to do the system will allow us for some minor in tolerance and has more than likely as I said no human hand is ever touched those watches that's the way they left the factory and they work fine. US2007091729A1 seiko etachron.pdf
    • These still seem stupid expensive for a bottle, but still £100 cheaper than than the Moebius ones. Anyone have any experience of these: https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/epilame-fixodrop-special-bottle-horotec
    • Yes, this is not a basic part. Here are some pictures of making one  
×
×
  • Create New...