Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)
9 minutes ago, Neverenoughwatches said:

Thanks ifibrin. It doesn't really say on there what it actually is. It says what it isn't and what it does and its characteristics. Could that be because they don't want to give away the ingredients or that is simply just an alcohol that is easily available at a much cheaper price than they are offering. 

Actually I am surprised to find out that it’s a mixture of hydrocarbons and not miscible with water. It just displaces water. It’s supposed to be quite smelly and needs good ventilation to use safely.

8C6009FF-8513-4007-8531-9DB3333A42BD.jpeg

Edited by ifibrin
  • Thanks 1
Posted
4 hours ago, jdm said:

I never said ot implied that lighter fluid does any damage - of course it doesn't. I just said that with less money you can buy half a liter of pure product example

 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/142061406816?hash=item2113850a60:g:vjQAAOSwgc1axeUo

 

I'm curious how that guys prices are so low.  Roughly $13 for a half liter?  Everyone else starts at around $40.  And unfortunately he doesn't ship to the US.

Posted
1 hour ago, ifibrin said:

Actually I am surprised to find out that it’s a mixture of hydrocarbons and not miscible with water. It just displaces water. It’s supposed to be quite smelly and needs good ventilation to use safely.

8C6009FF-8513-4007-8531-9DB3333A42BD.jpeg

That's really useful.  Thank you

Posted
2 minutes ago, GregG said:

I'm curious how that guys prices are so low.  Roughly $13 for a half liter?  Everyone else starts at around $40.  And unfortunately he doesn't ship to the US.

This is the lighter fuel at 89 pence per 100mm

20220417_152639.jpg

20220417_152509.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
6 minutes ago, Neverenoughwatches said:

This is the lighter fuel at 89 pence per 100mm

20220417_152639.jpg

20220417_152509.jpg

I think I'm going to switch to isopropyl tbh at 21 quid per gallon. I need to confirm with the seller that the product is genuine. And just keep the naptha for balance and pallet clean. I can confirm  that alcohol will dissolve shellac, I used to make up french polish with meths and shellac flakes.

Edited by Neverenoughwatches
  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, GregG said:

I'm curious how that guys prices are so low. 

Yes it's not easily available in the US, probay the one you see is pharmaceutical laboratory grade, where is used to solvent for fats. Maybe you can find a more refined type of naphta. In a pinch even gasoline isn't that different, altough filled with too many additives which have nothing to do with cleaning. 

Posted

Hi @jdm, do you have a photo of your cleaning machine with the distiller?

When you distill the used alcohol, what percentage of it is lost? Is the yield affected by the ambient room temperature?

I wonder if laboratory distilling glassware can be used for this purpose.

Posted (edited)

I can't find them, but I saw a few posts of people mentioning they used a heated bath with flammable cleaning fluids.  Obvious question, is that even remotely safe?

Edited by GregG
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I broke down and purchased an Elma basket stack that has three stainless baskets about 2.5" DIA x 0.5" HIGH as well as a tiny basket that fits inside one of the other three. These stack inside the blue plastic attachment for an Elma machine. This will allow me to do a whole movement at one go rather than breaking everything out into the little tiny baskets that I had originally purchased.

  • Like 1
Posted
17 minutes ago, LittleWatchShop said:

What do you use to clean

At the moment I'm using a generic ultrasonic cleaner that I picked up on Amazon along with an ultrasonic concentrate that mixes with water. So far I have only run one set of old Elgin grade 313 parts through this. I'm likely going switch to something more watch-specific for a clean/rinse pairing. While I was careful to dry everything, I have noticed some tinges of rust here and there. I may clean again using lighter fluid with a rinse of Security Brand® Hairspring Dip.

I'm not anxious to spend $100+ on 2 gallons of L&R product at this point.

I do have lighter fluid and 99.9% IPA on hand.

  • Like 1
Posted
6 hours ago, grsnovi said:

I broke down and purchased an Elma basket stack that has three stainless baskets about 2.5" DIA x 0.5" HIGH as well as a tiny basket that fits inside one of the other three. These stack inside the blue plastic attachment for an Elma machine. This will allow me to do a whole movement at one go rather than breaking everything out into the little tiny baskets that I had originally purchased.

 

How much did it set you back? I got these chinese cheapies to retire the aluminum mesh baskets i cobbled together 11 years ago, and perhaps pass them and my pimento jars and old low-power ultrasonic onto some other beginner. 

Last year when i got back into the hobby i bought the relatively cheap brass bodied screw-together parts baskets. Since switching to an ammoniated solution i think they react too much with the ammonia. 

Digging around recently i found these reasonably priced knockoffs of some big name stainless small parts baskets: 

https://www.watchmaterial.com/basket-for-cleaning-parts-bas1/

Two of those should do me fine for containing train wheels, etc, inside the larger baskets. 

They also have some not-bad watch display boxes for watch collections on clearance. My order came with one of those awful blister-packed starter tool kits. I suspect that WM *is paylak, or their US distributor. 

 

Posted

Anytime know where similarly sized (50-60mm) baskets can be found for cheap, like on eBay or AliExpress?  Finding the small 20mm ones is no problem, but trying to find bigger ones.

Posted (edited)
On 4/19/2022 at 5:18 AM, GregG said:

I can't find them, but I saw a few posts of people mentioning they used a heated bath with flammable cleaning fluids.  Obvious question, is that even remotely safe?

 

If the heated water (only use water!) bath is 40deg or lower, and you are using a small volume of benzine in a capped glass jar, it should be reasonably safe (low risk). If you are using the benzine in an open jar, then it could potentially be more dangerous.

Do note that the manufacturer does technically discourage all use of flammable cleaning liquids, even in a capped jar, for legal liability issues. As such, you have to practice your own discretion... If you are very risk averse, then you probably should not use any flammable cleaning liquids in a heated bath at all.

Edited by ifibrin
Posted
1 hour ago, ifibrin said:

 

If the heated water (only use water!) bath is 40deg or lower, and you are using a small volume of benzine in a capped glass jar, it should be reasonably safe (low risk). If you are using the benzine in an open jar, then it could potentially be more dangerous.

Do note that the manufacturer does technically discourage all use of flammable cleaning liquids, even in a capped jar, for legal liability issues. As such, you have to practice your own discretion... If you are very risk averse, then you probably should not use any flammable cleaning liquids in a heated bath at 

1 hour ago, ifibrin said:

 

If the heated water (only use water!) bath is 40deg or lower, and you are using a small volume of benzine in a capped glass jar, it should be reasonably safe (low risk). If you are using the benzine in an open jar, then it could potentially be more dangerous.

Do note that the manufacturer does technically discourage all use of flammable cleaning liquids, even in a capped jar, for legal liability issues. As such, you have to practice your own discretion... If you are very risk averse, then you probably should not use any flammable cleaning liquids in a heated bath at all.

The water does reach a temperature of around 40 % celcius towards the end of the cleaning cycle anyway Regardless of a heating element or not. 

 

Posted
19 hours ago, ifibrin said:

 

If the heated water (only use water!) bath is 40deg or lower, and you are using a small volume of benzine in a capped glass jar, it should be reasonably safe (low risk). If you are using the benzine in an open jar, then it could potentially be more dangerous.

Do note that the manufacturer does technically discourage all use of flammable cleaning liquids, even in a capped jar, for legal liability issues. As such, you have to practice your own discretion... If you are very risk averse, then you probably should not use any flammable cleaning liquids in a heated bath at all.

You know, now that I'm thinking back to it, when we used to make stuff in my lab in grad school, we'd ultrasonic it with acetone and then isopropyl alcohol, both in open breakers, and I never had a problem.  We didn't heat the bath, but I've heard people talk about the possibility of the ultrasonic action vaporizing and igniting the fumes, but that never happened.

Posted (edited)
On 4/29/2022 at 8:45 PM, TimpanogosSlim said:

 

Digging around recently i found these reasonably priced knockoffs of some big name stainless small parts baskets: 

https://www.watchmaterial.com/basket-for-cleaning-parts-bas1/

Two of those should do me fine for containing train wheels, etc, inside the larger baskets. 

 

 

I have 4 of these, or at least similar to these, with the soldered mesh screen and the press on cap. I kept losing parts in the cleaning process. Looking at these baskets under a microscope and it's easy to see why. There are multiple gaps everywhere. I've since bit the bullet and bought some of the Bergeon mini baskets and they are FAR superior and IMO, worth the price.

Edited by GuyMontag
Posted (edited)
57 minutes ago, GuyMontag said:

I have 4 of these, or at least similar to these, with the soldered mesh screen and and the press on cap. I kept losing parts in the cleaning process. Looking at these baskets under a microscope and it's easy to see why. There are multiple gaps everywhere. I've since bit the bullet and bought some of the Bergeon mini baskets and they are FAR superior and IMO, worth the price.

Does anyone ever get worried that a fine pivot (such as escape wheel pivot) gets caught in one of the mesh holes during the cleaning process, and gets bent or broken when the wheel gets subjected to spinning during cleaning?

Edited by ifibrin
Posted
7 hours ago, ifibrin said:

Does anyone ever get worried that a fine pivot (such as escape wheel pivot) gets caught in one of the mesh holes during the cleaning process, and gets bent or broken when the wheel gets subjected to spinning during cleaning?

I have never worried about the escape wheel.  However, I am careful about the center wheel because it has a long pivot that can go through the mesh of my L&R spinning machine.  I make sure it does not protrude downward into the lower basket and not the upper lid mesh.

  • Like 1
Posted
On 4/30/2022 at 6:02 AM, GregG said:

Anytime know where similarly sized (50-60mm) baskets can be found for cheap, like on eBay or AliExpress?  Finding the small 20mm ones is no problem, but trying to find bigger ones.

There's a deep morass of dirt cheap potential ad-hoc baskets on aliexpress if you search for things like "stainless infuser". 

The trick is finding one that fits the jars you are using and has the features you want. 

 

Posted
14 hours ago, ifibrin said:

Does anyone ever get worried

As a beginner, I'm hoping that all of the worrying has already been done by the pro's. Most of the guys doing watch restoration videos on YT seem to use watch cleaning machines and pop their parts into various mesh baskets and trays. I'm assuming that following a similar route I should be fine unless/until catastrophe strikes.

So far I haven't been attempting to service anything other than practice movements so, no - at this time I'm not worried.

Posted
17 hours ago, ifibrin said:

Does anyone ever get worried that a fine pivot (such as escape wheel pivot) gets caught in one of the mesh holes during the cleaning process, and gets bent or broken when the wheel gets subjected to spinning during cleaning?

They do ifibrin good point. It has happened to me a couple of times, not so much of a problem bending a pivot in the ultra sonic but you have to be really careful getting it out of the basket afterwards.

  • Like 1

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hi Mike I did a ships clock a long while ago, not a Hermle though and without getting the beast in my hands to refresh my memory I can’t recall the timing.  This doesn’t help I know but will start the grey matter turning.
    • Of course it will continue Richard.
    • I have stripped and cleaned a Hermle ships clock. It was just oily, no major faults, and I reassembled it, following my photos in reverse order. The time train is fine but the strike train will not play the ships bell strike for half-past. Ships bells play a four hour sequence for the 'watches' and play double 'ding' for the hour and the double dings plus one for the half past (eg half past the second hour is 'ding-ding' 'ding-ding' 'ding'). Sounds complicated but it isn't really. The strike wheel consists of pairs of bumps (for the ding-ding) and no single bumps. There must me some mechanism on the half-past that lifts the strike lever over one of the bumps so only one ding is played. When I get to a half past, it still plays double ding. I have a feeling it is to do with the lever in front of the rack (there is a sprung attachment  on it) and the position of the wheel (to the right) with the two pins that lets that lever fall, but no matter where I place that wheel I cannot get a single ding at half past! Please can someone help with advice on positioning so I can fix this? BTW Happy Easter 🐣 
    • No it's not 52. I had looked at the Pocket Watch lift angles thread, which lists Elgin 6s as something really high like 62° but visually that is not at all what this watch is doing. I think 42° is more correct and that's where my machine is setup. The watch has a million problems but I have made solid progress. Impulse jewel replaced. Hairspring didn't match the balance (which also doesn't match the serial) but I got it down into range this weekend with 8 or 10 huge timing washers. Replaced the mainspring, balance and train are nice and free. At this point it is running consistently and in beat at about 160°, the third wheel has a bend that sends the timegrapher on a little roller coaster every 8 minutes or so. Remaining amplitude problems may be down to the escapement. The banking pins were way out and it didn't run at all before I started. It has one of the old brass escape wheels rather than steel, and I assume the faces its teeth are probably worn or scored in a way I can't yet fix (or see without a microscope). I know this watch is not going to run above 250° but I am going to keep trying to get above 200. But the best part about this watch? Some unscrupulous person stamped "21 JEWELS" on the train bridge sometime in the past, right on top of the Damascening. It's a 15 jewel movement.
    • I think it would rather be the blast of high current drain that would do the damage. But if used occasionally to maybe fix a mainspring or do dial feet it might be worth trying especially if the mainspring or a replacement couldn’t be found.    Tom
×
×
  • Create New...