Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

The watch is a front loader.  Crystal is missing and I don't have the original.  I installed a generic crystal but had movement in the movement. Does anyone know what type of crystal I need for this watch?

IMG_5730.JPG

IMG_5731.JPG

IMG_5732.JPG

Posted

Is that a flat or curved dial?  Benrus and Hamilton both made GG-W-113 watches using a movement from the ETA 2750 family, but Benrus generally used curved dials while many Hamiltons were flat. Your hands look more like a Benrus model, so I wonder if the dial is a mismatch for the case, which could complicate the fit and seal of the crystal. 

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Posted (edited)

I just serviced one of these….

A different board suggested a Stella 24 1/2 was the ideal replacement so I ordered one on the Ebay but received the wrong one so I refurbished the old one.  I was concerned the replacement wouldn’t secure things- I suspect that’s what you’re thinking as well?

Here’s some pics of the original- to me looks like an ordinary hi dome or something but there isn’t a large edge…

IMG_1167.thumb.jpeg.adb463572d888d3e73009a5e1b56b6c5.jpeg

IMG_1168.thumb.jpeg.66a3ee244f8aa9fae95d57367b1f72a3.jpeg

IMG_1182.thumb.jpeg.12248c5b1d15537c9796fd82f1c96916.jpeg

 

9 minutes ago, Geotex said:

Is that a flat or curved dial?  Benrus and Hamilton both made GG-W-113 watches using a movement from the ETA 2750 family, but Benrus generally used curved dials while many Hamiltons were flat. Your hands look more like a Benrus model, so I wonder if the dial is a mismatch for the case, which could complicate the fit and seal of the crystal. 

Here’s what mine looked like in the case…

IMG_1155.thumb.jpeg.10bda48f8d9b21bd3ef6617f1e9b092b.jpeg

This one was inherited by the sister of a deceased USAF pilot so definitely all original Hamilton. From your pic your dial does look like it may be curved…

Edited by rehajm
  • Thanks 1
Posted

Movement is marked Hamilton. Dial edge is domed.  I ordered a Stella 24 1/2 crystal.  I'll let you know if it fits.

  • Like 1
Posted
10 hours ago, markr said:

Movement is marked Hamilton. Dial edge is domed.  I ordered a Stella 24 1/2 crystal.  I'll let you know if it fits.

Your response popped up for me this morning so I went to look for the thread I saw re: the Stella crystals. I didn’t find it but this thread may have some insight on the dial differences and best crystal options…

https://www.watchuseek.com/threads/hamilton-gg-w-113-questions.35726/

  • Thanks 1
Posted

Stella 24 1/2 was not close. It looks like it might need a chapter ring or something to hold the movement.  Does anyone know if this had a chapter ring? 

Posted

No, no chapter ring. I still wonder about the dial. Does it look like a flat dial would better meet the plane of the crystal base and minimize play as in the photo above from rehajm? You can also see the typical Hamilton dial for this model in this walkthrough:

http://www.hamiltonchronicles.com/2015/10/1976-gg-w-113-military-watch.html

If you check the very edge of your curved dial, does it have a thin capital "T" printed above the 12? If so, that would be a big clue because it would signify a Benrus dial that was not original to that case.  There is a lot of mixing and matching going on as people have cannabilized military watches in order to put together things to sell, so you wouldn't be the first trying to sort out a frankenwatch...

  • Thanks 1
Posted

Apologies that the Stella didn’t fit - and also that I didn’t take measurements of the old crystal I polished up and re-used…🙁

Based on your first photo I can see wear around the dial where there was clearly something pressing into the finish- like the ledge on a crystal. 

Looking closely at the numbers like the zero in 10 and the 4 , these are quite different yours and mine.

Here’s the Benrus ‘Bullit’…

IMG_1432.thumb.jpeg.19248c70df0923f93b41d47a916c835f.jpeg

Crystal comes closer to the edge of the hour marker lume. Also no tension ring but a fat lip on the crystal. Maybe look for a deep lip crystal and measure the diameter of the bezel and add a tenth mm or two? 

 

2 hours ago, Geotex said:

There is a lot of mixing and matching going on as people have cannabilized military watches in order to put together things to sell, so you wouldn't be the first trying to sort out a frankenwatch...

The mixing and matching was very common when these were in the military as well. Could easily be a service watch…

  • Thanks 1
  • 1 month later...
Posted (edited)

I know this is a late reply, but I just repaired a 1969 Hamilton GG-W-113 and went through the crystal debacle. I bought 4 crystals from ofrei.com. The crystals I purchased are as follows:

 

Stella 27 1/4 - "LD" low dome wedge ledge 

Stella WEC 27 1/4 - High dome wedge ledge

Stella 27 - "LD" low dome wedge ledge 

Stella WEC 27 - High dome wedge ledge

 

I installed the size 27 WEC crystal first but it spun in the case and was just a little to small. I then installed the size 27 1/4 WEC and it worked as intended. No spinning and the height of the dome was good as well. This is for the Hamilton watches with the ONE PIECE CASE design.

 

Hope this helps, 

 

Edited by yjstevp
  • Thanks 1
  • 2 weeks later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • If the watch is new, just return it to the seller for a refund or replacement.
    • Keevo, Welcome to the group ! I'm thinking that you have some damage to the hour, and/ or minute wheel. Possibly just a bent, otherwise damaged, or missing tooth.   Your photo didn't post that I can see. I think you'll have to open it to start really finding the issue. Best, Randy
    • An industrial break cleaner , like Holts does a good job of rinsing off paraffin 
    • In cap jewels on several watches I have serviced over the years. I've recently serviced a couple of Longines movements where the cap jewels were colourless. They are a real pain. Without colour they disappear when immersed in any liquid for cleaning 😲 Not necessarily. Cousins do a 10ml bottle for £26 which will last me for years. That's just half the price of a simple Bergeon silicone cushion, so not too expensive 🤣
    • I wanted to post an update as I have two movements running really well now, 230-250 amplitude , 0.5 and under beat error, and +/-8 seconds or so. I removed the hairspring assembly in order to start over and noticed that the terminal curve between the stud and regulator arm was distorted. The stud was lower than it should be. I massaged the curve to look pretty good and reinstalled it. I followed Alex's video advice, best I could with 10x magnification, and with the regulator arm set in the middle of the curve I adjusted the stud so the spring was centered. I then made sure I could move the regulator arm the entire terminal curve without upsetting the coils. I then put it back on the Timegrapher and began closing down the regulator pins until I saw a change in amplitude which means to me that the pins were now pinching the spring. I opened them slightly and it looks good except I have a 0 on dial down, +3 on dial up but -16 on crown down.  I'm a bit stuck on how to adjust out the positional error. I also noticed a drop in amplitude, 180-200 on crown down. In the other video link I posted at about minute 26 if I remember he adjusts out positional error by manipulating  the regulator pin gap. With crown down the hairspring falls away from the pin and the rate slows so he closes the pins a bit to keep them tighter in crown down position. That means the spring is tighter on dial up as well but then he moved the regulator arm to slow the movement.  There must be some Seiko experts here that have some methods for dialing out positional errors. 
×
×
  • Create New...