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I wanted to post an update as I have two movements running really well now, 230-250 amplitude , 0.5 and under beat error, and +/-8 seconds or so. I removed the hairspring assembly in order to start over and noticed that the terminal curve between the stud and regulator arm was distorted. The stud was lower than it should be. I massaged the curve to look pretty good and reinstalled it. I followed Alex's video advice, best I could with 10x magnification, and with the regulator arm set in the middle of the curve I adjusted the stud so the spring was centered. I then made sure I could move the regulator arm the entire terminal curve without upsetting the coils. I then put it back on the Timegrapher and began closing down the regulator pins until I saw a change in amplitude which means to me that the pins were now pinching the spring. I opened them slightly and it looks good except I have a 0 on dial down, +3 on dial up but -16 on crown down. I'm a bit stuck on how to adjust out the positional error. I also noticed a drop in amplitude, 180-200 on crown down. In the other video link I posted at about minute 26 if I remember he adjusts out positional error by manipulating the regulator pin gap. With crown down the hairspring falls away from the pin and the rate slows so he closes the pins a bit to keep them tighter in crown down position. That means the spring is tighter on dial up as well but then he moved the regulator arm to slow the movement. There must be some Seiko experts here that have some methods for dialing out positional errors. -
By rjenkinsgb · Posted
Like these? https://www.watch-tools.de/metal-straps/springbars/assortment-360-strong-spring-bars-beco-inox-o-1-8mm.php -
I've seen them on several swiss-made movements as well. Last one was a Tissot if I remember correctly. -
This thread might be interesting for you:
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I've never seen them, then again, I haven't got a ton of experience, but "common"? Really? In what context have you seen them? I'm not questioning you. I am sincerely curious why I've missed it. An alternative to Fixodrop is to apply less oil (no more than 50 % of the circle area). The only downside would be that it would shorten the service interval. More oil will prolong the service interval, but if the movement is subjected to trauma, there's a risk it will be displaced. Fixodrop makes it more stable. Unfortunately, Fixodrop is seriously expensive.
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