Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Newby hobbyist here.

Working on AS2066 and facing an issue. The top cap jewel is held in place by some type of a washer with three teeth. I have seen AS2066 with typical incablocks, but this contraption ain't it. It rotates around, but there seems to be no way of yanking it out.

I cannot figure out how to remove or adjust this spring to keep the cap tightly pressed against the lower jewel.

Any help is appreciated.

image.thumb.png.69c0f1acec43a798741952905dba5bc9.png

Posted
7 hours ago, Dmitry said:

Newby hobbyist here.

Working on AS2066 and facing an issue. The top cap jewel is held in place by some type of a washer with three teeth. I have seen AS2066 with typical incablocks, but this contraption ain't it. It rotates around, but there seems to be no way of yanking it out.

I cannot figure out how to remove or adjust this spring to keep the cap tightly pressed against the lower jewel.

Any help is appreciated.

image.thumb.png.69c0f1acec43a798741952905dba5bc9.png

Pretty sure this is a swiss ruby neutro shock, your picture is not clear enough but there aren't many like this stupid design. Vibrax is another but the catalogue shows a steel cap. Ive stripped a similar one down which i think is from a citizen,  japan also used some neutro shock types. Clipping off the stud holder releases the regulator arm then you can get in with a sharp blade to prise the setting out of the cock. This is about as far as you can go with disassembly unless you want to risk bending up the spring prongs . Getting them pressed back down tight over the cap will be near impossible. I thought the setting had a seam at the bottom end that might press apart, so i gave it a go . It came apart but nevet to be reassembled, split in half and from inside there is no seam so everything goes in from the front. Personally i would break it down to the setting and flush it out best you can then push oil in from the underside with a whisker. Of course yours may not be identical, so post more pictures as you strip it down.

20240302_105347.jpg

20240302_105610.jpg

20240302_105640.jpg

20240302_105943.jpg

17093792073006442345542745089719.jpg

20240302_114421.jpg

20240302_120745.jpg

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 2
Posted

The primary reason I unloc the setting is to check the jewels for damage.

So with the jewels in place, clean in ultrasonic machine, then if the oscilator is happy with the jewels ; ie  oscilating freely for at least 30 second with a mild blow from puffer,  call the jewels clean and undamged. 

This setting is no worse than rub-in ones, just as bad.🤠

Good luck.

  • Thanks 1
  • 10 months later...
Posted
On 3/2/2024 at 6:24 AM, Neverenoughwatches said:

Pretty sure this is a swiss ruby neutro shock, your picture is not clear enough but there aren't many like this stupid design. Vibrax is another but the catalogue shows a steel cap. Ive stripped a similar one down which i think is from a citizen,  japan also used some neutro shock types. Clipping off the stud holder releases the regulator arm then you can get in with a sharp blade to prise the setting out of the cock. This is about as far as you can go with disassembly unless you want to risk bending up the spring prongs . Getting them pressed back down tight over the cap will be near impossible. I thought the setting had a seam at the bottom end that might press apart, so i gave it a go . It came apart but nevet to be reassembled, split in half and from inside there is no seam so everything goes in from the front. Personally i would break it down to the setting and flush it out best you can then push oil in from the underside with a whisker. Of course yours may not be identical, so post more pictures as you strip it down.

20240302_105347.jpg

20240302_105610.jpg

20240302_105640.jpg

20240302_105943.jpg

17093792073006442345542745089719.jpg

20240302_114421.jpg

20240302_120745.jpg

Yep, that's the little beastie. And you saved me alot of trouble because I was going to try and dig in and figure it out. Nope. I'm gonna oil in situ and call it good. Many thanks again. 

On 3/2/2024 at 7:24 AM, Nucejoe said:

The primary reason I unloc the setting is to check the jewels for damage.

So with the jewels in place, clean in ultrasonic machine, then if the oscilator is happy with the jewels ; ie  oscilating freely for at least 30 second with a mild blow from puffer,  call the jewels clean and undamged. 

This setting is no worse than rub-in ones, just as bad.🤠

Good luck.

Neverenoughwatches brought me here and I'm glad he did.

So I had sent both of them thru my ultrasonic after I had inspected them under my scope; they looked fine. After 2nd look I'll oil thru the hole jewel and call it good, and see how the balance spins. Thanks!

Not one of the Swiss's better ideas IMHO



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hi guys. @VWatchie Those images are self hosted (not hosted on this server). Do a look at the page source and you will see this. I’m afraid, I can’t have control or backup images not hosted on this server. ( They seem to be served from here: https://qehvsw.bn.files.1drv.com/) This server is backed up fully every night and the database is backed up and versioned every hour, all stored off site on Amazon S1 platform. It’s hard for us to lose data. Ive got a huge overhead of space on this particular server the site is served from so no worries there 🙂 Sorry all for lack of response so far, I have been extremely busy and am embarrassed to say that priorities had to be set in place for a while.  Be assured that i’ve got constant monitoring and alerts should the site be in an extended problematic state (down etc) and work on these issues if they arise.
    • Web sites are cheap. Message board are easy. Hosting both is less than 100 usd a year and small advertising would cover most of that.  In the discord group we did some 15 min poc and threw up a couple of different message boards on a domain i host.   The real value is the data / information / hive mind While I'm a rank amateur in watch repair the information and assistance on this board is invaluable. The members on here are friendly, entertaining and a wealth of knowledge This is what needs to be preserved  --Jeff
    • The post below contains the link. If you don't already have a discord account it will take you to the registration screen.  Registration is free.   https://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/31653-mark/?do=findComment&comment=279066
    • HWGIKE#57 Valex FEF 190 15 jewels Swiss lever full service and repair This one was waiting for a balance staff replacement in my cabinet parts and case cleaned up with a new balance staff and a 4th wheel as the original 4th wheel had a broken pivot for the off center second hand. I never attempted a balance staff replacement before however I received a Bergeon Molfres (i was hunting it for about 2 years) and with the help of it I managed to remove the old staff and riveted the new one in. It also received a new MS, crystal and the hole for the MS arbor was also tightened. With the new MS now it has an acceptable performance meaning that the amplitude goes up to 280 fully wound, has an acceptable beat error and I have the two nice lines but only dial up, dial down is not as nice and I could not figure out as why. I have the two lines but the amplitude is dropping to around 230 and the lines are a bit hairy. Both dial up and dial down the lines just go up and down without seemingly any pattern. I cleaned the movement two times, and then a 3rd time pegged out the main plate and train bridge holes but made no change. Both the HS collet and the roller table was too lose on the new staff... I did not count how many times I took the balance cock off to sort out the HS collet, the roller table and the beat error, somebody before me also shortened the HS by pushing it out a bit and it seems every time somebody is messing with the end of the HS the protruding bit is most of the time twisted bent etc. This one was probably one of the most challenging repair and service. I might take the new MS out and clean it lubricate it as I just pushed the new one in to the barrel from the retaining ring. Plus started to re-read the theory of the escapement and how to analyse the graph on the timing machine: Greiner Chronografic Record manual. I am also thinking to put the watch on a 24 hour long run with the eTimer SW it once helped me to figure out what was wrong with a watch. There is an interesting part of the Greiner record manual talking about the pallets and the end shake of the balance and pallet staff. Maybe this is my issue? Who could that possibly identify? After a few years now I am still without a clue how could watchmakers make parts I can only see with my microscope or how could/can they carry out complicated services impossible to do.. real magic..... .... ..... before I sent this post while the pics were uploading I had an idea, i was browsing the possible outcomes on the timing machine I had one for magnetism..... so I demagnetized the movement and it is not hairy now.... two really nice lines 0.2 ms beat error still a bit wavy, but a lot lot better..... argh....  
    • Hi there, welcome here.  
×
×
  • Create New...