Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hello again, any idea how I repair this bracelet. I cant remove any of the other links that don't have the little screw. The bars are bent and I want to replace. Many thanks

IMG_3375.jpg

Posted

Rusty,

Please take my comments with a grain of salt, and apologies for using incorrect terminology.  I'm a novice.  If you have enough "slack" to discard a link, you might be able to connect two of the links; a male and female. I had a Tissot with a similar bracelet, and the professional watch repair person was able to eliminate one link and adjust the length on the adjustable portion and it works fine.

 

Best,

Corky

  • Like 1
Posted
22 hours ago, Corky said:

Rusty,

Please take my comments with a grain of salt, and apologies for using incorrect terminology.  I'm a novice.  If you have enough "slack" to discard a link, you might be able to connect two of the links; a male and female. I had a Tissot with a similar bracelet, and the professional watch repair person was able to eliminate one link and adjust the length on the adjustable portion and it works fine.

 

Best,

Corky

That would be the micro adjustment on the clasp corky, but good suggestion for the op that may work.

  • Like 1
Posted

looks like a Tag Alter Ego, there are so many pin types, we had a thread on this awhile back, I think it might use the type of pin that has a groove cut in the center and tube that fits in the male part of a link and grabs in the center groove of the pin, see if you can remove one to see if the original parts are gone....material houses will have what you need

Posted

Hi Guys, many thanks for your responses and apologies for late response. Travelling with work and unable to get to watch. 

I have uploaded some pics of the pins. Some require a little screw at the end and others not. My intention was to post all them off to a US company and they will give me replacements. Wont be original as this is Tags way but should be fine. My problem is some of the links have pins but they are on the inside and there is no little screw to open or pin to push. I have no idea how to strip all the links of this bracelet. Some of the pins on the inside have warped a little and need replacing. I know the pics are not great, but hopefully it helps. Also, some of the little screws have the head worn down and I cant get the screwdriver to grip. Is there a little microdrill I can buy or how do I tackle that issue? Speaking of tackles, my congrats on the rugby 🙂 . Thanks again for looking at this.

bRACELET1.jpg

pins2.jpg

Pins.jpg

Posted

Hi. As with most bracelets there are adjustable sections and non adjustable, the non adjustable sections are pressed together with knurled head pins  aka Rolex. These need a tool to be able to pull the link ends off to enable you to alter ar replace damaged links. As mentioned they are expensive for a one off use but available on eBay ,Ali express and others

Posted

That makes a lot of sense , some links non adjustable, thank you. 

My god that is an expensive bit of kit and certainly unworthy of a purchase for a one time fix. I might just try and order the pins, not an easy task in itself. 

For the ones with the screw damaged, is there a drill option, thanks again

Posted

Hi I would think one could make a device to split the bracelet easy enough, just needs a bit of thinking out but as said as a one off , heavy price. Still a heavy price if used three times a year. When I clear my jobs off the bench I have a project or two in mind maybe add this to the list of tools to have a look at making.

Posted

Those are the cheap versions of the tools! 😂

you might be better off trying to find a NOS bracelet or an aftermarket replacement 

 

Tom

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • An industrial break cleaner , like Holts does a good job of rinsing off paraffin 
    • In cap jewels on several watches I have serviced over the years. I've recently serviced a couple of Longines movements where the cap jewels were colourless. They are a real pain. Without colour they disappear when immersed in any liquid for cleaning 😲 Not necessarily. Cousins do a 10ml bottle for £26 which will last me for years. That's just half the price of a simple Bergeon silicone cushion, so not too expensive 🤣
    • I wanted to post an update as I have two movements running really well now, 230-250 amplitude , 0.5 and under beat error, and +/-8 seconds or so. I removed the hairspring assembly in order to start over and noticed that the terminal curve between the stud and regulator arm was distorted. The stud was lower than it should be. I massaged the curve to look pretty good and reinstalled it. I followed Alex's video advice, best I could with 10x magnification, and with the regulator arm set in the middle of the curve I adjusted the stud so the spring was centered. I then made sure I could move the regulator arm the entire terminal curve without upsetting the coils. I then put it back on the Timegrapher and began closing down the regulator pins until I saw a change in amplitude which means to me that the pins were now pinching the spring. I opened them slightly and it looks good except I have a 0 on dial down, +3 on dial up but -16 on crown down.  I'm a bit stuck on how to adjust out the positional error. I also noticed a drop in amplitude, 180-200 on crown down. In the other video link I posted at about minute 26 if I remember he adjusts out positional error by manipulating  the regulator pin gap. With crown down the hairspring falls away from the pin and the rate slows so he closes the pins a bit to keep them tighter in crown down position. That means the spring is tighter on dial up as well but then he moved the regulator arm to slow the movement.  There must be some Seiko experts here that have some methods for dialing out positional errors. 
    • Like these? https://www.watch-tools.de/metal-straps/springbars/assortment-360-strong-spring-bars-beco-inox-o-1-8mm.php  
    • I've seen them on several swiss-made movements as well. Last one was a Tissot if I remember correctly.
×
×
  • Create New...