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Posted
3 hours ago, gbyleveldt said:

Any idea what adapters you use on the 3rd port

OK, you will need:

  1. A lens mount adapter that goes from your Fuji to a T-mount
  2. A T-adapter for the scope

I'm assuming the T-adapter that I already have for my Celestron EXT telescope will work on the AmScope (but we all know what assume means and I could be very wrong and need a T-adapter specific to the AmScope).

Posted
1 hour ago, grsnovi said:

OK, you will need:

  1. A lens mount adapter that goes from your Fuji to a T-mount
  2. A T-adapter for the scope

I'm assuming the T-adapter that I already have for my Celestron EXT telescope will work on the AmScope (but we all know what assume means and I could be very wrong and need a T-adapter specific to the AmScope).

Wonderful thank you! I'll start looking around for something that might work

Posted

Excellent! Even though my left eye has a retina problem, I still see depth with a stereo microscope.

I have a camera attachment coming that may or may not work with my T-mount to A-mount adapter. It should arrive next week.

Posted (edited)

@Paul80 AmScope sells a DSLR-specific adapter that (based on their photos - the one all the way on the right) seems to use an lens adapter from the proprietary lens mount to a T-mount. I should know later this coming week.

According to Wikipedia, C-mount is used on microscopes and for what it's worth, I just measured the tube that drops into the 3rd tube and it does have a female C-mount thread on the top (which would allow a C-mount lens to screw in). I want to mount my camera to the 3rd tube. I have three different camera types with different size sensors. I suspect that the device sold by AmScope to mount a DSLR will have embedded optics to compensate for the flange difference.

I have a T-mount to A-mount adapter for my Sony a65. I had purchased it to mount my Sony to my Meade EXT telescope. I also needed an intermediate from Meade to connect to the lens mount adapter. I had thought that possibly what I already had for the telescope would work for the microscope (it still might). I can return the camera mount if it doesn't work out.

Will report back after the rest of the stuff arrives but man, I'm really excited that I can see depth with the stereo scope despite my left eye problems.

Edited by grsnovi
additional clarification
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Posted
21 hours ago, grsnovi said:

@Paul80 AmScope sells a DSLR-specific adapter that (based on their photos - the one all the way on the right) seems to use an lens adapter from the proprietary lens mount to a T-mount. I should know later this coming week.

...

I suspect that the device sold by AmScope to mount a DSLR will have embedded optics to compensate for the flange difference.

I just spun around on my chair and pulled the adapter off mine. Your suspicion is confirmed. What it doesn't compensate for is the eyepiece magnification. If you have 20x eye pieces mounted, the camera (from memory) is only 2x, and you will be relying on high resolution and computer manipulation to get the image to match after the fact. Also, I think the image might be inverted... I have it all set up, but haven't had an occasion to use it really yet. My bigger issue at the moment for when I do stumble across an explicit need is figuring out how to use the actual camera...

Posted
4 hours ago, spectre6000 said:

If you have 20x eye pieces mounted, the camera (from memory) is only 2x,

So, my camera with macro lens might be a better solution in the end?

We'll see if I can get any results once the AmScope adapter arrives.

Posted

No, you still get whatever magnification there is exclusive of the eyepieces, plus the focus and working distance. The SM- head is 0.7X-4.5X on its own (base model is advertized as 7-45X w/ 10x eyepieces). Barlow does whatever it does for the Barlow you have, and then the camera adapter gets you 2X on top of whatever that is. So, if you have a 0.5X Barlow for the working distance, you'd have 0.7-4.5X at the camera. 4.5X is on the high side of a working loupe. Then, you can yell "ENHANCE!" at your monitor while zooming in and taking advantage of whatever resolution your camera has to take it from there.

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Posted

So, the camera adapter arrived today and I mounted it to my (existing) T-mount/A-mount ring and dropped that onto the scope. I then took and processed a couple of images. So far, it seems easier for me to get good images in focus using my macro lens and the ring light from the scope than using the camera mounted to the AmScope adapter. I'm attaching a couple of images (that have not been posted at full resolution) to show images from today's first attempts plus the set-up. The first shows the whole rig with the camera on top. You can see what the camera sees through the 3rd tube on the camera's screen. There is also a six inch rule standing up to give you and idea of the working distance. The second one shows the ring light over the movement pad with 2 movements. Then the image of the incabloc is the capstone on an Omega 620 and the keyless works is of the 2nd Buren Grand Prix. I struggled to get any images in focus of the Buren through the scope. I'm not sure if I want to be in focus through the eye piece or via focus peaking on the camera. I'm also not certain where I am with regard to the center of the lens and how the lens performs across its width (lenses often degrade when off center). Then, I wasn't 100% certain that the focal plane of the camera sensor was parallel to the top of the table and given the really small FOV, a slight angle could really impact image quality. So this is an exercise in learning.

 

whole rig1 - small.jpg

whole rig2 - small.jpg

omega1 - small.jpg

buren1 - small.jpg

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Posted

I don't have a trinocular scope so I got a cellphone to eyepiece adapter.  It works pretty well, other than I can only use one eye while I have it in place.  So I have to take it on and off for pictures vs working.

Picture from the phone and what the setup is like.

Balance.thumb.jpg.1ecf50effa55f8daa52c49eb18bb2ceb.jpgPXL_20220618_222422897.PORTRAIT.thumb.jpg.cd9a76c3b511f66a4a410c873d770cca.jpg

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Posted
1 hour ago, xyzzy said:

so I got a cellphone to eyepiece adapter

I hate to say it but your results from your cell phone look better than my camera results! You also seem to have an extra degree-of-freedom on your scope. I haven't given up on the camera mount yet but I might look into one of those cell phone mounts!

Odd that I couldn't find the same on Amazon as on Aliexpress?

Posted
1 hour ago, grsnovi said:

I hate to say it but your results from your cell phone look better than my camera results! You also seem to have an extra degree-of-freedom on your scope. I haven't given up on the camera mount yet but I might look into one of those cell phone mounts!

Odd that I couldn't find the same on Amazon as on Aliexpress?

I described the stand (much) earlier in this thread.  It does indeed have an extra degree of freedom over the single arm stand. 

https://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/294-stereo-microscope/page/17/#comment-164809

The rotation and transverse movement of the boom vs the post are also both free, with a linear bearing for transverse.  So you can freely move the head in the X-Y about your workspace, while maintaining a locked angle and Z distance, which means it stays in focus.

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Posted
13 minutes ago, xyzzy said:

I described the stand (much) earlier in this thread.

That's the problem with 25 page threads! 🙂 

Posted
On 6/17/2022 at 12:32 AM, grsnovi said:

So, the camera adapter arrived today and I mounted it to my (existing) T-mount/A-mount ring and dropped that onto the scope. I then took and processed a couple of images. So far, it seems easier for me to get good images in focus using my macro lens and the ring light from the scope than using the camera mounted to the AmScope adapter. I'm attaching a couple of images (that have not been posted at full resolution) to show images from today's first attempts plus the set-up. The first shows the whole rig with the camera on top. You can see what the camera sees through the 3rd tube on the camera's screen. There is also a six inch rule standing up to give you and idea of the working distance. The second one shows the ring light over the movement pad with 2 movements. Then the image of the incabloc is the capstone on an Omega 620 and the keyless works is of the 2nd Buren Grand Prix. I struggled to get any images in focus of the Buren through the scope. I'm not sure if I want to be in focus through the eye piece or via focus peaking on the camera. I'm also not certain where I am with regard to the center of the lens and how the lens performs across its width (lenses often degrade when off center). Then, I wasn't 100% certain that the focal plane of the camera sensor was parallel to the top of the table and given the really small FOV, a slight angle could really impact image quality. So this is an exercise in learning.

 

whole rig1 - small.jpg

 

You need a Barlow lens to get more working space, I found the 0.5 worked well for me but some prefer the 0.7 version, they are not too expensive so you could try both and see which one works best for your setup.

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Posted
On 6/19/2022 at 2:30 AM, grsnovi said:

I hate to say it but your results from your cell phone look better than my camera results! …

 

Don’t say that! It‘s just because the balance wheel is much bigger and less magnification is needed compared to the cap stone imho.

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Posted

This has probably been answered at some point in this thread, but I cant find it.

Anyway, how high is the eyepiece from the surface of the workbench? Will I be able to keep my current workbench and chair, or will I need a lower surface to put the eyepiece at a comfortable height? Thanks.

Posted
36 minutes ago, CJMiller said:

This has probably been answered at some point in this thread, but I cant find it.

Anyway, how high is the eyepiece from the surface of the workbench? Will I be able to keep my current workbench and chair, or will I need a lower surface to put the eyepiece at a comfortable height? Thanks.

If you have a workbench that is appropriate for watch work with an eye loupe it will be too high for a microscope.

Posted
52 minutes ago, clockboy said:

I very rarely put up vids from YouTube but this one is so informative and true it’s worth watching., It gives all the info you need with regard to microscopes and I agree 100% with his conclusion including the one to avoid.. Why? Well I purchased one 😏

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tAtATqwI5A4

But don't listen to his magnification values. That scope only gives 7X - 45X magnification. Not 450X.

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Posted
36 minutes ago, HectorLooi said:

But don't listen to his magnification values. That scope only gives 7X - 45X magnification. Not 450X.

I think he was referring to the combined magnification when you use it with the 10x eyepieces.

Posted
19 minutes ago, gbyleveldt said:

I think he was referring to the combined magnification when you use it with the 10x eyepieces.

No. Zoom magnification range is 0.7 - 4.5. Multiplied by eyepiece magnification of 10X gives 7 - 45.

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Posted
2 hours ago, clockboy said:

I very rarely put up vids from YouTube but this one is so informative and true it’s worth watching., It gives all the info you need with regard to microscopes and I agree 100% with his conclusion including the one to avoid.. Why? Well I purchased one 😏

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tAtATqwI5A4

I am a little confused with alex's description of the magnification.  The scope he uses ranges from x7 to x45 when I've looked at the specs for upgrading mine. X450 this is more at a biological level. I do use the scope that he doesnt recommend that has a x 1 objective lens with x5, x10 and x20 eyepiece . So it doesn't have the variable magnification but at x 10 mag i have a 20mm field of view which is perfectly fine for working under with 250mm of working space. So not really sure if I've misunderstood something that Alex is saying 🤔

30 minutes ago, HectorLooi said:

No. Zoom magnification range is 0.7 - 4.5. Multiplied by eyepiece magnification of 10X gives 7 - 45.

I was thinking this as well HectorLooi, i read most of the comments afterwards but it seemed like nobody picked up on it. I'd  prefer to stay away from amscope as not great reviews,  the one i use is a swift but its the same as the amscope alex does not recommend. I think a predecessor of the amscope it, it was my first purchase and second hand but works fine.

3 hours ago, clockboy said:

I very rarely put up vids from YouTube but this one is so informative and true it’s worth watching., It gives all the info you need with regard to microscopes and I agree 100% with his conclusion including the one to avoid.. Why? Well I purchased one 😏

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tAtATqwI5A4

Just noticed your comment about the scope not to buy clockboy. What was it that you weren't happy with it about ? 

Posted
2 hours ago, gbyleveldt said:

I think he was referring to the combined magnification when you use it with the 10x eyepieces.

Morning Gert, how are you matey ? Loved your latest video on the drowned seiko.  I will say though i prefer your verbal as opposed to the subtitles. I think your humor shows through better and your accent is great. Keep 'em coming  👍

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