Jump to content

404 Club Reboot  

13 members have voted

  1. 1. Due to inflation our 404 club price cap seems a little unworkable, so here are some options to re-boot ihe idea - first three are what common currency to choose (pic 1 out of 3) the rest 4-10 are the price cap (pick 1 out of the 7 options)

    • Do you think the price cap should be in equivalent US $ value?
      0
    • Do you think the price cap should be in equivalent £ value?
      7
    • Do you think the price cap should be in equivalent € value?
      0
    • How about a price cap of 8.08 (twice 4.04)?
      0
    • How about a price cap of 10.10 (to represent the hand position of pictures of watches 10:10)?
      5
    • How about a price cap of 6.99 (approximte value of 4.04 corrected for inflation)?
      4
    • How about a price cap of 6.91 (the first example of an irregular prime 691 - and lets face it we are all pretty irregular)?
      2
    • How about a price cap of 8.90 (12th number in the Fibonacci Sequence 89)?
      1
    • How about a price cap of 14.40 (13th number in the Fibonacci Sequence 144)?
      0
    • How about a price cap of 9.11 (emergency number in many countries)?
      0


Recommended Posts

Posted

I'm not saying for a second that the truly "cheap" watches aren't worthwhile (I have plenty of them too). Hopefully that's not what was conveyed. I just don't want to make it the primary focus any more than making finding a Rolex for $5 the primary focus. Anything anyone finds under the threshold they feel is worth the cup of coffee cost of entry is worth it in my book. I want the name to convey that, and not just "cheap" as that leaves out a big chunk of the fun of it. Cheap, yes, also diamonds in the rough, once in a lifetime finds, watches to learn on, and probably some other angle I'm missing.

Something like "I skipped a trip to Starbucks for this!" (which sounds way too much like a clickbait listicle title) that doesn't make any judgements on the watches themselves, simply notes the price paid was low.

  • Like 2
Posted
7 hours ago, spectre6000 said:

I'm not saying for a second that the truly "cheap" watches aren't worthwhile (I have plenty of them too). Hopefully that's not what was conveyed. I just don't want to make it the primary focus any more than making finding a Rolex for $5 the primary focus. Anything anyone finds under the threshold they feel is worth the cup of coffee cost of entry is worth it in my book. I want the name to convey that, and not just "cheap" as that leaves out a big chunk of the fun of it. Cheap, yes, also diamonds in the rough, once in a lifetime finds, watches to learn on, and probably some other angle I'm missing.

Something like "I skipped a trip to Starbucks for this!" (which sounds way too much like a clickbait listicle title) that doesn't make any judgements on the watches themselves, simply notes the price paid was low.

I get ya 👍, not a poundshop window sign that says "  cheap bargains galore " more of a " value for money treasures" moniker 

Posted
8 hours ago, Waggy said:

ha ha who knew that the name would be the toughest part

Wife and I have a baby due in 3 weeks. Still haven't figured out a name... It's maddening. Possibly actually the toughest part so far.

Posted

Maybe this has been discussed, but why not both. Keep the 404 thread going as is and start the 10.10£ club in a brand new thread! Problem solved for the purists loyal to the 404 and a new cool thread as well! 🙂

  • Like 5
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)
On 6/10/2024 at 7:03 PM, Razz said:

Maybe this has been discussed, but why not both. Keep the 404 thread going as is and start the 10.10£ club in a brand new thread!

Good thinking

Here is the page.... hope you like it!

Enjoy!

 

 

Edited by Waggy
  • Like 1

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Alex mentions the coils below the stud should remain the same as you move the regulator block along the terminal curve.  Mine do that. What he doesn’t discuss and is used in the other video is how the regulator block is used to adjust rate and positional error.  He also doesn’t mention how opening and closing the pins could and in my case does, alter amplitude  In Alex’s video once he sets the stud he never adjusts the regulator pins yet every new movement I get have the pins signing closed. 
    • The video I linked above does mention the spacing of the hairspring coils, and the importance of the regulator being able to move through its full range without distorting the hairspring - the terminal curve of the hairspring must be concentric with the regulator pins throughout the regulator’s range.  If you meticulously follow every step in this video, the regulator system should behave as intended, regardless of the brand of the movement.  Best Regards, Mark
    • Hi friends! My mother got a bunch of old watches from a horologist who was retiring, and he subsequently passed away. It's been in her studio for years, and she showed it to me today and I just fell in love with it. Sadly, I don't know a darn thing about it yet. It's quite old, or at least seems to be. It has two winding arbors, but the key is missing. The crystal appears to be some kind of yellowed plastic, which is odd- I think it was replaced at some point to possibly protect it or something. If I had to guess, it's from the mid-19th century, given that it has no keyless works and that it says "Anchor Escapement" in French. It looks to be about 18 ligne, and the case fob is positioned in the upper right corner. The face is missing the dial, the hands, and a couple of the wheels that drive the hands- I think. But the movement itself seems to be in excellent shape. The serial number on the movement matches the number on the case- it's stamped on the movement and on the case in two places. I haven't started any disassembly yet, but I'm wondering if anyone can give me some idea of what kind of movement it is, and where I might look to see what parts are missing from the face. i may even have a dial that would fit it. It's in good enough shape that I think I could get it running, assuming I could find the missing parts. Any insights are vastly appreciated and thank you! Addendum: The inside of the case has some *very* tiny scratched numbers and letters in it, but I am having an extremely hard time seeing what they are. Like "N 99" and "No192X", They were clearly done with some kind of sharp stylus and maybe they mean when it was serviced or by who? Addendum the second: At least one of the scratches seems to say "N1921X" or maybe "W1921X". Serviced in 1921? And the inside lid of the case has the letters R H with a star between them, and a very tiny mark that says "ARGENT" in a u-shape.
    • I’ve watched every video I can find on YouTube. Some of the info is contradictory and none mention  the effect on amplitude or spring coil spacing which I observed. I was hoping someone here is a Seiko expert and knows these inside out.   
    • This video explains how to set up and adjust the etachron regulator :   I hope that helps, Mark
×
×
  • Create New...