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Posted

Walked by my local jeweler today and asked if I could dig around in his old watch case, and picked this guy up (along with a cool vintage compass and a Seiko kinetic5M62). My girlfriend's son asked if he could borrow one of my pocket watches for prom, so I thought if I can get this guy running it'd be a nice prom gift.

Non-running. Felt like the balance was overbanked, but it turns out the train was jammed solid. Looks like it was just dried lubricant gluing the 3rd wheel in place, because it's clean as a whistle otherwise. Parts are in the ultrasonic right now.

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  • Like 2
Posted

Nice! I have lately been buying up a handful of Arnex pieces on eBay because it is often obvious even without photos that they house a fine Unitas 6498. And many of the 1970s cases and "old timey themed" dials are irredeemably ugly so they are a cheap way to pickup great movements to power custom wristwatch projects.

All of the ones I've bought were in like new condition, barely used assuming they were bought as graduation or retirement gifts in the 70s or 80s.

  • Like 2
Posted

My Arnex pocket watch dial is toast but has a very nice Peseux 7050 in it. I have the same thought to one day build a wristwatch with this movement!DSCN58172.thumb.JPG.aa7354a64f8e8713e998a3be9fe32d18.JPGDSCN58182.thumb.JPG.4112bcd9d4f2337bfbdca970ed2e4472.JPGDSCN58202.thumb.JPG.817fe4476dbb1467dc019ab35914c4e3.JPG

  • Like 3
Posted
7 hours ago, Razz said:

My Arnex pocket watch dial is toast but has a very nice Peseux 7050 in it. I have the same thought to one day build a wristwatch with this movement!

Definitely have a look around ebay for Arnex pocket watches. You'll find many that are still in their gift boxes, essentially new old stock Swiss movements for very low prices.

  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Finally got the mainspring in and I am pleased with these results.

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The case came up pretty nicely, too. Especially that inside cover. I'm assuming it's highly polished stainless, but it's so shiny if I didn't know better I'd say it's silver.

I found an antique silver fob to complete the look.

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And yes, I noticed the cat hair under the crystal and popped it back off.

 

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    • Did you watch the whole video? Once Alex has set the stud, he first corrects the best error, then checks that the hairspring coils are breathing concentrically, then turns the stud to centre the hairspring between the open regulator pins.  He then checks that the regulator can traverse the terminal curve without disturbing the hairspring. A correction is needed, which he performs.  He then reinstalls the balance and re-centres the hairspring between the regulator pins, and verifies that the regulator traverses the terminal curve without disturbing the hairspring.  Finally, he demonstrates how to close the gap between pins.  He then recaps the whole process, fleshing out more detail. If you follow this process, you have correctly set up the regulator pins, and are ready to set the rate of the watch.  If you are interested in learning more about the effects of the regulator pin spacing on positional rates etc, you can read any literature regarding regulator pins. The etachron system makes adjusting beat, centering the hairspring between the regulator pins and adjusting the gap between the pins very convenient, but the same rules that apply to old style regulator pins apply to the etachron system.  This video explains the basics :    I hope that helps, Mark
    • Some photos of the angles you are talking about, and the changes you are seeing to coil spacing etc. would be really useful. Part of your problem could be that you are closing the pins too far and pinching the hairspring. Adjusting the pin separation should not affect amplitude. Nor should it change the coil separation.
    • Did you try it on a Rolex ref. 16600 specifically? Congrats on the nice condition of the movement in your watch. Even so, remember to check the rotor play or those marks around the main plate may start to build up.
    • Here is a method described in the watch repair book of Mark W. Wiles. Don‘t hammer, just tap very gently!
    • Alex mentions the coils below the stud should remain the same as you move the regulator block along the terminal curve.  Mine do that. What he doesn’t discuss and is used in the other video is how the regulator block is used to adjust rate and positional error.  He also doesn’t mention how opening and closing the pins could and in my case does, alter amplitude  In Alex’s video once he sets the stud he never adjusts the regulator pins yet every new movement I get have the pins signing closed. 
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