Elgin Excelle 17j auto

Razz · May 12, 2024

Just picked this up earlier today. This find just about epitomizes vintage watch collecting for me and what really keeps me going. Hit 2 antique malls today and saw a couple of pieces at the first one but just nothing that I needed. At the second one saw a Accutron 218 but it was 20 minutes behind the actual time. These "malls" have numerous booths of a variety of sellers who likely go in once or twice a week. Considering that that watch should be within a couple of seconds a month, I figured it hadn't been phased so passed on that for now knowing it would need work to run correctly and the price tag. Then I found this Excelle in a display case. I never heard of the brand, but in was an auto and had a little heft. It turned out to be 40mm lug to lug, 35.3mm case width, and 12.3 mm thick. On the spiedel once size fits most flex band. At $10.80US with tax I immediately pulled the trigger with nothing to lose. Before pictures:

I spent a nice 30 minutes taking it out of the case and running that through the ultra sonic replacing the crystal and gasket and recasing, but spent five minutes first getting it running close on the timegrapher.

Had a new crystal already in stock. I probably could have sanbed and polished the old one, but for $3 there is nothing like a new acrylic that makes a watch pop, in my opinion. The caseback gasket was hardened and just glad it wasn't tar. Changed that as well. Here is the after Pic on a temp black strap while I decide on a leather or steel bracelet.

An added bonus was doing some research and finding out the Elgin connection and the movement is a PUW 1563T which is German I am pretty sure and probably why it doesn't say Swiss made on the dial. This movement is supposed to have a hack feature and quickset date by pushing the crown. But neither of those complications seem to be working. Not sure if the stem is cut too short because there is no gap for the crown to move. Either way at some point will need to be serviced and check the keyless works to find out what is going on with the quickset and hack of the sweep second hand.

Razz · May 12, 2024

Additional reading indicates that Elgin may have started this Excelle line seeing how Bulova was having success with Caravelle and I imagine to myself possibly others at the higher end such as Omega/Tissot and Rolex/Tudor.

Razz · May 14, 2024

New strap pictures. This one is going into the collection. Will be looking for a president bracelet I think ad well...

Razz · May 17, 2024

One final 10:10 shot on this one. Still running fine. May need a full service soon but the numbers aren't saying it has to be now. But then I don't want to damage anything because I don't know the service history.

mbwatch · May 17, 2024

The timegrapher reading is amazing for an unserviced movement.

Razz · May 19, 2024

I agree! Pretty dirty on the exterior, maybe just sat in a drawer, would not imagine that someone serviced the movement without cleaning the case.

Razz · May 19, 2024

Also the lift angle is set at 52 degrees. I can't find the LA of this PUW 1563; it could be 42 degrees which would drop the Amp quite a bit as well.

RichardHarris123 · May 19, 2024

2 hours ago, Razz said:

I agree! Pretty dirty on the exterior, maybe just sat in a drawer, would not imagine that someone serviced the movement without cleaning the case.

I have seen videos where the servicing seems of a good standard but did nothing with the case, spoiled everything. Why leave the case in such a poor condition?

Marc · May 19, 2024

58 minutes ago, Razz said:

Also the lift angle is set at 52 degrees. I can't find the LA of this PUW 1563; it could be 42 degrees which would drop the Amp quite a bit as well.

PUW1563 is the day/date version of the 1561 (date only). I have just measured a 1561 using the old "blob of paint on the rim" technique to determine the actual amplitude by observation, and then putting it on my TG and adjusting the TG lift angle until the displayed amplitude matches the observed amplitude.

I get 48°. Not a million miles away but it will have overstated the amplitude by about 20° with the TG set to 52° (I tried that as well for completeness).

So with a more appropriate lift angle set on your TG you would have got an amplitude reading of about 240°.

Razz · May 19, 2024

37 minutes ago, Marc said:

PUW1563 is the day/date version of the 1561 (date only). I have just measured a 1561 using the old "blob of paint on the rim" technique to determine the actual amplitude by observation, and then putting it on my TG and adjusting the TG lift angle until the displayed amplitude matches the observed amplitude.

I get 48°. Not a million miles away but it will have overstated the amplitude by about 20° with the TG set to 52° (I tried that as well for completeness).

So with a more appropriate lift angle set on your TG you would have got an amplitude reading of about 240°.

Thank you Marc! I re ran the TG. First I went ahead and checked the balance jewel on the regulator and it was bone dry. I cleaned and oiled it, not without some drama including pinging the capstone and searching my bench with a black light for 30 minutes and finally shone it on my face and looked in the mirror only to find it on my left cheek in my 2 day growth! Back in and on the Grapher we are at 275. However significant drop in DD (234) and CR (190 edited) positions tells me it's time for a complete cleaning and oiling.