Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Can anyone advise how to remove the crystal from a Vertex DD case ?  I think I need to unscrew an internal retainer ?  It definitely isn't just pushing out.

20240510_113730.jpg

Posted (edited)

Certainly looks like a ring that needs unscrewing in that photo. It definitely looks like a thread above the castellated ring as well. Separate to the caseback ring thread. It even looks to be a smaller diameter. I would expect that. Once undone out of its thread, it should fall out of the case.

Would it be possible to make a tool shaped like a letter H with one side of the H engaging the castellations in the ring and the other side of the H for you to be able to unscrew it using your hand? Making a tool with 6 'legs' to pick up all of the castellations would be a labour of love.

Edited by Michael1962
  • Like 2
Posted
1 hour ago, B1N9S said:

Can anyone advise how to remove the crystal from a Vertex DD case ?  I think I need to unscrew an internal retainer ?  It definitely isn't just pushing out.

20240510_113730.jpg

Is there a lip above that ring coming towards the back of the case ?

Screenshot_20240512-113932_Samsung Internet.jpg

Posted
4 minutes ago, RichardHarris123 said:

It does look like a lip, well spotted. 

Cant tell if its a lip or a section of thread. If it is lip, then i can only think that the slotted ring is spacer for the armoured crystal to push up to. There isn't much info out there about www crystals.

1 minute ago, Neverenoughwatches said:

Cant tell if its a lip or a section of thread. If it is lip, then i can only think that the slotted ring is spacer for the armoured crystal to push up to. There isn't much info out there about www crystals.

Generally they are popped off with air compression of a sealed case.

Posted

If you look in the notch to the right & blow that up, it does appear to just be the top ridges of the thread for that ring (smaller than the case back thread), as Michael1962 said.

Posted

Thanks for all the replies.  I'll investigate further.  I never noticed the lip and @Michael1962, I think I will have to form a tool to undo the ring and see what happens.

I'll see if I can get some more pics.

 

Posted
37 minutes ago, B1N9S said:

Thanks for all the replies.  I'll investigate further.  I never noticed the lip and @Michael1962, I think I will have to form a tool to undo the ring and see what happens.

I'll see if I can get some more pics.

 

Does the lip stop the notched ring coming out caseback side ?

Posted

I sort of am expecting that ring to push against the rim of the crystal and possibly a seal against the front of the case. Hence everything comes out the back.

Nothing else seems to make sense to me. I am trying to imagine why the crystal would not push out unless the ring needs to be backed off to allow the crystal to be pushed out, but then how does the ring come out?

I am new to stripping watches though and am happy to stand corrected. 🙂 

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Ok.  Update.  Checked under a microscope, there is no lip, it just looks like one.  So, I'm convinced I need to back the ring out.  I'll need to make a tool of some sort.

Edited by B1N9S
  • Like 2
Posted
2 hours ago, B1N9S said:

Ok.  Update.  Checked under a microscope, there is no lip, it just looks like one.  So, I'm convinced I need to back the ring out.  I'll need to make a tool of some sort.

🤔 so how is this relevant to the crystal coming out. I've never heard of a crystal that comes out through the back. ?

Posted
7 hours ago, Neverenoughwatches said:

🤔 so how is this relevant to the crystal coming out. I've never heard of a crystal that comes out through the back. ?

I have no idea ?  I'm new to this.  But, there is definitely a locking ring at the rear of the crystal and no detachable bezel on the front of case ?  So, I am guessing you need to back off that ring ?

There must be someone on the forum that has restored one of these ?

Posted (edited)

If the front of the case has no bezel and has an internal diameter less than the outside diameter of the lock ring, there is only one way that the crystal comes out and that is from the back.
You could always smash it and take it out the front. I’m here to help. 😉
Take a photo of the crystal side of the case. 

Edited by Michael1962
Posted
33 minutes ago, B1N9S said:

no detachable bezel on the front of case ?  So, I am guessing you need to back off that ring ?

🤔 the crystal doesn't have to fit onto a detachable bezel, it can be pressed into the front of the case. Very curious as to why there is a threaded ring inside though. I do have a record www that i could pull the movement out of but I'm away in just over an hour.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

A couple of pictures of the front…

IMG_1752.thumb.jpeg.0fe62b4c2040704a90c7bf563ba5b74a.jpeg

IMG_1753.thumb.jpeg.affc96289420f0dd6ff11528325f3601.jpeg

Sorry, I’m months away from this one, but…there is an edge to the bezel but I see no obvious signs of previous bezel removal and it is quite thick so it would be difficult to grab an edge on the crystal with a crystal lift. It does look like in/out thru the back…good luck…

Edited by rehajm
  • 4 weeks later...
Posted
On 5/16/2024 at 11:48 AM, rehajm said:

…then again it could be a recase. 

Yes, I think yours is recased.  The bezel, the case and the crystal look wrong.  Plus it has a bracelet on fixed lugs ?

On 5/21/2024 at 8:24 AM, Michael1962 said:

How did you get on @B1N9S?

Sorry, I've not been on here much.  I tried to unscrew the internal locking ring, but in the end decided to simply keep the original crystal in situ and polish it.  Looks way better and has a nice bit of patina to it.  I have finished the watch now.  Just needs regulating, as it's running a bit fast.

 

 

20240612_192824.jpg

  • Like 2
  • 1 month later...
Posted (edited)
On 5/12/2024 at 5:00 AM, B1N9S said:

Can anyone advise how to remove the crystal from a Vertex DD case ?  I think I need to unscrew an internal retainer ?  It definitely isn't just pushing out.

20240510_113730.jpg

So the Buren DD also has one of these retainer rings. Mine was stuck and thought I’d find something in my case back tools but most of the nibs are round and taper to the end so are too fat to reach down inside the case. 🙁

Welp, it had been over a week without buying another tool…In the states Amazon sells this Lyecun case back opener: 

IMG_1952.thumb.jpeg.a84a513a0cf649cba9f494da081fb097.jpeg

The nibs are the perfect fit for the notches on the retaining ring…

IMG_1953.thumb.jpeg.1d6ec44102d435ea75ee7be2acdbe56d.jpeg

I unscrewed and reversed the direction of the nibs so the flat end was against the inside of the case. Worked a charm. Perhaps there’s something in your stash of case openers that looks similar?

 

Edited by rehajm
  • Like 2

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Alex mentions the coils below the stud should remain the same as you move the regulator block along the terminal curve.  Mine do that. What he doesn’t discuss and is used in the other video is how the regulator block is used to adjust rate and positional error.  He also doesn’t mention how opening and closing the pins could and in my case does, alter amplitude  In Alex’s video once he sets the stud he never adjusts the regulator pins yet every new movement I get have the pins signing closed. 
    • The video I linked above does mention the spacing of the hairspring coils, and the importance of the regulator being able to move through its full range without distorting the hairspring - the terminal curve of the hairspring must be concentric with the regulator pins throughout the regulator’s range.  If you meticulously follow every step in this video, the regulator system should behave as intended, regardless of the brand of the movement.  Best Regards, Mark
    • Hi friends! My mother got a bunch of old watches from a horologist who was retiring, and he subsequently passed away. It's been in her studio for years, and she showed it to me today and I just fell in love with it. Sadly, I don't know a darn thing about it yet. It's quite old, or at least seems to be. It has two winding arbors, but the key is missing. The crystal appears to be some kind of yellowed plastic, which is odd- I think it was replaced at some point to possibly protect it or something. If I had to guess, it's from the mid-19th century, given that it has no keyless works and that it says "Anchor Escapement" in French. It looks to be about 18 ligne, and the case fob is positioned in the upper right corner. The face is missing the dial, the hands, and a couple of the wheels that drive the hands- I think. But the movement itself seems to be in excellent shape. The serial number on the movement matches the number on the case- it's stamped on the movement and on the case in two places. I haven't started any disassembly yet, but I'm wondering if anyone can give me some idea of what kind of movement it is, and where I might look to see what parts are missing from the face. i may even have a dial that would fit it. It's in good enough shape that I think I could get it running, assuming I could find the missing parts. Any insights are vastly appreciated and thank you! Addendum: The inside of the case has some *very* tiny scratched numbers and letters in it, but I am having an extremely hard time seeing what they are. Like "N 99" and "No192X", They were clearly done with some kind of sharp stylus and maybe they mean when it was serviced or by who? Addendum the second: At least one of the scratches seems to say "N1921X" or maybe "W1921X". Serviced in 1921? And the inside lid of the case has the letters R H with a star between them, and a very tiny mark that says "ARGENT" in a u-shape.
    • I’ve watched every video I can find on YouTube. Some of the info is contradictory and none mention  the effect on amplitude or spring coil spacing which I observed. I was hoping someone here is a Seiko expert and knows these inside out.   
    • This video explains how to set up and adjust the etachron regulator :   I hope that helps, Mark
×
×
  • Create New...