Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Until last week I knew nothing about clock repairs, but have spent the last 50 years in engineering and generally fixing anything else I can lay my hands on !

Then two clocks, both with Westminster chimes were given to me to see if I could do anything with them, so after reading lots of articles, buying an ebook, and watching some very good YouTube clips, I am now of course an expert 🫣.  One is now working again after resetting the chime barrel more by luck than judgement, and the other is in an awful lot of bits awaiting some tools and bushes, to hopefully sort out the oval holes in that as well. 

I'm surprised how interesting I have been working on these clocks, and as I have always fancied doing some sort of model engineering, this might be the ideal time to get a small engineers lathe.

I look forward to reading the items on the forum and I hope I don't ask too many stupid questions, please forgive me if I do 🙂.

Posted (edited)

Thank you for your introduction and welcome to this friendly forum.

We all look forward to your contributions and continued involvement. 

Look on ebay for a Unimat 3 lathe I have two one with the milling attachment and I have loads of accessories. I'm retired from watch clock making but clock making is what I concentrated on. The unimat 3 will handle up to Longcase clock barrels and the center wheel. So unless you are going to service Turret clocks the Unimat will do all you want.  

 

Edited by oldhippy
  • Like 2
Posted
1 hour ago, oldhippy said:

Thank you for your introduction and welcome to this friendly forum.

We all look forward to your contributions and continued involvement. 

Look on ebay for a Unimat 3 lathe I have two one with the milling attachment and I have loads of accessories. I'm retired from watch clock making but clock making is what I concentrated on. The unimat 3 will handle up to Longcase clock barrels and the center wheel. So unless you are going to service Turret clocks the Unimat will do all you want.  

 

Thanks I'll have a look. In the past I have considered a Myford Super Seven but at the time I didnt have the room for one.

Posted

The Myford is a hell of a lot bigger than the Unimat. It really depends what you are going to use it for. If you are thinking about just standard work I tell tell you you will want to get into more complicated work and you might find what you started out with is not good enough.  

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Did you watch the whole video? Once Alex has set the stud, he first corrects the best error, then checks that the hairspring coils are breathing concentrically, then turns the stud to centre the hairspring between the open regulator pins.  He then checks that the regulator can traverse the terminal curve without disturbing the hairspring. A correction is needed, which he performs.  He then reinstalls the balance and re-centres the hairspring between the regulator pins, and verifies that the regulator traverses the terminal curve without disturbing the hairspring.  Finally, he demonstrates how to close the gap between pins.  He then recaps the whole process, fleshing out more detail. If you follow this process, you have correctly set up the regulator pins, and are ready to set the rate of the watch.  If you are interested in learning more about the effects of the regulator pin spacing on positional rates etc, you can read any literature regarding regulator pins. The etachron system makes adjusting beat, centering the hairspring between the regulator pins and adjusting the gap between the pins very convenient, but the same rules that apply to old style regulator pins apply to the etachron system.  This video explains the basics :    I hope that helps, Mark
    • Some photos of the angles you are talking about, and the changes you are seeing to coil spacing etc. would be really useful. Part of your problem could be that you are closing the pins too far and pinching the hairspring. Adjusting the pin separation should not affect amplitude. Nor should it change the coil separation.
    • Did you try it on a Rolex ref. 16600 specifically? Congrats on the nice condition of the movement in your watch. Even so, remember to check the rotor play or those marks around the main plate may start to build up.
    • Here is a method described in the watch repair book of Mark W. Wiles. Don‘t hammer, just tap very gently!
    • Alex mentions the coils below the stud should remain the same as you move the regulator block along the terminal curve.  Mine do that. What he doesn’t discuss and is used in the other video is how the regulator block is used to adjust rate and positional error.  He also doesn’t mention how opening and closing the pins could and in my case does, alter amplitude  In Alex’s video once he sets the stud he never adjusts the regulator pins yet every new movement I get have the pins signing closed. 
×
×
  • Create New...