Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

I was given a 1920s? Limit pocket watch in very poor condition a few days ago. The case back was very badly rusted with deep pitting.

Someone on here advised me that the case was originally blued gunmetal, so I thought I'd see what was possible with it, to make it not quite so bad at least!

Heat bluing seemed out, as the hinge looks to be brazed in place & I did not want to risk it falling apart!

 

I got a bottle of "Jenolite gun blue" to try. First, I sanded the back to remove all visible rust, working from 1000 down to 7000 grade. There was no visible brown at that but still remains of deep pitting, that I though would take too much metal off to fully remove.

An ultrasonic clean in weak Ajax floor cleaner solution for a degrease, as I usually do with case parts, rinses in the ultrasonic then a wash with deionised water followed by IPA to ty and ensure no parts would be "un-wet" in the chemicals.

The gun blue mixes 1:3 with deionised water, then soak the parts for 15 minutes; I used a glass jar just big enough to completely submerse the case, and moved it around every couple of minutes to try and ensure an even effect. I did the bezel with a cotton bud, flat in a jar lid, glass in, and the solution applied around the outside with a cotton bud every few minutes, so it did not get on the inner silvered surface.

 

Everything had a good rinse under the tap once done, then a brief deionised water rinse & dried. The finish it totally matt black as it comes out the solution, with the black sediment rubbing off on anything it touches!

There were some traces or brown rust after it dried, so I tried boiling it for half an hour, as apparently that should convert brown rust to black??

 

Once everything had cooled and been dried out, I tried burnishing the surface with thick kitchen towel dry. That seems to work quite well, removing the loose particles and gradually brining it to a dull shine - but it's quite sensitive to pressure and a crease or fingernail pressure leaves a different level of shine to a smooth pad, until that wears through and creases....

It's not finished, my fingers are aching so giving it a break. I'm hoping the finish will even out with further burnishing, though the residual pits in the back are probably there for good & I'm not sure what to do about the traces of brown that have re-appeared.

The instructions for the chemical blue say it should be oiled as soon as dry, then left to cure for 24 hours - but I'm not sure about soaking a watch case in oil?

I did leave it overnight before boiling & burnishing.

 

It still need more work and detailing! But the effect looks promising.

 

Before:

Back.thumb.jpg.778c3892aed77bb97260feb298977bd5.jpg

Front.jpg.645f1143bd1702482f8a34b40f44e00e.jpg

 

After, still needing further burnishing. All the streaks are pressure marks, where the burnishing has smoother or removed more of the surface material.

I'm hoping that a fine brush will clean the details and edges, where a cloth cannot do anything.

 

IMG_2743.thumb.jpg.c72f3ccff72e47157be596482a0443fb.jpg

 

IMG_2744.thumb.jpg.b3f872a028e8ec789de62d2a9b0c6c3e.jpg

 

 

IMG_2745.thumb.jpg.7046d27174b0002cda9897a63e2be657.jpg

 

 

IMG_2746.jpg

Edited by rjenkinsgb
  • Like 3
  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Here is a method described in the watch repair book of Mark W. Wiles. Don‘t hammer, just tap very gently!
    • Alex mentions the coils below the stud should remain the same as you move the regulator block along the terminal curve.  Mine do that. What he doesn’t discuss and is used in the other video is how the regulator block is used to adjust rate and positional error.  He also doesn’t mention how opening and closing the pins could and in my case does, alter amplitude  In Alex’s video once he sets the stud he never adjusts the regulator pins yet every new movement I get have the pins signing closed. 
    • The video I linked above does mention the spacing of the hairspring coils, and the importance of the regulator being able to move through its full range without distorting the hairspring - the terminal curve of the hairspring must be concentric with the regulator pins throughout the regulator’s range.  If you meticulously follow every step in this video, the regulator system should behave as intended, regardless of the brand of the movement.  Best Regards, Mark
    • Hi friends! My mother got a bunch of old watches from a horologist who was retiring, and he subsequently passed away. It's been in her studio for years, and she showed it to me today and I just fell in love with it. Sadly, I don't know a darn thing about it yet. It's quite old, or at least seems to be. It has two winding arbors, but the key is missing. The crystal appears to be some kind of yellowed plastic, which is odd- I think it was replaced at some point to possibly protect it or something. If I had to guess, it's from the mid-19th century, given that it has no keyless works and that it says "Anchor Escapement" in French. It looks to be about 18 ligne, and the case fob is positioned in the upper right corner. The face is missing the dial, the hands, and a couple of the wheels that drive the hands- I think. But the movement itself seems to be in excellent shape. The serial number on the movement matches the number on the case- it's stamped on the movement and on the case in two places. I haven't started any disassembly yet, but I'm wondering if anyone can give me some idea of what kind of movement it is, and where I might look to see what parts are missing from the face. i may even have a dial that would fit it. It's in good enough shape that I think I could get it running, assuming I could find the missing parts. Any insights are vastly appreciated and thank you! Addendum: The inside of the case has some *very* tiny scratched numbers and letters in it, but I am having an extremely hard time seeing what they are. Like "N 99" and "No192X", They were clearly done with some kind of sharp stylus and maybe they mean when it was serviced or by who? Addendum the second: At least one of the scratches seems to say "N1921X" or maybe "W1921X". Serviced in 1921? And the inside lid of the case has the letters R H with a star between them, and a very tiny mark that says "ARGENT" in a u-shape.
    • I’ve watched every video I can find on YouTube. Some of the info is contradictory and none mention  the effect on amplitude or spring coil spacing which I observed. I was hoping someone here is a Seiko expert and knows these inside out.   
×
×
  • Create New...