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Posted
17 hours ago, canthus said:

Greases are another matter though, as they are a mixture of an 'oil' and a 'soap', and it is more likely that the reactions of the soaps that can cause problems.

That's interesting!

Posted

Hello friends,

here's an update on this "interesting" barrel.

First, a bit off topic, my technique of applying breaking grease (I have 8217). I apply a dot, then smear it gently in the direction where the bridle will slip. Rather than ending up with a couple of dots, I rather have a thin film all around. I see the risk that inserting the mainspring from the retaining ring would actually push down the dots to the bottom of the barrel and away from the wall. This risk is reduced when the breaking grease is already thinly spread out along the wall.

Anyways, more a side-note..

20240101_053539.thumb.JPG.5bbac8a25f84f4195677cec49493a418.JPG

20240101_053621.thumb.JPG.0f2c631a1881e73f37ee5344c6b034a7.JPG

 

Now back to the main topic.

After inserting the mainspring and arbor, I use the basic barrel closing tool to click on the lid. As a matter of precaution, I use the tool upside down: I put the barrel on the flat bottom of the tool and use the concave side to push down the lid. I'm thinking that it may ever so slightly compress the lid (like inserting an acrylic crystal into a bezel with a press). May not do anything, but felt smart 😉

20240101_055206.thumb.JPG.be2371e243073bc83daa1447a7f33c5c.JPG

 

Once the barrel is closed without any problems, I burnish the edge of the barrel wall towards the lid again. You can see the process in the two pictures. No image of the final product, but I tell you: it looks nice.

20240101_055450.thumb.JPG.03644d3ff92c7a0d7717cf7d3b8d14c6.JPG20240101_055437.thumb.JPG.436d015ffa09ddebe7541b6fe638f8c4.JPG

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