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Posted

Just jumped into watchmaking tho been a watch collector for awhile. My other hobby is prewar pinball which is mostly mechanical as well.

https://www.historyofpinball.org 

There are some similarities between the hobbies especially with the cleaning and restoration.

I've really enjoyed working on early american pocketwatches and look forward to learning more.

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Posted

Thank you for your introduction and welcome to this friendly forum.

We all look forward to your contributions and continued involvement. 

Those pinball machines look wonderful. What is the oldest one you have. Where do you pick them up, what sort of price do you pay and what would each one be worth.  

  • Like 1
Posted
12 hours ago, oldhippy said:

Thank you for your introduction and welcome to this friendly forum.

We all look forward to your contributions and continued involvement. 

Those pinball machines look wonderful. What is the oldest one you have. Where do you pick them up, what sort of price do you pay and what would each one be worth.  

Oldest i have is 1931  Which is when modern pinball started.  Ive picked them up all over in the US and had them shipped over from the UK as well. 

I like projects so im normally in the 200-800 US dollar range when i buy,

After repair and restoration they are worth anywhere up to 20k or more.   In the above pics the pricing is


1932 JuggleBall 1200$

1934 Worlds Series 3500$  (This game was sent to england with a Amusement park theme as Pleasure Island as Rockola didnt think that american baseball would go  over well)

1933 Jigsaw $4000

Heres an example of the mech under the worlds series.   The  rachet get pushed back when you load a ball. 

The spring holds the tension  and the actuator in home plate releases the wheel to spin against the second gear to spin the bases.

The Star gear determines if the wheel will spin for a single double triple or homerun.

 

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  • Like 2
Posted

This is the latest.  It's a 1936 Rockola Alamo.  It is a payout machine and has a slot machine payout device.  I'll post the payout mech pics.  Very clockwork like.

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Posted
7 hours ago, oldhippy said:

Are you going to restore it? 

Oh yes. This one is going to get the full treatment.  I. Hoping to have it playable for Texas Pinball Festival  for 2026

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    • Did you watch the whole video? Once Alex has set the stud, he first corrects the best error, then checks that the hairspring coils are breathing concentrically, then turns the stud to centre the hairspring between the open regulator pins.  He then checks that the regulator can traverse the terminal curve without disturbing the hairspring. A correction is needed, which he performs.  He then reinstalls the balance and re-centres the hairspring between the regulator pins, and verifies that the regulator traverses the terminal curve without disturbing the hairspring.  Finally, he demonstrates how to close the gap between pins.  He then recaps the whole process, fleshing out more detail. If you follow this process, you have correctly set up the regulator pins, and are ready to set the rate of the watch.  If you are interested in learning more about the effects of the regulator pin spacing on positional rates etc, you can read any literature regarding regulator pins. The etachron system makes adjusting beat, centering the hairspring between the regulator pins and adjusting the gap between the pins very convenient, but the same rules that apply to old style regulator pins apply to the etachron system.  This video explains the basics :    I hope that helps, Mark
    • Some photos of the angles you are talking about, and the changes you are seeing to coil spacing etc. would be really useful. Part of your problem could be that you are closing the pins too far and pinching the hairspring. Adjusting the pin separation should not affect amplitude. Nor should it change the coil separation.
    • Did you try it on a Rolex ref. 16600 specifically? Congrats on the nice condition of the movement in your watch. Even so, remember to check the rotor play or those marks around the main plate may start to build up.
    • Here is a method described in the watch repair book of Mark W. Wiles. Don‘t hammer, just tap very gently!
    • Alex mentions the coils below the stud should remain the same as you move the regulator block along the terminal curve.  Mine do that. What he doesn’t discuss and is used in the other video is how the regulator block is used to adjust rate and positional error.  He also doesn’t mention how opening and closing the pins could and in my case does, alter amplitude  In Alex’s video once he sets the stud he never adjusts the regulator pins yet every new movement I get have the pins signing closed. 
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