Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

I was an avid user of the Ranfft database but, with the death of Dr. Ranfft that is now a lost treasure. The scraped DB is average at best and the owner doesn’t reply to emails requesting membership in order to help curate the content, oh well.

I have this pocket watch and the only clue I can see is that it was Swiss made. There is no serial number and I can’t see a maker’s stamp. I’ve not started disassembly yet, so there might be something dial side. If I find anything I’ll add it here.

it might be just hope but I’ve seen similar looking Omega movements but they usually have the bridge signed so I’m not holding out for that.

In the meantime, any ideas welcome!

IMG_2662.jpeg

IMG_2663.jpeg

Edited by ScrewDropper
Posted
11 minutes ago, ScrewDropper said:

I was an avid user of the Ranfft database but, with the death of Dr. Ranfft that is now a lost treasure. The scraped DB is average at best and the owner doesn’t reply to emails requesting membership in order to help curate the content, oh well.

I have this pocket watch and the only clue I can see is that it was Swiss made. There is no serial number and I can’t see a maker’s stamp. I’ve not started disassembly yet, so there might be something dial side. If I find anything I’ll add it here.

it might be just hope but I’ve seen similar looking Omega movements but they usually have the bridge signed so I’m not holding out for that.

In the meantime, any ideas welcome!

IMG_2662.jpeg

IMG_2663.jpeg

Escapement and balance designs can be good indicators

Keyless works ID is the usual method if the movement is within a set time period

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, Neverenoughwatches said:

Escapement and balance designs can be good indicators

Keyless works ID is the usual method if the movement is within a set time periodn both the fron and back of the watch

I have added some photos. I believe those measurements make it s14. There is a lip on the base plate and a dust cover, as can be seen in the photos, which is reminiscent of US watches. The winding is push in for time set which is the reverse of many US movements. There is a number on the dial side, 120, and that is all I can see. It appears to be a higher end movement, having 17 jewels and Guilloche engraving on both the front and back of the movement. Hope that helps

 

IMG_2665.jpeg

IMG_2667.jpeg

IMG_2668.jpeg

 

Some further details. Underneath the barrel bridge was the marque G.P.CIE where IE is underscored with a bar. There is also one less jewel than I thought. The dial side bearing for the center wheel is not jeweled and looks to have been at least one of the reasons for the watch not running. The center wheel staff is also badly scored and there’s signs of rust around the brass bearing (from the staff). Looks like I have my work cut out

IMG_2669.jpeg

IMG_2670.jpeg

IMG_2671.jpeg

Edited by ScrewDropper
Posted
7 hours ago, ScrewDropper said:

 

IMG_2665.jpeg

IMG_2667.jpeg

IMG_2668.jpeg

 

Some further details. Underneath the barrel bridge was the marque G.P.CIE where IE is underscored with a bar. There is also one less jewel than I thought. The dial side bearing for the center wheel is not jeweled and looks to have been at least one of the reasons for the watch not running. The center wheel staff is also badly scored and there’s signs of rust around the brass bearing (from the staff). Looks like I have my work cut out

IMG_2669.jpeg

IMG_2670.jpeg

IMG_2671.jpeg

Girard Perregaux 

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Posted

Yep, I think @Neverenoughwatches nailed it.  Girard Perregaux & Cie [...and company].  One of my favorite makers.  Constantin Girard and Marie Perregaux were a husband and wife team!  Because I work alongside my wife at my day job, and have for many years, I understand the attraction and admire them.

  • Like 1
Posted
16 hours ago, Neverenoughwatches said:

Girard Perregaux 

That was the conclusion I came to when I saw the marque. The thing is, what caliber? I’m going to need a centre wheel at least and I can’t find a match, although the fact it has been narrowed down to a GP is making life a lot easier 

Posted
3 hours ago, KarlvonKoln said:

Yep, I think @Neverenoughwatches nailed it.  Girard Perregaux & Cie [...and company].  One of my favorite makers.  Constantin Girard and Marie Perregaux were a husband and wife team!  Because I work alongside my wife at my day job, and have for many years, I understand the attraction and admire them.

A worrhy piece of information and approach for combining work and marriage Karl. My mother used to tell me how to determine if you had found the right woman " wallpaper a room together before commitment and if you can manage to do it successfully in short time and without argument then she's the one " . Maybe i should have listened, when me and my  missus do it, we need to buy extra rolls, it takes us ages and then we dont talk for days afterwards 🤣.

4 hours ago, ScrewDropper said:

That was the conclusion I came to when I saw the marque. The thing is, what caliber? I’m going to need a centre wheel at least and I can’t find a match, although the fact it has been narrowed down to a GP is making life a lot easier 

Get those keyless parts laid out so we can all have a skeg.

  • Like 2

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Alex mentions the coils below the stud should remain the same as you move the regulator block along the terminal curve.  Mine do that. What he doesn’t discuss and is used in the other video is how the regulator block is used to adjust rate and positional error.  He also doesn’t mention how opening and closing the pins could and in my case does, alter amplitude  In Alex’s video once he sets the stud he never adjusts the regulator pins yet every new movement I get have the pins signing closed. 
    • The video I linked above does mention the spacing of the hairspring coils, and the importance of the regulator being able to move through its full range without distorting the hairspring - the terminal curve of the hairspring must be concentric with the regulator pins throughout the regulator’s range.  If you meticulously follow every step in this video, the regulator system should behave as intended, regardless of the brand of the movement.  Best Regards, Mark
    • Hi friends! My mother got a bunch of old watches from a horologist who was retiring, and he subsequently passed away. It's been in her studio for years, and she showed it to me today and I just fell in love with it. Sadly, I don't know a darn thing about it yet. It's quite old, or at least seems to be. It has two winding arbors, but the key is missing. The crystal appears to be some kind of yellowed plastic, which is odd- I think it was replaced at some point to possibly protect it or something. If I had to guess, it's from the mid-19th century, given that it has no keyless works and that it says "Anchor Escapement" in French. It looks to be about 18 ligne, and the case fob is positioned in the upper right corner. The face is missing the dial, the hands, and a couple of the wheels that drive the hands- I think. But the movement itself seems to be in excellent shape. The serial number on the movement matches the number on the case- it's stamped on the movement and on the case in two places. I haven't started any disassembly yet, but I'm wondering if anyone can give me some idea of what kind of movement it is, and where I might look to see what parts are missing from the face. i may even have a dial that would fit it. It's in good enough shape that I think I could get it running, assuming I could find the missing parts. Any insights are vastly appreciated and thank you! Addendum: The inside of the case has some *very* tiny scratched numbers and letters in it, but I am having an extremely hard time seeing what they are. Like "N 99" and "No192X", They were clearly done with some kind of sharp stylus and maybe they mean when it was serviced or by who? Addendum the second: At least one of the scratches seems to say "N1921X" or maybe "W1921X". Serviced in 1921? And the inside lid of the case has the letters R H with a star between them, and a very tiny mark that says "ARGENT" in a u-shape.
    • I’ve watched every video I can find on YouTube. Some of the info is contradictory and none mention  the effect on amplitude or spring coil spacing which I observed. I was hoping someone here is a Seiko expert and knows these inside out.   
    • This video explains how to set up and adjust the etachron regulator :   I hope that helps, Mark
×
×
  • Create New...