Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi

This is the watch I was talking about in my introduction post. It was my Great Granny's watch and I'm going to clean the watch and then find a new winder to replace the missing one. My problem is I cannot get the movement out. I managed to remove the back but I'm now stuck.  How do I remove the movement ? There is a broken screw where the head came off when I tried to unscrew it. The winder is missing and there is a lot of rust. I have some Isopropyl to clean it. I have a watch a little repair kit.  What should I use to  remove the rust? I can see where to remove the strap so I should be able to do that to clean it. 

P1010289.jpeg

P1010294.jpeg

P1010295.jpeg

P1010296.jpeg

P1010293.jpeg

P1010290.jpeg

Posted

I think the movement comes out from the front, so the bezel needs to be removed. I am sorry to say but i think this will be very difficult for a beginner. if you can disassemble the movement, you may find the rust has done extensive damage. I think the part you are asking if it looks right is a dial screw. I can't tell from the photos but is the hairspring in tact?

Posted

This will probably come out the top side, you have to remove the bezel holding the glass first. This is a cylinder escapement watch, and given the rust evident on the screws and such, probably not in the best condition. It would be a good idea to find another watch to work on to learn the ropes a bit before going further with this one. The missing winding crown already is an issue- can't tell from the photo but it looks as though the winding stem may be missing, or broken off (or rusted to bits); you almost certainly would have to make or have made a stem for this.

Posted
25 minutes ago, RichardHarris123 said:

I think the movement comes out from the front, so the bezel needs to be removed. I am sorry to say but i think this will be very difficult for a beginner. if you can disassemble the movement, you may find the rust has done extensive damage. I think the part you are asking if it looks right is a dial screw. I can't tell from the photos but is the hairspring in tact?

Hi

yes I think the hairspring is intact

 

Posted
2 hours ago, Deebee2024 said:

Hi

This is the watch I was talking about in my introduction post. It was my Great Granny's watch and I'm going to clean the watch and then find a new winder to replace the missing one. My problem is I cannot get the movement out. I managed to remove the back but I'm now stuck.  How do I remove the movement ? There is a broken screw where the head came off when I tried to unscrew it. The winder is missing and there is a lot of rust. I have some Isopropyl to clean it. I have a watch a little repair kit.  What should I use to  remove the rust? I can see where to remove the strap so I should be able to do that to clean it. 

P1010289.jpeg

P1010294.jpeg

P1010295.jpeg

P1010296.jpeg

P1010293.jpeg

P1010290.jpeg

1914 then lol

2 hours ago, Deebee2024 said:

Hi

This is the watch I was talking about in my introduction post. It was my Great Granny's watch and I'm going to clean the watch and then find a new winder to replace the missing one. My problem is I cannot get the movement out. I managed to remove the back but I'm now stuck.  How do I remove the movement ? There is a broken screw where the head came off when I tried to unscrew it. The winder is missing and there is a lot of rust. I have some Isopropyl to clean it. I have a watch a little repair kit.  What should I use to  remove the rust? I can see where to remove the strap so I should be able to do that to clean it. 

P1010289.jpeg

P1010294.jpeg

P1010295.jpeg

P1010296.jpeg

P1010293.jpeg

P1010290.jpeg

This is a very difficult old watch for a beginner to tackle,  the case screws suggest it comes out from the front so the broken one is not going to prevent the movement from coming out now that it is broken.  The screw that you point to is a dial foot screw that only needs half a turn to release the dial foot from the screw's sharp shoulder that cuts into the foot. But honestly i would bag it up for another time until you are ready. If you lose anything from this while taking it apart and you almost certainly will, you may well struggle to find a replacement, seriously this is too sentimental to mess with just yet. Beginners perception of what is involved can be way way off what is reality.

Posted

Hi Everyone

I am not going to attempt to fix the movement. I want to remove it so I can clean the face. I will then see if the watch/movement can be repaired by a watch expert. If not I'm going to locate a new movement. I just wanted to clean the face my self and have the knowledge to remove the movement.

Thanks 

Posted

@Deebee2024 I would advise not trying to clean the dial unless you are 100% sure it is fired enamel. Any other finish is likely to be severely damaged with any technique unless you’re extremely proficient doing dial restoration and really know what you are doing.

 

Tom

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Alex mentions the coils below the stud should remain the same as you move the regulator block along the terminal curve.  Mine do that. What he doesn’t discuss and is used in the other video is how the regulator block is used to adjust rate and positional error.  He also doesn’t mention how opening and closing the pins could and in my case does, alter amplitude  In Alex’s video once he sets the stud he never adjusts the regulator pins yet every new movement I get have the pins signing closed. 
    • The video I linked above does mention the spacing of the hairspring coils, and the importance of the regulator being able to move through its full range without distorting the hairspring - the terminal curve of the hairspring must be concentric with the regulator pins throughout the regulator’s range.  If you meticulously follow every step in this video, the regulator system should behave as intended, regardless of the brand of the movement.  Best Regards, Mark
    • Hi friends! My mother got a bunch of old watches from a horologist who was retiring, and he subsequently passed away. It's been in her studio for years, and she showed it to me today and I just fell in love with it. Sadly, I don't know a darn thing about it yet. It's quite old, or at least seems to be. It has two winding arbors, but the key is missing. The crystal appears to be some kind of yellowed plastic, which is odd- I think it was replaced at some point to possibly protect it or something. If I had to guess, it's from the mid-19th century, given that it has no keyless works and that it says "Anchor Escapement" in French. It looks to be about 18 ligne, and the case fob is positioned in the upper right corner. The face is missing the dial, the hands, and a couple of the wheels that drive the hands- I think. But the movement itself seems to be in excellent shape. The serial number on the movement matches the number on the case- it's stamped on the movement and on the case in two places. I haven't started any disassembly yet, but I'm wondering if anyone can give me some idea of what kind of movement it is, and where I might look to see what parts are missing from the face. i may even have a dial that would fit it. It's in good enough shape that I think I could get it running, assuming I could find the missing parts. Any insights are vastly appreciated and thank you! Addendum: The inside of the case has some *very* tiny scratched numbers and letters in it, but I am having an extremely hard time seeing what they are. Like "N 99" and "No192X", They were clearly done with some kind of sharp stylus and maybe they mean when it was serviced or by who? Addendum the second: At least one of the scratches seems to say "N1921X" or maybe "W1921X". Serviced in 1921? And the inside lid of the case has the letters R H with a star between them, and a very tiny mark that says "ARGENT" in a u-shape.
    • I’ve watched every video I can find on YouTube. Some of the info is contradictory and none mention  the effect on amplitude or spring coil spacing which I observed. I was hoping someone here is a Seiko expert and knows these inside out.   
    • This video explains how to set up and adjust the etachron regulator :   I hope that helps, Mark
×
×
  • Create New...