Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I have an Oris BC3 that I have successfully serviced and now I need to get the thing “water resistant” again.

I tightened the caseback down with a bench mount tool but the o ring came squishing out the side.

New I rings in order from cousins, but what is the rule of thumb for tightening these things?

Posted

Here are pics. Obviously I didnt measure the diameter of the ring like this, I measured the case. I did measure the ring thickness and width using the digital calipers.

So this is a flat ring, rubber.

The question is, when my new ones come in, how much torque should I be using to secure the casebook?

IMG_0497.jpeg

IMG_0498.jpeg

Posted

I'm curious about the answers of others, but I'd use the rubber 8-ball and go as tight as I can with it.

I think that would hit the sweet spot between tight enough and being able to open it again in the future...

Posted

Is that the same as what came out?

Can you post a photo of the case as I would have expected an O-Ring to sit in a channel for that rating.

If no channel then I'd have expected a flat ring.

image.png.8b8b667308bc3291826f54850cf38e9f.png

Posted

The force/torque of tightening has nothing to do with watertightness. You tighten the back untill it lays on the case firmly. Tightening it more would only tear the thread, but will not get the back closer to the case.  There is space for the O-ring in a groove made specially for it between the back and the case and if the size of the ring is correct and the surfaces of the case and back that form this groove are clean and smooth, then watertightness will be OK.

  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, AndyGSi said:

Is that the same as what came out?

Can you post a photo of the case as I would have expected an O-Ring to sit in a channel for that rating.

If no channel then I'd have expected a flat ring.

Yup - that is the one that come out.

 

Posted

I am really confused.

You say the case measures 35mm, yet the oring shown is 40mm.

You say it's a flat oring, yet in your photo it looks like a round oring.

  • Like 1

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Aw come on Andy, it was just a comparison between spending 30 quid and tackling a tricky piece of work. You appeared to be volunteering,  i volunteer for stuff all the time it gets me into all kinds of trouble.
    • It's not really shown here , but the blade flips over, so it faces the other way. The knob and threaded case holder then pushes the caseback seam into the blade. Once the blade starts to penetrate into it, the lever and blade are lifted , which should hopefully pop the back off. A lot of fashion style cases have very tight seams and need a sharp blade to start separating them.  Don't buy the cheaper plastic versions of this tool, the posts with the pins through for blade holder break easily if the apply extra force to blade. 
    • You will still be looking for a balance complete I’m afraid, this is the balance staff, balance wheel and hairspring in one package. Hairspring and the balance wheel are matched in the factory. Whilst we can change a balance staff the hairspring and balance wheel stay together.   Tom
    • The hairspring end has come adrift from the small terminal barrel.  I have tried to remove the taper pin to relocate it, but the task is beyond my skill set, eyes, hands and being in my 70s, probably beyond my life expectancy.  It is not too badly mangled on the end.  On the ebay offer, that really is a bit on the rich side.  I'll keep looking, maybe a good hairspring will turn up with a shot balance staff. As for time spent on knees.  I made up one of these from 3M magnetic tape and a piece of wood.  It works well for magnetic parts. Other things I have suffered with.  I found lubricants so very expensive that I bought some very small syringes and tiny needles.  I just decant a drop into my oiling pots when I start a movement and the remainder keeps really well in the syringes. Finally identifying the correct screw for the part led me to make up the board in the final pic.   Thanks for the info. Kind regards   Chris  
    • Yes that's the type @watchweasol is referring too but I don't like them as you don't get any feel to what's happening.
×
×
  • Create New...