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No- no c'mon. Who is it that said they never heard of it- a service shop or someone from a professional organization? Movements are unique but they aren't like servicing exotic cars or flying type in a specific aircraft. I've serviced three Crickets w/120 movements with my lack of professional accreditation. ust look for a shop with accredited service people.. -
By spectre6000 · Posted
I have a scrap of shearling leather I use on rare occasion (not much of a cushion user). Suede side for the movement, hair is padding. I figure in the long history of watchmaking, that is likely not at all an uncommon sort of solution. -
By spectre6000 · Posted
New. If you know of any sources for TOP grade 7750 (or SW500) and SW200-1, please share. Seriously, I made a thread for that exact purpose as part of this, because I can't find them. Low grades all day long, sure. I'm after the top grades though. I may even spring for chronometer grades if I could find them. -
@Neverenoughwatches This has already turned out to be a very valuable thread which I also believe could save us a lot of money. Thanks for starting it! 🙂👍 -
I don't think you have to worry one bit about Mark. As you say, I'm sure he knows what he is doing and why. Anyway, since he doesn't disclose the reason for oiling the clicks I will follow Rolex's recommendation. Speaking of Mark's YouTube channel I must say it's still one of the best, if not the best. I'd love to see more videos from him. From that point of view it seems safer. Actually, my question was unnecessary because you make this kind of decision when you do the work. Mark says the spring is strong and until I feel it and how tightly the cam yoke hole closes around the post on the main plate, I can't say which strategy I will consider the safest. I also saw Jon talk about this so I will likely comment more. A small reflection. Although I'm itching to get started, it's great fun to learn the parts of the movement, their name, and how they interact. It also reduces the risk of taking chances out of impatience during work if you suddenly feel unsure about something. Strangely enough, I don't feel very nervous but more excited. I suppose it's the result of soon eight years of tinkering with watches and movements. I still remember how it took me an hour to reinstall my first mainspring arbor and how happily exhausted I felt when I finally managed to get it in place. Yes, it seems trickier to get the setting lever in if we first mount the spring for the balance stop and winding bridge. As Mark states in the video, it's tricky to line up the setting lever as it needs to fit perfectly in three spots. That is, the setting lever must align with the "yoke for the setting wheel", the "groove in the stem", and the "hole in the spring for the balance stop". On most ETA movements I prefer to mount the barrel bridge first as it supports the winding and sliding pinions before the stem is inserted. Oddly enough, ETA always recommends starting with the keyless works, but obviously not Rolex. Anyway, whatever method is used, as long as you are focused, come well-prepared, and understand the function of the parts and their interaction, there should be little or no risk of damage. It feels like the oil has a very long way to go to reach the clicks, but there is no doubt that everyone agrees on how the reversers should be treated. Here are a couple of posts from @nickelsilver that further confirm how it should be done: https://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/11035-lubricants-to-use-with-rolex-3135/#comment-99375 https://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/11035-lubricants-to-use-with-rolex-3135/#comment-121949 This is a valuable tip, although I believe this is for a different Rolex calibre (not the 3135). Can you recall which one? Yes, that must be the safest way to do it! Mark uses a pair of tweezers to remove the jewel and you can see how difficult it is as the tolerance between the jewel hole and the post for the jewel on the yoke for the cam is minimal. Do you keep the cam yoke (being pressed by the spring) in situ too? I agree, in general, we can choose to do it either way but having the underside of the barrel bridge support the winding pinion and the sliding pinion while inserting the stem makes it quite a bit easier, although obviously not in the case of the Rolex 3135 calibre as pointed out by Knebo. 9010 for the keyless works!? By Omega!? Well, I must say, there's a lot to hear before your ears fall off! 😆 I guess HP 1300 could be OK if the keyless parts have been epilame treated, but why even go there when we have grease!? Lots of rubbing metal parts under high pressure. Good to know, especially as I don't have any 1000, and I will of course treat all parts recommended by Rolex with epilame. That's also good to know as I follow the same practice. Finally, thanks for all the input guys! It is more appreciated than I think you realise! 🙂👍
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