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By nevenbekriev · Posted
All the holes on the cutter holders are drilled on the lathe. The drill bit in the chuck on the spingle, the holder in place. The holes in the bolt heads are drilled after the bolts are tightened in place, the holders are mounted in order to hold the bolts perprndiculat to the drill bit. After drilling, the heads of the bolts are turned on their down side as to alow tightening of the cutter when the nut is tightened. Height position of the cutter tip is adjusted by slight turning of the bolt head by force. The cutters are preset and ready to use, and sharpenning them practically doesn't change height adjustment. -
Hopefully this doesn't raise too much ire. Very often when someone presents a timing machine result on a newly serviced watch and the amplitude is on the low side, someone will chime in right away to say something to the effect of "don't bother reading those results until you get the amplitude closer to 270, take it apart and clean again." Then I remembered watching Mark's service of a 1960's Cyma where he states "we would normally expect a vintage watch such as this one to be within the range of 180 to 220 degrees." Later after servicing and troubleshooting that movement to fix the barrel arbor bearing, it reaches somewhere around 195 degrees and he says he is much happier with that result. Ultimately it goes to about 215 (and somehow then 245 when shown on the Weishi 1000, unexplained). 200-210 is closer to what I am typically able to achieve on an older Swiss movement, even with a new mainspring and I have been working under the assumption that I need to keep doing better. But do I? Is the "270 or start again" mentality shared by most professional watchmakers or is this "180-220 is probably pretty good for a 70 year old movement" attitude okay? -
Bulova also had watches with this style case so they also sold their version of a press. These purpose-made tools are nice, but as you found out you can find other ways to push them apart and together. My advice is to be careful with the crystal on these - they have a unique side wall geometry (as shown on the patent diagram above) and are not that easy to replace. Some NOS crystals are out there, and there are some ways to bodge other crystals to work (you can search for some other threads here on WRT) but it's best to maintain what you have if it's not badly damaged. The "official" opening fixture has a wide clearance so the crystal isn't subjected to pressure when the case is popped apart, and the closing fixture very tightly conforms to the crystal so the pressure is evenly distributed during closing (see picture). -
I'm attaching the service guide and a parts list. Then if you referring to the colorful images that look like a service guide but are not. Omega went and consolidated common issues into some general working instructions but they have an issue so you don't get the have them. For instance I have a link below for a for a specific search on the cousins documentation site. All sorts of interesting things that you may want to download https://www.cousinsuk.com/document/search?SearchString=Working Then if you download the Omega documents for which to nice impressive list except that just a tiny fraction of what Omega has. In a case if you download the document look carefully at the corners of each of the pages do you see something like this? So we know exactly who downloaded the document their contact information and an exact date and time. Swatch group is very paranoid over who downloads or documents and of course cousins no longer has access the Swatch group. So if you did have access to somebody who had access the Swatch group it would not be in your best interest to post those documents publicly but some kind soul might snip images out. Then as far as servicing information only one attached is what's existence watch companies usually assume that people know how to service watches except for common things that require special instructions which is why even modern Swatch group or Omega doesn't actually have service guides the you have parts list or the general instructions that covers several calibers of special problems or things 418_Omega 1010New19-10-12.pdf 1001750927_Omega_Omega 1010 1011 1012 1020 1021 1022 1972.pdf -
I find a lot of people are clueless over how to hold things in the timing machine microphone. Then when the Chinese clone their timing machine microphone they didn't do quite as nice job as the Swiss did for instance here's a comparison between us witschi microphone and your timing machine. Even though it isn't quite as nice it still work so here's an example in a microphone just like yours of how you're supposed to hold the movements if you would like to Be able to move the regulator as it's going to a little difficult the way you're doing it Then occasionally see people holding a watch in the movement holder then put a timing machine the problem is the watch really has to make contact with the outer metal part as that's where the sensor is. It's been covered somewhere else in the group As you're not the first asked the question how to properly use it. But yes if you use a wrong you'll magnetize everything The world of lubrication and continuous bickering. I like 9010 no-brainer I guess I don't have a brain because I don't use 9010. Then you don't need the HP 1300 if you're using it on the keyless as you can use grease. Because technically if you're going to use it on the keyless you need the epilam to keep It from spreading all across the universe.
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