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By Neverenoughwatches · Posted
The rougher grades will pull score marks out, you'll end up with a thinner pivot but you would whatever you use . I think you'll find that most women would get away with that , it's their husbands that wouldn't -
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Great question! The weight appears to move freely without obstruction and appears to be winding…
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By nevenbekriev · Posted
@quantieme, I feel I need to say few things more than the others already sid here. The auto winding module is a simple thing and finding faults in it is simple thing too. But You need to know how it works and what must it's behavior be first. First - how it must work and behave when it is in normal order: You have traditional bi-directional winding module with two reverse wheels, but here in Omega the two reverse wheels are united in one, they are two reverse wheels mounted on one common pinion. Then, I have seen in some Omega movements that You have one more reverse wheel, which is mounted on the ratchet wheel. The ratchet wheel is made on two levels, with reverse function between them. This allows separate winding by the crown without bringing to motion of the auto module. I am no sure if You case is this, I have not worked with such movements long time ago, have only distant memories. You have to know how normally such auto module performs as to check and understand if there is a problem with it. When the spring is not wound, turning the rotor in any direction will slowly turn the ratchet wheel, and You will fill almost no resistance. Turning the watch will make the rotor turn the module because of the rotor mass. BUT when the spring is already wound, You will fill significant resistance when turning the rotor , and slow turning of the watch may not make the module turn, as the mass of the rotor may not overcome the resistance of the spring winding. This is the reason why some movements will not auto wind fully on winding machines. But it is important to know that in this condition (fully wound mainspring), turning of the rotor in any direction must continue turning the ratchet wheel (actually the arbor of the barrel, as there might be reverse wheel in ratchet wheel that may be out of health). Further more, a healthy module will have relatively small angular free play of the rotor. This will be about (no more than) 90 degrees. And, if You turn the rotor only to +/-180 degr., this must be enough to make the ratchet wheel turn. So, here You have the way to check the function of the winding module. No use to check it's function when the spring is unwound, as then resistance is small. Wind the mainspring fully (6 revolutions of the ratchet wheel is enough) and start turning the rotor back and forth in the limits of 180 degr angle, not making full revolutions at all. Observe what is the angle wit small resistance (the free play) and is the resistance increasing (spring is wound) within the limits of this 180 degr. oscillation. Does the ratchet wheel turn ahead? Of course, as @oldhippy said, the main reason for faults here is the double reverse wheel part. If it is out of order, usually disassembling it shows that one of the posts of the pawls inside has broke or smash. Replacing of the post (tapered steel pin needed to be pressed in place and then cut and filed to correct height) normalizes the function of the part. But, if there is reverse wheel in the ratchet wheel, it may be the reason too. -
When you say stuck movement, does the weight still rotate and wind the barrel (don't try too hard if it doesn't want to move)? It could be the fourth wheel that's moved so you may need to remove the bridge or at least loosen the screw again to re-engage. Edit Maybe best just to remove the bridge if you can and check the pivot or teeth aren't damaged.
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