Cannon pinion problem.
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That's the same set included in the 18R Deluxe Staking Set. Fortunately, you can use the reamer holder just as a normal stake.
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Are there any circular wear marks on the inside of the case back that would indicate that the rotor has been in contact with it whilst rotating? You’ll often find these marks on the case back or around the perimeter of the movement if the rotor has excessive play. The watch certainly needs cleaning and it is running very sluggishly. This could be due to nothing more than congealed and degraded lubricants, in which case a service should have it running well again. The hairspring looks to either have some coils clinging together, or have a fibre stuck on it. Clinging coils could be due to oil on the hairspring or magnetism. If the watch has been used heavily in the past, the barrel arbour is likely to have excessive sideshake. If so, this will reduce amplitude or stop the watch completely. These movements have replaceable bushings in the bridge and plate, so it is a straightforward repair to replace them if necessary. There could be other defects too, but given that the watch runs sluggishly, a decent watchmaker should certainly be able to get it running properly again without difficulty. Best Regards, Mark
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By nevenbekriev · Posted
Just to say, most of the people who still have no experience, believe that the tail stock will solve their problems with the drilling. Well, it depends on the kind of the drilling and the drilling bits type, but in case of small holes for repivoting or similar, using tail stock with lever for pressing the bit to the work can only do harm. At least, this is what I came to in my practice. -
By ScrewDropper · Posted
Do you have any photos? It would be handy to know what it looks like. When you say sleeve, do you mean the runner or is it something else? -
By ScrewDropper · Posted
I’ve bought some diamond plates, 400-2000 grit in a set. Depending on how blunt I get the graver, I’ll start between 400-800 and keep going until the face has been completely removed, ensuring the corners are even. I then do about 50-100 passes (higher as the grit level increases, through the range of grits, checking the top sides adjacent to the face for burs and removing them as necessary. Once if finished the 2000 grit, I then finish the face on an Arkansas stone. I have a relatively cheap graver holder for sharpening but it seems to do the trick. The plates are pretty cheap too. I picked them up on Amazon
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