I got a new tailstock! My drilling problem is solved

[ScrewDropper]

As discussed previously on this forum, I was having problem sourcing parts for my tailstock for drilling. I got lots of help and advice, thanks for that.

Having read the feedback and looking around, I finally found a tailstock with a slide that takes 8mm collets. It was a bit steep but, I received it today and, after a strip-down and service, it's working very nicely. I also got myself another "standard" tailstock for £40 which I was going to use for parts but I don't need them so I now have three!

Incidentally, I know that I can use the collets but I found a 8mm collet with a JT0 taper and got myself a JT0 chuck so I am very much ready to go! 

Thanks again for the advice and help.

 

[SwissSeiko]

Looks great! Im having an issue with my tail stock. The steel sleeve that takes centering pins or collets has completely seized. I havent even gotten to use it. I tried soaking in CLR, but that did nothing. Ive also tried heat. Not sure what i am to do.

[LittleWatchShop]

1 hour ago, SwissSeiko said:

Looks great! Im having an issue with my tail stock. The steel sleeve that takes centering pins or collets has completely seized. I havent even gotten to use it. I tried soaking in CLR, but that did nothing. Ive also tried heat. Not sure what i am to do.

Well, you could try Kroil.  I have some success with it.  May need to leave it for days.

[ScrewDropper]

9 hours ago, SwissSeiko said:

Looks great! Im having an issue with my tail stock. The steel sleeve that takes centering pins or collets has completely seized. I havent even gotten to use it. I tried soaking in CLR, but that did nothing. Ive also tried heat. Not sure what i am to do.

Do you have any photos? It would be handy to know what it looks like. When you say sleeve, do you mean the runner or is it something else?

[nevenbekriev]

Just to say, most of the people who still have no experience, believe that the tail stock will solve their problems with the drilling. Well, it depends on the kind of the drilling and the drilling bits type, but in case of small holes for repivoting or similar, using tail stock with lever for pressing the bit to the work can only do harm. At least, this is what I came to in my practice.

[Neverenoughwatches]

1 hour ago, nevenbekriev said:

Just to say, most of the people who still have no experience, believe that the tail stock will solve their problems with the drilling. Well, it depends on the kind of the drilling and the drilling bits type, but in case of small holes for repivoting or similar, using tail stock with lever for pressing the bit to the work can only do harm. At least, this is what I came to in my practice.

I was pleasantly surprised with my first attempt of your way of drilling Nev, free-hand with a carbide drill. I did use a pinvice to hold the drill as the knurling on the vice helped to feel what was happening and made it easier to spin the drill in and back off when needed. But i found it trouble free with a 0.3mm drill. Using a tailstock with feed lever with small bits doesn't give you that feedback to understand what is going on.

[praezis]

With the setup and drill chuck pictured I would expect a considerably wobbling drill.

Frank

Edited July 4, 2024 by praezis

[LittleWatchShop]

3 hours ago, praezis said:

With the setup and drill chuck pictured I would expect a considerably wobbling drill.

Frank

Yes, that Jacob's chuck will disappoint

[nickelsilver]

It depends on the quality of the chuck and the 8mm body it mounts to, and how well they are mated. I have used them for years, drilling holes down to 0.15mm regularly. If I'm drilling a tricky hardened steel arbor then I use a pinvice though, with a bar in the tailstock I slide up the rear of the pinvice for a little more stability.

 

(Also depends of course how well the tailstock fits the bed and its alignment)

Edited July 4, 2024 by nickelsilver

[rjenkinsgb]

On 7/3/2024 at 4:47 PM, SwissSeiko said:

The steel sleeve that takes centering pins or collets has completely seized. I havent even gotten to use it. I tried soaking in CLR, but that did nothing. Ive also tried heat. Not sure what i am to do.

A 50-50 mix of acetone and automatic transmission fluid makes a penetrating fluid that is as good or better than anything you can buy (as long as no plastic is involved).

 

[SwissSeiko]

6 hours ago, rjenkinsgb said:

A 50-50 mix of acetone and automatic transmission fluid makes a penetrating fluid that is as good or better than anything you can buy (as long as no plastic is involved).

 

I might try this. It is seriously stuck and i have tried some percussive persuasion and I was starting to mar the tailstock body. I full plan on making a new spindle for it, as this one is marred up from hammering. I dont want to have to buy an additional tailstock

[ScrewDropper]

On 7/4/2024 at 7:13 AM, Neverenoughwatches said:

I was pleasantly surprised with my first attempt of your way of drilling Nev, free-hand with a carbide drill. I did use a pinvice to hold the drill as the knurling on the vice helped to feel what was happening and made it easier to spin the drill in and back off when needed. But i found it trouble free with a 0.3mm drill. Using a tailstock with feed lever with small bits doesn't give you that feedback to understand what is going on.

I have also successfully tried free-hand drilling for smaller drills. Mainly just practice for now, in anticipation of pivot replacement. I have had a lot of success with this method but I can see it needs lot of practice to make sure the drill stays parallel to the work. Like when I first started with watches, I am spending a lot of time just practicing in order to get some confidence. 

[Neverenoughwatches]

6 minutes ago, ScrewDropper said:

I have also successfully tried free-hand drilling for smaller drills. Mainly just practice for now, in anticipation of pivot replacement. I have had a lot of success with this method but I can see it needs lot of practice to make sure the drill stays parallel to the work. Like when I first started with watches, I am spending a lot of time just practicing in order to get some confidence. 

 I pull up the tailstock and use the sleeve as a guide for the pinvice to rest inside. Its loose but keeps it in the ballpark and feel does the rest.

[Dell]

I only do clocks and this is what I use although if it’s a midget torsion clock escape wheel then I use a pin vice after finding centre.

Dell

[SwissSeiko]

On 7/6/2024 at 10:45 AM, Dell said:

I only do clocks and this is what I use although if it’s a midget torsion clock escape wheel then I use a pin vice after finding centre.

Dell

I like that tool rest pivot holder. I might need to make one. 

[Neverenoughwatches]

4 hours ago, SwissSeiko said:

I like that tool rest pivot holder. I might need to make one. 

Even better on a compound slide.

I like the adjustable pivot rest height with a spanner, cool idea Dell.

[Dell]

I thought about fitting it to compound but decided to fit it to a non tip over tool rest , I have since made a dedicated tool rest for it because I also use the solid tool rest for the saw table so now I don’t have to keep removing them.

Dell

[ScrewDropper]

On 7/5/2024 at 4:07 PM, Neverenoughwatches said:

 I pull up the tailstock and use the sleeve as a guide for the pinvice to rest inside. Its loose but keeps it in the ballpark and feel does the rest.

That’s a good tip. I might give that a try, thanks

[Neverenoughwatches]

16 hours ago, ScrewDropper said:

That’s a good tip. I might give that a try, thanks

My thoughts are -with very small diameter fixed drilling the machine and tooling accuracy has to be really good and or very adjustable to make it accurate. Drilling with carbide its such a brittle material with no flexibility, I'm sure this is were the hand drilling comes in , your hand becomes the flexible give rather than the drill. You have to bring the drill bit in at the correct angle or close to it which can be difficult when using a microscope but by using the tailstock sleeve as a guide for whatever you are holding it does get you somewhere near.