Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

You should be able to tell if part of the tube is left in the case and maybe even push/pull it out..

If you can't then I'd probably drill to 2mm and reamer the rest to get a tight fit with a 2.2 tube.

  • Like 1
Posted
48 minutes ago, AndyGSi said:

You should be able to tell if part of the tube is left in the case and maybe even push/pull it out..

If you can't then I'd probably drill to 2mm and reamer the rest to get a tight fit with a 2.2 tube.

I had a poke around when it first arrived and couldn't move anything either way - I'll have another look before the next steps... (I'll need to get that crystal out again too which wasn't as easy as expected yesterday, though I can try the syringe method...)

Thanks as always for the info - it's much appreciated. 

Posted

As far as the split stem, I think you probably require the same one that I put aside to use in a GG-W-113 with a Hamilton 2750-based military movement. Benrus generally used the male section in the crown on 2370/2750 watches, but Hamilton put it on the stem side. It's designed to be very short so the break is just outside the mainplate. I don't recall where I sourced it, but the photo shows the stem and part number information. Then you can grab a corresponding female coupling with a short unthreaded section and cut it where you need it.

 stem.thumb.jpg.a69b0c22a88c59d3ed015677d9700b44.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, Geotex said:

As far as the split stem, I think you probably require the same one that I put aside to use in a GG-W-113 with a Hamilton 2750-based military movement. Benrus generally used the male section in the crown on 2370/2750 watches, but Hamilton put it on the stem side. It's designed to be very short so the break is just outside the mainplate. I don't recall where I sourced it, but the photo shows the stem and part number information. Then you can grab a corresponding female coupling with a short unthreaded section and cut it where you need it.

 stem.thumb.jpg.a69b0c22a88c59d3ed015677d9700b44.jpg

Excellent, thanks very much for the info - I'll add that pic to my notes... Much appreciated!

 

Edit: wonder how likely it is a 2540 stem might fit the movement? Is there anywhere you can look to find stem dimensions/specs?

Edited by tIB
Posted
39 minutes ago, AndyGSi said:

One of the places those details can be found is here. https://www.windingstems.com/eta.php

image.png.d6b822789ef3a7875e89565f9a0abf7b.png

image.png.ed437a0daa83ac848d0b5d00c05a7e4a.png

I'll have a look at the Ronda Stem Catalogue and see if there's anything that matches the 2750

Amazing, thanks - while I think it's unlikely anything will match up exactly I'll do some searching on the male stems available on eBay. 

 

I should probably just buy a couple of the adapters and do a more careful job of cutting it down - I reckon that's worth a try.

 

 

Is close on most likely to be close enough to work? Theres this one: Screenshot_20240725-2048112.png.7dc00db3a94feb7525c435b02eb0eafe.png

Posted
16 minutes ago, tIB said:

I should probably just buy a couple of the adapters and do a more careful job of cutting it down - I reckon that's worth a try.

Or depending how good you are with a drill you could drill out the first few threads so it extends over the blank part of the stem.

  • Like 1
Posted
31 minutes ago, AndyGSi said:

Or depending how good you are with a drill you could drill out the first few threads so it extends over the blank part of the stem.

Think the blank bit is similar width to the stem extender, though I'm definitely not that good with a drill!

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Hoping to get back to this and hopefully sort this week - made a bit of headway with the male/female stem adapters... Or at least I did until I killed the actual stem, doh. Hoping I can get the whole make/female split stem thing sorted once the new stem arrives... 

Heading over to get the case drilled out too - I think the old tube has sheared having looked again so drilling out should sort that. 

We'll see...

Posted (edited)

Next step is to see whether I can get the new stem and adapter in place - I've got the shortest possible female adapter in place screwed into the crown, and have cut down the male adapter so it's much shorter but will still screw onto the stem...

I'll just need to see whether those reductions mean it will all fit together inside the casing - I'm not feeling too optimistic but we'll see...

Hope to find out in the morning.

 

edit: after looking at a couple of pics with the stem in place I'm more confident actually... Might have cracked it!

Edited by tIB

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • If at all possible, find a service guide for the automatic movements your work on, because the lubrication procedures may have different requirements or rely on oils you would not use in a manual wind train (in addition to the braking grease you mentioned). Some autos like older Seikos do not have a manual wind option, so the procedure of letting down the mainspring without being able to use the crown may require a screwdriver in the ratchet wheel screw and great care. Do you have an auto movement you were planning to start with?
    • I am an amateur, so there's that. I do not get fixated on amplitude, lift angles, and beat error. However, 4.8ms would bug me if it were my watch. But you must judge your own skills to appreciate the possibility of going backward. I suggest, that you button it up let your friend enjoy the watch for now. As your skills progress, come back to it and correct it. I assume that this watch has a fixed hairspring pin. Some modern watches have an adjustable pin along with adjustable regulator. These are trivial to get in beat. I own a valjoux 726 my dad gave me on my 18th birthday (a looooong time ago). I broke the ratchet wheel with an aggressive wind 4 yrs ago. I have been waiting for my skills to progress before doing a service. I am close. Your advice is well placed and I will apply it.
    • I didn’t find any anomaly to the left of the red mark…reflection? this is the balance in its pivot in the inverted assembly. i can’t see any obvious kinks  and the spring is flat as far as I can see. Either the stud screw is missing, or it’s glued in… I don’t know. I’m loathe to fiddle with it. Any further insights? Thanks!
    • Update!  I've dismantled it, cleaned all the glue off, and rebuilt and lubricated the base movement. I'll leave the chrono part for another day. It's running well - great amplitude and keeping time, but it's got a beat error of 4.8ms.    How important is it to correct this? I'm worried that the potential for making things worse having to take the hairspring off and on repeatedly to adjust this. Would anyone here accept it at that?
    • Since I've been banned from the previous discussion, apparently my language was inappropriate...for small boys. I will start another thread and act in a more decent manner for the girls and ladies of the group.  Please what will happen if the forum can't be managed by the administrator, are there provisions in place to preserve the achived member's questions and answers over the years. Please if I may ask these important questions that are important to the members please.
×
×
  • Create New...