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Hi to all from sunny (most of the time) Riyadh

LMS

By LMS
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LMS

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I've very much enjoyed Mark's courses 1-3 and am at the very start of what I hope will be a long and enjoyable watchmaking journey. 

Although it is difficult to find time between work and personal commitments, after some honing I now think I've hit the optimal balance to build my watchmaking skills of 70% Ebay/Ali Express/Cousins, 29.9% youtube/oneline courses and 0.1% playing about with watches.

I'll report back when I manage to finally get the back off the first watch I've been working on, although this may be slightly delayed as I think setting up the vintage watchmakers lathe I've bought is probably a higher priority.

I look forward to engaging with you all on the forum. 

Lee

 

LMS Member

LMS

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Thanks for the welcome. Of course I'd like to reply by saying I'm only joking, as if I'd be silly enough to buy a lathe before removing a back off a watch... Regrettably please find attached photos requested (OK maybe I'm slightly exaggerating about not taking a back off a watch, but I'm several light years off legitimately needing a lathe). 

Screenshot_20240725_123030_Chrome.jpg

Screenshot_20240725_123015_Chrome.jpg

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LMS Member

LMS

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Posted (edited)

Thanks for the welcome. Of course I'd like to reply by saying I'm only joking, as if I'd be silly enough to buy a lathe before removing a back off a watch... Regrettably please find attached photos requested (OK maybe I'm slightly exaggerating about not taking a back off a watch, but I'm several light years off legitimately needing a lathe). 

Edited by LMS
Posted in error it's a repeat post
LMS Member

LMS

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That's interesting and would be a +. I've actually focussed back on the good old 6497 (St3600) today and trialing the Elma red the Mrs bought back from Blighty.

I bought 3xSt3600s, I thought one may get ruined in early stage watchmaking practice (tick), and I'm hoping the other 2 will survive my servicing and regulating to make it in to a flieger style watch I have planned with a twist (one each for my 2 sons). 

I next have an nh35 to attack. The plan is then to move into vintage, start with scrap movements, then look to service some vintage movements in incremental level of care about them (from 1 jeweled and work my way up). 

I then have a a good stock of vintage pieces to go at. Mixture of runners and some non runners. I will again work up from a value perspective. I don't have anything too expensive at the moment (and I intend to stay well away from either my or my Mrs actual watches until there is some level of verifiable competence/confidence). 

Anyhow, that's the plan I'd be very interested if anyone has had a similar journey and thinks if this is a sound approach. 

 

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    • BobG
      Etachron regulation system

      By BobG · Posted

      I’ve been playing with a NH35 movement that which has the classic Etachron regulation system and a few balance assemblies as practice. What I’m trying to do is get comfortable with the effect both the stud and regulator pin positions have on rate and positional error. When I install a new balance assembly I install it with the assembly in place  on the cock and cock is attached to base plate. I use the back of the tweezers to push the stud into place and feel the click. However, I noticed that the angle of the stud can be adjusted and what I also noticed is that some movements have the stud carrier arm bent down a little and that changes the angle of the hairspring leaving the stud. This angle effects how the spring goes through the regulator pins and also the spacing of the coils opposite the stud. What I thought I was supposed to do is set the regulator block in the middle of the curve, open the pins, and use the stud angle to center the spring.  Then the stud is set.  Now on all the new NH movements I have seen the angle of the regulator block is about 60 degrees counter clockwise from full open. I watched a video where the author used the regulator pin adjust to adjust rate and position error. When I close down the pins I do notice that the rate increases but also the amplitude drops, the coil spacing changes and hairspring appears slight straighter between the stud and the regulator block. If I open the pins the amplitude comes back, the spring breathes a bit more between the stud and the regulator block and the rate slows.  So, a long post I know but I would really appreciate any advice on how to correctly adjust the etachron system for rate, amplitude and positional error.   
    • Neverenoughwatches
      New forum member, new learner

      By Neverenoughwatches · Posted

      Aw come on Andy, it was just a comparison between spending 30 quid and tackling a tricky piece of work. You appeared to be volunteering,  i volunteer for stuff all the time it gets me into all kinds of trouble.
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      Tissot case back removal

      By Neverenoughwatches · Posted

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    • tomh207
      New forum member, new learner

      By tomh207 · Posted

      You will still be looking for a balance complete I’m afraid, this is the balance staff, balance wheel and hairspring in one package. Hairspring and the balance wheel are matched in the factory. Whilst we can change a balance staff the hairspring and balance wheel stay together.   Tom
    • chrisG
      New forum member, new learner

      By chrisG · Posted

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