Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I have read previously that you should never use IPA to clean acrylic crystals and I filed that knowledge internally, to avoid it. 

 

While pre-cleaning some movement parts with IPA, I managed to get a healthy splash of it on clear part of a cheap mainspring barrel press. I wiped it off quickly and didn't think any more about it. About 10 minutes later I picked it up to put it away and there was a massive crack running right across its diameter and down the sides. When prodded it cleanly split into two halves. 

 

Lesson: be cautious as to where the IPA ends up. You might think it is one of the more benign chemicals that we may use but it can obviously do damage. 

IMG_20240728_155258.thumb.jpg.99b5a78ddd65434dfc1a2b3f0a5a4ad9.jpg

Posted

I would see acetone being a problem but IPA, not so sure. That looks more like a stress fracture, chemical incompatibility I would expect “melting “ of the material rather than this.

 

Tom

  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, tomh207 said:

I would see acetone being a problem but IPA, not so sure. That looks more like a stress fracture, chemical incompatibility I would expect “melting “ of the material rather than this.

 

Tom

May have had an unnoticed fracture/ flaw in its structure waiting to be further stressed. Glass has manufacturing flaws that can suddenly rupture with temperature random stress changes. Toughened glass can do it spectacularly for no apparent reason.

No reason i can think of to use any solvent when restoring an acrylic crystal when diminishing grades of wet and dry and a final polishing paste makes a good job. Maybe a good reminder to safely store away the crystal when ipa is being used.

  • Like 1
Posted

We were taught in dental school that alcohol can cause crazing of the acrylic used for dentures. But I've never seen a crazed denture in my 38 years of practice. Crazed patients... yes.

From my own personal experience, I once cleaned the acrylic lens of an LED torch with IPA and almost immediately a crack line started to form.

  • Like 1
  • Haha 1
Posted

I know for a fact that using "Locktite" on any screws or nuts in contact with acrylic causes the plastic to start cracking in that area. I've seem it on machines that have acrylic door windows & guarding.

There are definitely some solvents that affect it, though I've never noticed anything with IPA; it possibly depends on how long it's on contact?

 

Posted
On 7/28/2024 at 6:59 AM, Simeon said:

I have read previously that you should never use IPA to clean acrylic crystals and I filed that knowledge internally, to avoid it. 

As an experiment I once tried 99% IPA on an old acrylic crystal. It first went cloudy, then cracks developed.

I assume that all optical lenses are not any form of acrylic, as don't lens wipes contain IPA ?

  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, mikepilk said:

As an experiment I once tried 99% IPA on an old acrylic crystal. It first went cloudy, then cracks developed.

How long did it take until it went cloudy and cracked?

interesting, as I tend to give a mucky acrylic crystal a splash of IPA and wipe off to clean it. i've never had one crack or go weird on me.

Posted

Medical and research apparatus is often fabricated from thick sheet acrylic, and since there is usually a spray bottle of one type of alcohol or another on most lab benches, inadvertent damage often occurs.  Woe be to the undergraduate helper that compromises an expensive piece of equipment by innocently wiping it down! I've even seen "No alcohol" decals on newly-purchased items as a reminder from the manufacturer. 

Product info often states that concentrations below 30% are moderately compatible and can be used for brief cleaning exposures, but most people stock concentrations above 60% on the bench because that is where you need to be for disinfecting activity as a surface treatment. 

  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, Jon said:

How long did it take until it went cloudy and cracked?

interesting, as I tend to give a mucky acrylic crystal a splash of IPA and wipe off to clean it. i've never had one crack or go weird on me.

I think I left it for several minutes.  Like you, I will still give a swift wipe of an acrylic with a splash of IPA.

  • Like 1
Posted
On 7/28/2024 at 4:05 AM, Neverenoughwatches said:

May have had an unnoticed fracture/ flaw in its structure waiting to be further stressed. Glass has manufacturing flaws that can suddenly rupture with temperature random stress changes. Toughened glass can do it spectacularly for no apparent reason.

One night, we were bringing a pot of water to boil on our cooktop and the tempered glass portion of our vent hood shattered rather spectacularly.  Threw glass shards up to 20 ft away. Dinner was ruined and we had quite a mess to clean up.  Luckily none of us were at cooktop at the time.

I am rather surprised that IPA would have that affect on acrylic.

  • Like 1
Posted
43 minutes ago, gpraceman said:

One night, we were bringing a pot of water to boil on our cooktop and the tempered glass portion of our vent hood shattered rather spectacularly.  Threw glass shards up to 20 ft away. Dinner was ruined and we had quite a mess to clean up.  Luckily none of us were at cooktop at the time.

I am rather surprised that IPA would have that affect on acrylic.

Couldn't say regarding acrylic but if has an external flaw somewhere that is affected and the piece has internal stressed going on then i suppose its structure could be compromised.  Toughened glass is renowned for this, i once remember picking up a double glazed unit , grabbed each side  it shattered and left 2 imprints of missing glass were my hands were. The explosion can send glass hurtling everywhere, fortunately the pieces are too small to cause serious wounding but they can still cut and the glass dust can be a problem. 

Posted

I can't find any information in why IPA could shatter acrylic.  Crazing is caused by the top layer being dissolved and resetting at a non uniform rate.  I can only take an educated guess that the acrylic was already stressed. 

  • Like 2
Posted
14 hours ago, RichardHarris123 said:

I can't find any information in why IPA could shatter acrylic.  Crazing is caused by the top layer being dissolved and resetting at a non uniform rate.  I can only take an educated guess that the acrylic was already stressed. 

Almost certainly it would have been because the part was under stress to begin with. It looks like it is machined from a solid piece and it is ultimately used for pressing components together. The IPA would have just have worked on the stresses already present. 

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I’ve been playing with a NH35 movement that which has the classic Etachron regulation system and a few balance assemblies as practice. What I’m trying to do is get comfortable with the effect both the stud and regulator pin positions have on rate and positional error. When I install a new balance assembly I install it with the assembly in place  on the cock and cock is attached to base plate. I use the back of the tweezers to push the stud into place and feel the click. However, I noticed that the angle of the stud can be adjusted and what I also noticed is that some movements have the stud carrier arm bent down a little and that changes the angle of the hairspring leaving the stud. This angle effects how the spring goes through the regulator pins and also the spacing of the coils opposite the stud. What I thought I was supposed to do is set the regulator block in the middle of the curve, open the pins, and use the stud angle to center the spring.  Then the stud is set.  Now on all the new NH movements I have seen the angle of the regulator block is about 60 degrees counter clockwise from full open. I watched a video where the author used the regulator pin adjust to adjust rate and position error. When I close down the pins I do notice that the rate increases but also the amplitude drops, the coil spacing changes and hairspring appears slight straighter between the stud and the regulator block. If I open the pins the amplitude comes back, the spring breathes a bit more between the stud and the regulator block and the rate slows.  So, a long post I know but I would really appreciate any advice on how to correctly adjust the etachron system for rate, amplitude and positional error.   
    • Aw come on Andy, it was just a comparison between spending 30 quid and tackling a tricky piece of work. You appeared to be volunteering,  i volunteer for stuff all the time it gets me into all kinds of trouble.
    • It's not really shown here , but the blade flips over, so it faces the other way. The knob and threaded case holder then pushes the caseback seam into the blade. Once the blade starts to penetrate into it, the lever and blade are lifted , which should hopefully pop the back off. A lot of fashion style cases have very tight seams and need a sharp blade to start separating them.  Don't buy the cheaper plastic versions of this tool, the posts with the pins through for blade holder break easily if the apply extra force to blade. 
    • You will still be looking for a balance complete I’m afraid, this is the balance staff, balance wheel and hairspring in one package. Hairspring and the balance wheel are matched in the factory. Whilst we can change a balance staff the hairspring and balance wheel stay together.   Tom
    • The hairspring end has come adrift from the small terminal barrel.  I have tried to remove the taper pin to relocate it, but the task is beyond my skill set, eyes, hands and being in my 70s, probably beyond my life expectancy.  It is not too badly mangled on the end.  On the ebay offer, that really is a bit on the rich side.  I'll keep looking, maybe a good hairspring will turn up with a shot balance staff. As for time spent on knees.  I made up one of these from 3M magnetic tape and a piece of wood.  It works well for magnetic parts. Other things I have suffered with.  I found lubricants so very expensive that I bought some very small syringes and tiny needles.  I just decant a drop into my oiling pots when I start a movement and the remainder keeps really well in the syringes. Finally identifying the correct screw for the part led me to make up the board in the final pic.   Thanks for the info. Kind regards   Chris  
×
×
  • Create New...