Jump to content

Certina automatic movement (25-651) winds heavy after service


Recommended Posts

Good evening watch friends, I have serviced a Certina (blue ribbon) 25-651 automatic movement. After service the watch runs very nice, but winding by hand is very heavy. What can cause this problem. Thank you all in advance for any suggestions. With kind regards, Hans 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

At what point does the winding become stiff, crunchy, resistant, etc? Does it feel like this when there is no power in the movement, or after you get to half way would, full wind? How doe the mainspring feel when it slips on the barrel wall? What breaking grease did you use? Did you try what it was like to wind before the automatic module was fitted? When you fitted the keyless work, did you observe the winding pinion, clutch and yoke? Was there any sloppy movement of those parts, especially the winding pinion that may have worn a larger slot, therefore it finds it hard to engage with the crown wheel because of the movement and it feels tight and crunchy, or close to fu7ll wind the clutch slips against the winding pinion because of the slop or an underpowered yoke spring. There are many thing that could be problematic. It's best to give us some pics and a more detailed background to the movement. what was it like before it was serviced, etc?

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello, thanks for the response. I used Moebius 8217 for the barrel wall and Lubeta for the reverse wheels. The winding pinion and clutch where oké. I re-used the mainspring because it looked oké to. After three or four days in the watchwinder the watch runs nice. 

I'll try the winding without the automatic module. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 8 months later...
4 hours ago, VWatchie said:

I'm just curious (as I have V105). Would you oil just one of the protrusions or all of them? I think I see three protrusions in the picture.

I would just oil two of them opposite from each other, but that's just what I do. Some might do more.

On a side note I use V105 for rotor bearings as well and don't buy into using V106. Just more money for pretty much the same stuff.

If you don't have V105 for the bearing, a small drop of 9010 on just one of the ball bearings, unless they're ceramic bearings that don't need to get lubricated at all

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Jon said:

On a side note I use V105 for rotor bearings as well and don't buy into using V106.

This is the first time I’ve heard of that. Do you remove the rotor bearing or do you apply V105 directly to it? Because we don’t want to get V105 on the rotor itself, right!?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, VWatchie said:

This is the first time I’ve heard of that. Do you remove the rotor bearing or do you apply V105 directly to it? Because we don’t want to get V105 on the rotor itself, right!?

If it is a bolt type rotor bearing like in a modern ETA 7750 I would remove the bearing and dip it in. If it is a friction fit type, like on an old Valjoux 7750 then I use a pipette to put a very small drop on the bearing without getting on the rotor, because it will leave a bit of a waxy white mark otherwise. Try it, works a treat!

 

3 hours ago, mikepilk said:

it's usually the reverser wheels. I've had this problem, and re-cleaning the wheels has fixed it.  Or they could just be too worn

If a client brings in an automatic that hasn't been service in 8 or 9 years plus, I replace the reversing wheel(s) as standard

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, Jon said:

If a client brings in an automatic that hasn't been service in 8 or 9 years plus, I replace the reversing wheel(s) as standard

That's a sensible policy, if the wheels are available, but they are becoming hard/impossible to find.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I bought a cheapo eBay watch which I wanted to try and “restore”. The movement is a Tissot 27B-21 which runs and looks very clean. The case and dial are a different matter!  My main aim is to practice on the movement and try to get it running as well as I can. I’d like to end up with a usable watch at the end but I fear that the dial is a lost cause. It’s badly stained and scratched. One nice thing though is the old style Tissot logo which matches the logo on the inside of the case back. I know that cleaning dials is generally a non-starter for fear of making them worse; but it’s hard to imagine I could make this much worse. Does anyone have any suggestions as to how it might be worth trying to clean this?  I was also wondering if I could go drastic and strip the lacquer completely, leaving the gold hour markers and logo intact. Sorry if this is heretical talk but, for me at least, the current dial is not usable. I can’t tell if someone has had a go at cleaning already between the 8 and 9? Thanks, Bill
    • When the crystal starts to rotate you know that you are on your way. Always rotate it, just pulling it upwards rarely works unless the crystal is a slight fit. With each little nip on the clamp the rotation gets a bit easier. I have cranked down hard on the clamp sometimes and was convinced the crystal would shatter. Like most materials,you push them to their limits in one attempt and they are liable to break, but small increments of pressure allows them to acclimatise to a situation. 
    • The pictures are of the watch with the stem in setting position, and no, even at an angle, I haven't been able to discover anything.  I hadn't considered that it may have been a split and now it's solid.  I'm going to have to find some tiny pliers...
    • I thought as much but when you first read it you have wild pictures in your head. 🙂 Could these be used for the new bit? What steel is this? What does the blue pivot steel mean?
    • Hello community,    I was hoping for some Cartier watch savant 🙂 I have this Cartier Tank Americaine that seems to be from the 90's ( serviced by Cartier/Wempe in 2001) Manual winding.  Caliber ETA base 2412 17 jewels. 67X The young watchmaker at WEMPE in Germany was kind enough to actually go to the back and open it so we could get more info on it, and he took some photos.    My quest for research was due to 3 reasons, well now 4.   1: Dial didn't have Swiss made/Swiss at the bottom and service dials would have had one of those ( can't remember which) On the German service receipt it is indicated that the dial was Refinished, by Wempe or Cartier which would explain the reason why it is absent. 2: The case back, Oh god knows how much I googled lol couldn't find ANY Cartier from the 80's 90's even 2000's or any year for that matter with the same case back, the little but which holds the movement.  3: Serial number, which is indicated on the case back as well as on the service receipt as " individual number" no info online, Cartier didn't find anything in their system nor Wempe.  4: the Ref number inscribed IN the case back is 63605. Again no info whatsoever on that REF.   I was looking to sell it for my mother in law ( insert joke here lolll ) but I was confused as to why this one was different.    Any info would be great ! I am sure someone here knows stuff that both Cartier and Wempe are missing.    Cheers    
×
×
  • Create New...