Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Been awhile since I have posted anything--been crazy busy.

So, I bought this for $70 from a lady in the hood.  Missing a crystal with a broken mainspring.  My friend in Dallas had a MS so today, I serviced the watch.

I have never done one of these single plate pocket watches.  It was QUITE the challenge.  If there is a trick to getting all the wheels aligned, somebody let me know!  I did it, but it took me the better part of an hour!!!!

Anyway, it is together with a little over 1ms in BE and looks very accurate DU and DD (and over 300 deg in amplitude).

Here is a picture of the finished watch, and a picture of the movement.

Notice that the minute hand is wrong.  Lucky me, today on ebay, somebody was selling a set of 940 hands.  I won the bid at $43 total.  A little steep, but the value of the watch is greatly increased with the correct hands.

As an aside, I have been consumed with a big real estate transaction and pending move.  I bought 47 acres in Bryan TX, adjacent to 20 I bought for my son.  We will be making Bryan the center of gravity.  A cool wrinkle is that I am going to expand my watch/clock hobby there by putting a large shop on the site.  I am too cramped here.  It is a work in progress, but next year I will post pictures!!

 

Hamilton 940 1.jpg

Hamilton 940 2.jpg

  • Like 6
Posted

Very nice !

I have a 940 that is my "personal" favorite..in a display case. Yes..these full plate movements can be a challenge. To hold the pivot fork / potence in place...take a piece of the old M/S..and cut it down to about 2 inches. Then file a small notch on one end, and bend the piece in half. Slip the spring over the mainplate and adjust it as needed to get the notch to fit around the the upper pivot as it sits in the jewel. It will hold it in place as you do the assembly. Oldtimers called these Potence clips .

Randy

DSCN0521.JPG

DSCN0523.JPG

  • Like 3
Posted
1 hour ago, Randy55 said:

Very nice !

I have a 940 that is my "personal" favorite..in a display case. Yes..these full plate movements can be a challenge. To hold the pivot fork / potence in place...take a piece of the old M/S..and cut it down to about 2 inches. Then file a small notch on one end, and bend the piece in half. Slip the spring over the mainplate and adjust it as needed to get the notch to fit around the the upper pivot as it sits in the jewel. It will hold it in place as you do the assembly. Oldtimers called these Potence clips .

Randy

DSCN0521.JPG

DSCN0523.JPG

Very clever!!!

  • Like 1

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Thank you @Mark. I only became a Patreon subscriber 5 or 6 months ago, but I draw so much value here. If you come up with future contribution or support opportunities, I will be on board.
    • Hi Mike I did a ships clock a long while ago, not a Hermle though and without getting the beast in my hands to refresh my memory I can’t recall the timing.  This doesn’t help I know but will start the grey matter turning.
    • Of course it will continue Richard.
    • I have stripped and cleaned a Hermle ships clock. It was just oily, no major faults, and I reassembled it, following my photos in reverse order. The time train is fine but the strike train will not play the ships bell strike for half-past. Ships bells play a four hour sequence for the 'watches' and play double 'ding' for the hour and the double dings plus one for the half past (eg half past the second hour is 'ding-ding' 'ding-ding' 'ding'). Sounds complicated but it isn't really. The strike wheel consists of pairs of bumps (for the ding-ding) and no single bumps. There must me some mechanism on the half-past that lifts the strike lever over one of the bumps so only one ding is played. When I get to a half past, it still plays double ding. I have a feeling it is to do with the lever in front of the rack (there is a sprung attachment  on it) and the position of the wheel (to the right) with the two pins that lets that lever fall, but no matter where I place that wheel I cannot get a single ding at half past! Please can someone help with advice on positioning so I can fix this? BTW Happy Easter 🐣 
×
×
  • Create New...