Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

An encouragement to newbies, and perhaps a useful trick for veteran watchmakers

Last week I replaced an impulse jewel in a roller table for the first time. Hurray!! I feel I'm growing as a watchmaker, although still largely through making mistakes and then saying, "Well, I'm not going to try THAT technique again!" So I want to encourage my fellow newbies that one really can learn how to do these challenging maneuvers.

I puzzled for a long time over the techniques by which I would pick up a slick tiny impulse jewel measuring 0.38 mm in diameter, and place it, facing the right direction, precisely at a 90 degree angle into its tiny hole on the roller table. And how would I keep the jewel in place as I added a tiny thread of shellac to the roller table and as I heated it?

I figured I had to put the roller table securely in place on top of the heat-transfer device—what is the name of that thing?—and do all subsequent operations on that platform. I'd never be able to transfer the roller table and unsecured jewel from the workbench to the heat-transfer device without the jewel falling out and disappearing.

The bigger problem was picking up and moving the jewel. I couldn't get a good grip on it with tweezers. One of the techniques I had read in a standard textbook described getting the flat top of the jewel to adhere to the inner face of the tweezer tip, and then pinch the jewel down into the hole as the other tweezer tip is pushing up from the opposite side of the metal heating table. But that dog wouldn't hunt. The clamps holding the roller table onto the heating table prevented my having maneuvering room to do that. Besides, I couldn't hold the heating table off the work bench, maneuver two tines of the tweezers without dropping the jewel, and still get my loupe close enough to the jewel to see if it was facing the right direction.

I considered wetting the outside of the (held together) tweeter tip with water to use water's surface tension—or as my son the chemist corrects me, its dipole moment—to have the jewel adhere to the outer surface of the tweeter tip. But that presented two potential problems. One, the water would likely heap up into too large a droplet on the tweezer, and two, once the jewel had been picked up by the droplet on the outside of the tweezer, it might not easily be released from the wet tip.

So...instead of using water, I dipped the tweezer tip in acetone—nail polish remover. My idea was that the acetone would have less dipole moment than water, reducing its tendency to bead up, but still enough dipole moment to pick up the jewel. Also, acetone evaporates fairly quickly, especially when, as in this case, the ratio of surface area to volume is so high. So the adhesion of jewel to tweezer should be declining when—if!—I maneuver the jewel into place and want to separate it from the tweezer tip.

This technique didn't make the procedure EASY, but it made it DOABLE for me. The jewel is now securely and properly affixed to the roller table. (The watch still doesn't run, but that's another and sadder story.). I'll upload some before and after photos.

Then I began to wonder. Had I merely stumbled across a technique that is already well known and widely used? Or is this a new idea? Also, since I didn't actually run a controlled study, I don't really KNOW if acetone is superior to water for this arcane purpose.

So I invite the veteran watchmakers here to share their reflection on this technique, and to report the results of any experiment they are inspired to perform.

post-766-0-26916200-1446442343_thumb.jpe

post-766-0-70245400-1446442396_thumb.jpe

post-766-0-51377200-1446442453_thumb.jpe

post-766-0-14863300-1446442498_thumb.jpe

  • Like 3
Posted

Picking up tiny parts such as jewels is made easier by using really good tweezers & not gripping to tight. Also when replacing tiny shock springs I now clean in something like one-dip & then de-mag the tweezers. These methods work for me anyway.

Posted

Very well done Swordfish. Not being a veteran watchmaker, or having experience in fitting roller jewels, l'm far from qualified to pass comment on your technique. I do look forward to reading comments from some of our qualified "veterans" on the subject.

Here's a video of Mark Lovic replacing a roller Jewel. :- http://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/1228-new-video-vintage-omega-30t2-1940s-military-watch-with-broken-impulse-jewel/

  • Similar Content

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I have stripped and cleaned a Hermle ships clock. It was just oily, no major faults, and I reassembled it, following my photos in reverse order. The time train is fine but the strike train will not play the ships bell strike for half-past. Ships bells play a four hour sequence for the 'watches' and play double 'ding' for the hour and the double dings plus one for the half past (eg half past the second hour is 'ding-ding' 'ding-ding' 'ding'). Sounds complicated but it isn't really. The strike wheel consists of pairs of bumps (for the ding-ding) and no single bumps. There must me some mechanism on the half-past that lifts the strike lever over one of the bumps so only one ding is played. When I get to a half past, it still plays double ding. I have a feeling it is to do with the lever in front of the rack (there is a sprung attachment  on it) and the position of the wheel (to the right) with the two pins that lets that lever fall, but no matter where I place that wheel I cannot get a single ding at half past! Please can someone help with advice on positioning so I can fix this? BTW Happy Easter 🐣 
    • No it's not 52. I had looked at the Pocket Watch lift angles thread, which lists Elgin 6s as something really high like 62° but visually that is not at all what this watch is doing. I think 42° is more correct and that's where my machine is setup. The watch has a million problems but I have made solid progress. Impulse jewel replaced. Hairspring didn't match the balance (which also doesn't match the serial) but I got it down into range this weekend with 8 or 10 huge timing washers. Replaced the mainspring, balance and train are nice and free. At this point it is running consistently and in beat at about 160°, the third wheel has a bend that sends the timegrapher on a little roller coaster every 8 minutes or so. Remaining amplitude problems may be down to the escapement. The banking pins were way out and it didn't run at all before I started. It has one of the old brass escape wheels rather than steel, and I assume the faces its teeth are probably worn or scored in a way I can't yet fix (or see without a microscope). I know this watch is not going to run above 250° but I am going to keep trying to get above 200. But the best part about this watch? Some unscrupulous person stamped "21 JEWELS" on the train bridge sometime in the past, right on top of the Damascening. It's a 15 jewel movement.
    • I think it would rather be the blast of high current drain that would do the damage. But if used occasionally to maybe fix a mainspring or do dial feet it might be worth trying especially if the mainspring or a replacement couldn’t be found.    Tom
    • This is indeed a unique site and members including myself genuinely care about it.  All we want is the site to continue. 
    • Hello Mark,  thank you for the ad removal , like JohnR725 , I appreciate any revenue from such would be helpful.  This is the one forum which encourages conversation and social interaction and in that sense it is unique  All the others I frequent can be a little intimidating and answers some what terse some quite rude. I think on here we try to do justice to your site in keeping with your principals. In my opinion it is like no other. The contributors  behave and act like gentlemen and ladies. And long may it continue to be so.
×
×
  • Create New...