Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

I have seen people talk about treating reversers with epilame. How exactly do you do that?

 

if you soak them, let the solvent flash off and then what? Install them, wind the watch / spin the rotor manually and then take them out again and lubricate?  Use a suspended lubricant like Lubetta V105? 
 

is it worth it?

Edited by Simeon
  • Simeon changed the title to Epilame for reversers?
Posted

It's specifically used on certain Rolex reversers, where they need lubrication in certain areas, but if it makes it to other areas, they don't work correctly. For everything else, you wouldn't use epilame, but you would want to use Lubetta  V105.

  • Like 1
Posted

As @nickelsilverhas said, eplilame, which is an oleophobic agent (repels oil), is used on Rolex reversing wheels, but they are a totally different kettle of fish to other reversing wheels that you would find in an ETA movement. With the normal type of reversing wheels, such as ETA ones, you would dip the reversing wheel(s) in a small pot of Lubeta V105 and sit for one  minute, then remove and blow off any excess solvent and leave under a cover for 15 to 20 minutes until all the solvent had evaporated leaving a dry coating of lubricant. Don't put the reversing wheels on plastic when drying! So, not in a parts tray. With the Lubeta you removed the wheels from, suck back up with a pipette and back in your jar.

You can mix 9010 with a non residue solvent to produce the same thing really, but why go through that ball ache. You can also lubricate the protrusion X2 inside the reversing wheel with 9010

  • Like 2
Posted
2 hours ago, Jon said:

 Don't put the reversing wheels on plastic when drying! So, not in a parts tray.

Oops, I wasn't aware of this. I assume it's a solvent? I didn't see this in any small print 😯

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

IMG_8722C.thumb.JPG.78d149f77a5a7f0ce238592d096cbce4.JPG

I used to think that ETA Lubeta V105 could be used on any reverser wheels (except the Rolex) However, when I used it on the reversers of a Vostok 24XX movement it more or less completely stopped the automatic winding to function and they were also discoloured. I don't know why but lesson learned!

 

Edited by VWatchie
  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Posted (edited)
On 9/4/2024 at 9:29 PM, VWatchie said:

However, when I used it on the reversers of a Vostok 24XX movement it more or less completely stopped the automatic winding to function and they were also discoloured. I don't know why but lesson learned!

Very similar to this 44 jewel GP Gyromatic I serviced, which was the first high beat watch of 36000 bph in 1966. a real piece of horological history! I love the fine adjustment on the balance

This has 14 jewels in the two reversing wheels

DSC_0429.thumb.JPG.8311b98ae48b144a2319ab83e7a563a1.JPG

DSC_0480.thumb.JPG.3114ec4612b1ea7b521c771b0c6d5704.JPG

Edited by Jon
  • Like 3
  • 5 months later...
Posted
On 9/4/2024 at 10:29 PM, VWatchie said:

used to think that ETA Lubeta V105 could be used on any reverser wheels (except the Rolex) However, when I used it on the reversers of a Vostok 24XX movement it more or less completely stopped the automatic winding to function and they were also discoloured. I don't know why but lesson learned!

Wow, I didn't know that either. On the other hand I'm very new to watchrepair, so I got loads to learn anyway. I came across these reversing wheels in an alleged Rado No. 59948. Do you know how to properly lubricate those by any chance? Thank you all so much for posting your knowledge here by the way!!! 

IMG_3126.jpeg

IMG_3162.jpeg

IMG_3163.jpeg

Posted

From the bottom pic, they look similar to ETA reverser wheels. So I would use Lubeta V105, if you have some (or you can make your own mix). Or just lubricate with a tiny amount of 9010 oil as ETA show :

image.png.9996ee4bf3c98ebaf577e8e8b83237db.png

Posted
1 hour ago, mikepilk said:

From the bottom pic, they look similar to ETA reverser wheels. So I would use Lubeta V105, if you have some (or you can make your own mix). Or just lubricate with a tiny amount of 9010 oil as ETA show :

I see, thank you very much! 

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Web sites are cheap. Message board are easy. Hosting both is less than 100 usd a year and small advertising would cover most of that.  In the discord group we did some 15 min poc and threw up a couple of different message boards on a domain i host.   The real value is the data / information / hive mind While I'm a rank amateur in watch repair the information and assistance on this board is invaluable. The members on here are friendly, entertaining and a wealth of knowledge This is what needs to be preserved  --Jeff
    • The post below contains the link. If you don't already have a discord account it will take you to the registration screen.  Registration is free.   https://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/31653-mark/?do=findComment&comment=279066
    • HWGIKE#57 Valex FEF 190 15 jewels Swiss lever full service and repair This one was waiting for a balance staff replacement in my cabinet parts and case cleaned up with a new balance staff and a 4th wheel as the original 4th wheel had a broken pivot for the off center second hand. I never attempted a balance staff replacement before however I received a Bergeon Molfres (i was hunting it for about 2 years) and with the help of it I managed to remove the old staff and riveted the new one in. It also received a new MS, crystal and the hole for the MS arbor was also tightened. With the new MS now it has an acceptable performance meaning that the amplitude goes up to 280 fully wound, has an acceptable beat error and I have the two nice lines but only dial up, dial down is not as nice and I could not figure out as why. I have the two lines but the amplitude is dropping to around 230 and the lines are a bit hairy. Both dial up and dial down the lines just go up and down without seemingly any pattern. I cleaned the movement two times, and then a 3rd time pegged out the main plate and train bridge holes but made no change. Both the HS collet and the roller table was too lose on the new staff... I did not count how many times I took the balance cock off to sort out the HS collet, the roller table and the beat error, somebody before me also shortened the HS by pushing it out a bit and it seems every time somebody is messing with the end of the HS the protruding bit is most of the time twisted bent etc. This one was probably one of the most challenging repair and service. I might take the new MS out and clean it lubricate it as I just pushed the new one in to the barrel from the retaining ring. Plus started to re-read the theory of the escapement and how to analyse the graph on the timing machine: Greiner Chronografic Record manual. I am also thinking to put the watch on a 24 hour long run with the eTimer SW it once helped me to figure out what was wrong with a watch. There is an interesting part of the Greiner record manual talking about the pallets and the end shake of the balance and pallet staff. Maybe this is my issue? Who could that possibly identify? After a few years now I am still without a clue how could watchmakers make parts I can only see with my microscope or how could/can they carry out complicated services impossible to do.. real magic..... .... ..... before I sent this post while the pics were uploading I had an idea, i was browsing the possible outcomes on the timing machine I had one for magnetism..... so I demagnetized the movement and it is not hairy now.... two really nice lines 0.2 ms beat error still a bit wavy, but a lot lot better..... argh....  
    • Hi there, welcome here.  
    • yes the advertising revenue should generate money. The question is how much money? Then as far as the cost of the website goes that's relatively easy to determine? all you would have to do to grasp costs and profitability would be to go to the link below and you can actually get a website for free try it out for free I believe you get no advertising initially. They also talk about that they'll help you out they have marketing tools and some sort of paid subscription or something. So I guess were shopping for a whatever just ask them what would a maybe could use this one as an example in other words it's going to look basically identical to this is going to have advertising a paid subscriptions what's it going to cost? After all they want to sell or give us a message board like this they should bill answer the questions as they're the people who did the software for this. Yes they really said you can have a free discussion group at least to start. https://invisioncommunity.com/ I was curious about the monthly supporter thing where exactly do we find that on this message board? A quick search I'm not finding it so obviously I'm not looking in the right place?
×
×
  • Create New...